2 cycle oil warning

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Uh...lol. Actually, I was referring to the stuff on the other end of the spectrum from the maxima. I wouldn't use junk or pay more than i need to for maxima.

And as far as Echo compared to others, you need to do your research there too. Husky is turning out some not awesome stuff right now. No Auto, Saw or other manufacturer is better than another unless it's just cheapo. Everyone turns out good and bad.
 
Maxima is superior oil?
Why doesn't it meet any of the air cooled 2 stroke specs of Jaso-FC, API-TC or ISO-L-EGD?
could it be that it won't pass the test.
You also have to consider that the castor oil will separate out of the mix when the temps drop below 35 deg. A very important point for those of use who live in the northern areas.
Echo,Stihl,Husqvarna oils meet the specs. So does Mobil MX2T and Motul 600 2T.
You use the snake oil. I'll stick with oils that can meet the proper specs
 
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I use mobil 1 synthetic oil it does not smoke as much as the regular oil and it is not that expesive plus I can pick it up at my local auto zone when i ge parts or oil for my truck.
 
Actually Maxima may not carry some of the rating labels because they can't justify the cost of submitting the product to the certification agency for testing. I believe the Petroleum institute wants $75,000 to test a single product for compliance, and that's just to get the "TC" label on the jug. If they even change the dye, they must retest. Nothing yet said about Jaso or ISO label, either. Some of these specialty companies bottle up several varieties for slightly different conditions, and each has their own devoted market, one that is fairly stable and loyal, and knows what they want with or without such labels.

Another angle: some extremely high performance 2-strokes are nearing the 400 hp/liter mark while maintaining some semblance of reliability. These engines operating on the ragged edge of sanity might demand a much better lubricant than our relatively mundane chainsaws down around 1/4 of that rating. The largest number of chainsaws are sold to working men (and a few women) who need a reliable tool, able to perform well without the constant attention of a racing tuner. A few are modified to perform substantially better, but the power gains available to the experienced engine tuner should attest to the idea that the out-of-box saw is a workaday product, with more modest needs.

I have used a lot of Citgo air-cooled oil in my saws, etc, at 32:1 without any trouble. The stuff is always less than $2 a quart at the local farm store, not much more at the gas station. I run it everything from the modern Jonsereds I favor to the old Homie gear drives in my collection.
 
The list of true synthetic oils is a lot shorter then the list of oils that are advertized as synthetic oil. 95% of what you see on the shelf at the parts store that says synthetic oil is not true synthetic oil. Some people might be surprized to find out that the $4.00 a quart oil they buy for their car may not be true synthetic oil. Its best to research the oil you are interested in and make sure it is a true synthetic if synthetic is what you want to use. I would think the same can be found in 2 cycle oils, true synthetic and oil advertized as synthetic which is not a true synthetic. Research your 2 cycle oils to make sure you are getting what you want. I buy Morgan oil in bulk for my rc planes and its a true synthetic. Ive been useing it for the last year and my saw's run cooler and smoother.
 
i never stated that maxima was the best oil, it is just what i prefer and i never had any problem with it even in a air cooled engine, i also run it in my restored aircooled 1982 yamaha YZ 490 motocross bike. you people act like if you use it in a air cooled engine it will hurt it which is not true.
 
My 2 stroke equipment(including an IT465) loves MX2T, I love clean exhaust.

I'm thinking the most important thing is to pick a good oil and then stick with it. Don't keep searching until you find something that *doesn't* work.
 
I have 2 cases of mx2t so I will run that at 40 to 1 till I run out then I might keep looking or buy some of the new stuff. I just wish this stuff had dye in it I can't find any one who sells dye for oil or at least here in the states.
 
I just usually run stihl oil in my saws. I have used maxima formula k2 and super m in my 02 cr125. My local racing shop does not stock Maxima oil because he says nobody likes it. And he thinks it makes the bikes load up. My stihl dealership told me to run poulan oil in my 046 at 32:1 because it was a big saw. I said I will stick with the stihl.
 
I know of a couple of people that will not run poulan because they have had their saws lock up even when they mixed it at 32 to 1. I will use their bar oil but that is the extent that I use any of their products to. I wouldn't even use their "synthetic" oil. It is cheaper to get a quart of mx2t or amsoil oil anyway.
 
Maxima 927 is one of the WORST oils you could run in a two cycle that isnt tore down every weekend.
Echo power blend is probaly the best OEM oil. Citgo makes at and it is either identical or at least very close to their Super guard Air Cooled. Huskys oil is also pretty decent, as is stihl black bottle. However, for the price you can run one of, if not the best two cycle oil on the market for less money. If you like spending more for less, buy OEM oils.
 
Don't think the 927 is as bad as you make it out Ben. I ran it in saws for 6 months, saws were sparkling clean aside before the 6 months and after it only took a wipe with a paper towel to clean them up to the same shine. By the film left on the parts it is clear it has some good lubricating characteristics.

The 927 does separate out but in what I have found it is not until the temp drops well below 0 C/32F and I have had a mixed gas can around for a month or so with no sign of separation.

As a good part of the 927 oil goes unburned it does build up in the muffler or pipe.

I am giving some other stuff a try now, seams more of it is burned off in the combustion process.
 
927 is a castor, ester based blend. Very little if any corrosion protection and very, very dirty. It also has stayinh in suspension issues. besides a castor based oil simply isnt needed in a chainsaw, unless its a very hot race saw that is having seizure problems.
I have a pic of I believe a 066 ran on 927 that I will try to dig up. Pretty nasty.
 
The grade of gas you use is just as important. I see many of the guys where I live, using 87 octane in small engines, but if you read the owner's manual, most, if not all, tell you to use a min. of 89 octane. I use 91 octane....don't want no preignition in my saws, you won't be able to hear it and you will be killing your engine.

Could never understand why some people try to "save money" by buying the cheapest gas and oil they can find. I know a couple of people that bought $60K luxury cars that say "premium fuel only" on the gas gauge, and fill up with regular to try and recoup the cost of the car at the rate of 20 cents per gallon by buying regular gas.
 
Koa Man
Your so right about the quality of gas!
If at most you can get 3 gallons of gas through a saw in a day, at what a dollar more a day? To me, the extra performance is worth a lot more then that!
There is little doubt that the higher test pump gas needs a lot less additives to make the test then doctored cheep stuff.
 
The difference between 87 and 91 octane gas here is 20 cents per gallon. Two gallons of gas will generally last me 3 to 4 days, unless I am doing a removal, but 80% of my work is pruning.
 
3 oils that I tell every one of my customers to stay away from: AMS OIL, MAXIMA, KLOTZ. All 3 of these oils have a severe tendancy of sepperating, laying on the piston and burning in the cylinder. These oils lube the bearings great and coat very well, but the coating is the problem. These oils actually sepparate from the gas and coat the surfaces and works great if there is no direct contact with flame. Where there is direct contact with flame; it tends to burn, creating a severe carbon build up. In all 3 of these oils I have seen time and time again rings stuck and pre-ignition problems caused by carbon build up. Super Tech oil from Wally World is better than any of these. I recomend Stihl or Husqvarna oil at 40:1. I am still in the testing stages on the Mobile MX2T that Ben sent me and when I get the chance to tear down the 2 saws I will have a better idea of what it is like.
 
I have been using AMS oil for 20 years in my huskys and I have not had a single problem. I replace my saws about every 10 years. After ten years my engines are in far better shape than the rest of the saw.
 
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