1st Rigging Rope, Which To Buy

[rjstamey]

I'm looking to buy my first rope that will last me for a month or two until I can buy another.
If you only had one rigging rope to use/buy, which would it be? I've been thinking about a dynamic line such as the Sterling Atlas or the Samson Dynasorb to practice and perform negative rigging with.
The Atlas seems more appealing as it has 4.1% elongation compared to the 2.1% of the Samson.
Also, what size would you go with? 1/2", 9/16", 5/8" ? I'll mostly be dealing with pines and red/white oaks in South/North Carolina.

 

[old CB]

Samson 1/2" Stable Braid. Been using it for years. For what you're doing it will suit you fine.

I got some Dynasorb years ago thinking I'd need that little bit of stretch. But it just hangs on the wall. Haven't used it in forever.

 

[CUCV]

+1 Samson 1/2" Stable Braid. In my area you can do most things with 150' but it's nice to have a 200'er too.
Sterling Atlas is also great.

 

[ATH]

removals or prunings?

1/2" - or even 3/8". We use the 3/8 more than anything, but we are all pruning and usually just need to make sure a branch is swinging clear of a house or other obstruction, so don't need more capacity. I suggest, if you have to ask this question, you shouldn't be rigging anything that needs more than 1/2" rope for a while!

 

[EchoRomeoCharlie]

If I absolutely only could have 1 rope for rigging, I would probably go with 200 feet of 5/8" Stable Braid.

Half just isn't going to do everything for me...especially negative rigging big chunks. I don't trust half negative rigging the big stems personally.


EDIT: I've never used anything dynamic. So take this for what it's worth. I've never thought I needed one.

 

[Cynfawr]

I used an old climbing line to start with. As long as you are conservative that can work just fine in the short term.
Stable braid is great be only if rigging out of blocks/pulleys/rings. You'll glaze it easily doing natural union rigging.

As long as you're not rigging huge pieces or doing big negative rigs you can get by without a huge line for a month or two.

I have 200' of 5/8" stable braid and it's the line I use the least. The weight and length of it make it cumbersome when it's overkill.
When you need it, you need it though.

I'd go with 150' of some 12 strand rig line probably. Very versatile. Add to your collection over time so you have the appropriate tool for different situations. Good luck!

 

[ATH]

...

I have 200' of 5/8" stable braid and it's the line I use the least. The weight and length of it make it cumbersome when it's overkill.
When you need it, you need it though.
...

agreed...don't know the last time I had the 5/8" line out. It is too heavy for small branches to pull down.

 

[old CB]

200' of 5/8" stable braid and it's the line I use the least. The weight and length of it make it cumbersome when it's overkill.

