1984 husky 2100CD fuel leak

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boxerpicker

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i just bought a decent 2100CD for cheap. it rips and biggest saw ive owned but one problem.. the fuel would leak into bar oil tank. i have no idea where its coming from. i drained bar oil and took bar off, run it then turn off and oil tank is filled with gas again. it does that everytime i run it with full tank of gas. does anyone have any idea where it might be coming from? i tried looking at parts diagram and nothing that i could suspect of.
Thanks
 
i just bought a decent 2100CD for cheap. it rips and biggest saw ive owned but one problem.. the fuel would leak into bar oil tank. i have no idea where its coming from. i drained bar oil and took bar off, run it then turn off and oil tank is filled with gas again. it does that everytime i run it with full tank of gas. does anyone have any idea where it might be coming from? i tried looking at parts diagram and nothing that i could suspect of.
Thanks
I've not split the cases on mine but I'm guessing there is a devider wall between the oil and gas tank that has a bad gasket, or I saw a post on a 288 recently that had corrosion holes all over the oil tank. It was rotting from the inside out. Either would allow gas to the oil but sounds like you need to tear the saw apart to find the cause.
 
I would say the case gasket is broke/leaking between the gas and oild tanks. Gunna have to split the case. Just as well do bearings and seals at the same time.
 
Your either gonna need to find a different rear handle tank assembly or try to line the fuel tank on yours. If you line yours you gotta make sure it is clean and dry and don't plug the tank vent. There are others here with many times more knowledge on the 2100. They may have some better ideas. @Real1shepherd is one who comes to mind. He used to use one back in the day and is a wealth of knowledge on these.
 
I remember seeing a handle/ tank assy on flea bay yesterday for $60
Paint wasn't pretty but it would get you going.
 
i just bought a decent 2100CD for cheap. it rips and biggest saw ive owned but one problem.. the fuel would leak into bar oil tank. i have no idea where its coming from. i drained bar oil and took bar off, run it then turn off and oil tank is filled with gas again. it does that everytime i run it with full tank of gas. does anyone have any idea where it might be coming from? i tried looking at parts diagram and nothing that i could suspect of.
Thanks

There is a proprietary Oring at the bottom of the manual oiler as it passes through the gas tank and inserts into the oil tank. Most people/collectors who reassemble these saws forget that Oring. Gas will leak into your oil tank that way.

Kevin
 
There is a proprietary Oring at the bottom of the manual oiler as it passes through the gas tank and inserts into the oil tank. Most people/collectors who reassemble these saws forget that Oring. Gas will leak into your oil tank that way.

Kevin

I was wondering if there wasn't a simpler possibility. Thanks Kevin!
 
No problem! That Oring is the same size as some in the manual oiler. It shows that same part # in the IPL.

I have no source other than to rob from an oiler. Someone has probably found a metric match, but I haven't so far.

Kevin
 
Lots of conjecture within that thread...I've been in there. By people that never used the saw back in the day and just, well, lots of confabulation. I don't pretend to know everything about the saw, but I freely admit that. One forum member made what seemed like his life's work to document what piston and cylinder changes there were during its production.....with an attitude.

Although very similar, you can't include the 2101 when you're talking about 2100's absolutely......there were some differences. And when they start talking about "all" 2100's had this or that, they're usually off the mark on something. Some claim the direction arrrow in the piston top during one production run was supposed to point toward the intake, not the exhaust. I didn't tear those saws down when I was using them, so I can't make a call there one way or the other. I bought a dozen of them over the yrs loggin', although I don't pretend to remember changes (if any).

The 'thin ring' 2100's that are considered to be the Holy Grail of 2100's....we avoided them like the plague. The reality was you were lucky to make a season through with one. Lots of people have offered theories....like we were using oil mixes too rich and coke depostis were making the piston rings stick in their grooves. Dunno....but everyone I knew was running PowerPunch @40:1 and that's not gonna stick your rings to the piston groove.

One other tidbit....when I was loggin' in CO toward the end, this guy opened a Husky shop down the road from where I was living. We went to replace my SEM's module and there was some confusion about CD or XP. He put in a call (everything was LD in those days and EXPENSIVE) to the west coast regional rep. The rep said the XP saws were designated (at that time) to saws sold in the PNW because they provided a hotter spark for wet conditions. I offered that story to the guy above I mentioned as being the 2100/2101 P&C expert. His retort was that saw reps were the most despicable people on earth and notrious liars. So....you can see how history can be bent, made up, or distorted to anyone's likiing. Why would a rep make up a story like that....to what end?

Now as far a USING the 2100 in large scale PNW timber, the bars we used and the usual modifications...I won't back down from any do rights or naysayers.

Kevin
 
I've heard good things about Red-Kote. But if the 2100/2101 tank itself has 'delaminated'.....you're gonna have to split it, re-epoxy AND use a tank sealer.

I've done this twice with industrial grade epoxy and both times after six months or so, the tank seams started to seep again. So I think the tank sealer is a must.

Kevin
 
Proper prep is a must for the Red-Kote in and of itself. In a non-production scenario it may well last quite a long time and possibly even compensate for a lack of seam integrity if the laminate isn't too far gone. 'Course if you can snag a decent tank for 60 bux instead...
 
I went through all this with a frenzy....like there wouldn't be any more tanks and I had to have 'back-ups'. So I bought tanks in various stages of disrepair. But after two inital failures, my patience wanned. I was extremly thorough in stripping off the old factory seam epoxy, prepping the joints and leaving them clamped to cure for weeks. I don't know how Husky joined the halves exactly, but I'm betting the process was done with clinical conditions.

I've never had concrete 'cancer' in a saw and passed on many that had it. For whatever reason in my climate, I can have saws on the garage floor all yr without 'cancer'. The floor even sweats in the winter, but no cancer.

I agree...snag a non-leaker. If you want to hedge your bet, tank seal it and fuhgedaboutit.

Kevin
 

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