Yep, for most work you'll find 150' 1/2" line is plenty adequate. And the heavier line will will be a PIA to lug around. And like ATH points out, if your line is too heavy you'll be plagued with smaller limbs that won't fall readily.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Match tools to work, best to have variety;
my best general go to, long lasting is 1/2" Samson True Blue with that blue Samthane finish that seems to have some trick to it just by itself, but unfortunately don't see in other tree ropes.
Not many ropes up to full rigors of tree work, stay with arbo gear to specialized environment when can.
.
The higher tensile a line, the less elastic dampening response to same load;
or, the amount of elasticity returned is per how much of tensile strength is encroached upon.
3/4"Arboplex will give more shock than 1/2"Arboplex from 2'drop of 500# etc.
This is so true if simply double rope capacity with pulley on load, gives more shock load etc.
.
Many of my rig lines started as 1/2" lifelines.
If doing under 500# rigs and less can be fine many times.
Can have a bull rope for heavier loads too, but keep day to day wear off more expen$ive rope that is not in it's weight class anyway.
Dragging a 5/8" thru tree, rolling up 200' etc. especially can be uselessly fatiguing on person and higher dollar gear(thus also greater chance of growing legs and walking off on it's own), when are working what 3/8" 100' would be ample, cheaper gear and get more elastic response jobs. Especially if weight of load can't offset against support frictions and 75' of 3/4" hanging from tree, crew shaking it trying to get limb to fall faster or keep falling etc.
.
Now if constantly falling wood in worst direction (up) with rope with capstan, or getting out of work class of rope downward is a different story.
.
Need select fire, not machine gun approach.
Goldilocks story in everything, anything can be too much/too little or just right; always need right balance, stay in powerband and SWL of strategy and gear. Even too much SWL can give more shock!
.
i always believed in keeping fresh bag of 1/2" around just in case, never trapped into questionable rope usage, take opportunity to rotate lines downward and refresh as opportunities present. Find a win in everything besides outright loss. Plan these moves ahead on chessboard, and wait for situation to come to that point. Rope is a wearable resource as the softest resource like fanbelt, tires softer dampening links from raw rigid forces of chain.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Match tools to work, best to have variety;
my best general go to, long lasting is 1/2" Samson True Blue with that blue Samthane finish that seems to have some trick to it just by itself, but unfortunately don't see in other tree ropes.
Not many ropes up to full rigors of tree work, stay with arbo gear to specialized environment when can.
.
The higher tensile a line, the less elastic dampening response to same load;
or, the amount of elasticity returned is per how much of tensile strength is encroached upon.
3/4"Arboplex will give more shock than 1/2"Arboplex from 2'drop of 500# etc.
This is so true if simply double rope capacity with pulley on load, gives more shock load etc.
.
Many of my rig lines started as 1/2" lifelines.
If doing under 500# rigs and less can be fine many times.
Can have a bull rope for heavier loads too, but keep day to day wear off more expen$ive rope that is not in it's weight class anyway.
Dragging a 5/8" thru tree, rolling up 200' etc. especially can be uselessly fatiguing on person and higher dollar gear(thus also greater chance of growing legs and walking off on it's own), when are working what 3/8" 100' would be ample, cheaper gear and get more elastic response jobs. Especially if weight of load can't offset against support frictions and 75' of 3/4" hanging from tree, crew shaking it trying to get limb to fall faster or keep falling etc.
.
Now if constantly falling wood in worst direction (up) with rope with capstan, or getting out of work class of rope downward is a different story.
.
Need select fire, not machine gun approach.
Goldilocks story in everything, anything can be too much/too little or just right; always need right balance, stay in powerband and SWL of strategy and gear. Even too much SWL can give more shock!
.
i always believed in keeping fresh bag of 1/2" around just in case, never trapped into questionable rope usage, take opportunity to rotate lines downward and refresh as opportunities present. Find a win in everything besides outright loss. Plan these moves ahead on chessboard, and wait for situation to come to that point. Rope is a wearable resource as the softest resource like fanbelt, tires softer dampening links from raw rigid forces of chain.

The only problem I have with this post is using old lifelines for rigging. My rigging ropes are always subjected to more stress than my lifeline. If I no longer trust a lifeline, I certainly wouldn't trust it for rigging. Old lifelines are ok for tying a load down, but that is it in my eyes.

 

[ATH]

The only problem I have with this post is using old lifelines for rigging. My rigging ropes are always subjected to more stress than my lifeline. If I no longer trust a lifeline, I certainly wouldn't trust it for rigging. Old lifelines are ok for tying a load down, but that is it in my eyes.

I wouldn't hesitate to use one that still "passes" inspection for light duty rigging - almost more along the lines of "re-directing" how something goes down than really rigging.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

If i wanted a rigging line, i'd get a new lifeline many times if present lifeline long enough for target;
depends on reason/condition of lifeline downgraded; and if drooling at some new rope candy wanting to play with.
Whether want to trust 300# load to a 7k softly used line compared to rigging(depends on wear and then duty expected)...
Lifeline always in better shape than the 1/2" rigging lines being used around it?
Personally know history of lifeline better than the other ropes, and at much lighter duty; perhaps just broke in for rigging after 125# riding on it doubled over for a bit.

 

[greengreer]

9/16 is a good do it all size but we use 1/2 " more than anything else. I prefer 16 strand for most of my rigging. Durable, inexpensive, and has alot of stretch to it.
9/16 is enough for some negative rigging without being to bulky.
I have 5/8 and even 3/4 polydyne for the heavy work but honestly those are the ropes that get used the least.

 

[Jonathon Masters]

I'm looking to buy my first rope that will last me for a month or two until I can buy another.
If you only had one rigging rope to use/buy, which would it be? I've been thinking about a dynamic line such as the Sterling Atlas or the Samson Dynasorb to practice and perform negative rigging with.
The Atlas seems more appealing as it has 4.1% elongation compared to the 2.1% of the Samson.
Also, what size would you go with? 1/2", 9/16", 5/8" ? I'll mostly be dealing with pines and red/white oaks in South/North Carolina.

What area are you located in? I have a few lengths of Samson Stable Braid, probably 100', you could have to try out.