Thanks Lee. The Kiekhaefer engines are nice to work with and certainly powerful. I have a few of the 11hp KB7-AY machines kicking around as well - love every one of 'em.
Regards,
Chris.
2-man saw thread
- Thread starter little possum
- Start date
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Thanks Lee. The Kiekhaefer engines are nice to work with and certainly powerful. I have a few of the 11hp KB7-AY machines kicking around as well - love every one of 'em.
Regards,
Chris.
igpoe
Addicted to ArboristSite
Anybody that believes the horsepower rating stamped on Mercury saws would even believe government officials IMHO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Much stronger..........
Igpoe
Much stronger..........
Igpoe
Anybody that believes the horsepower rating stamped on Mercury saws would even believe government officials IMHO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Much stronger..........
Igpoe
Very true Dean - I have read 'Iron Fist' and it was interesting to read about the way Kiekhaefer underquoted the output figures of their engines in order to have the best performing engines in their class. You were certainly getting more bang for your buck with Kiekhaefer.
Regards,
Chris.
Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
Needed a bigger bar...
So I just pickled this up.... It's pretty rough... But totally awesome. Time will tell if it will ever run again, no movement at the flywheel. The glove is so it doesn't get cold.... J/k. I didn't have a red flag and it stuck out the side of my hauler rack bringing it home... The only red flag I had was the glove.
So I just pickled this up.... It's pretty rough... But totally awesome. Time will tell if it will ever run again, no movement at the flywheel. The glove is so it doesn't get cold.... J/k. I didn't have a red flag and it stuck out the side of my hauler rack bringing it home... The only red flag I had was the glove.
Congratulations on picking up the big old Disston. Take your time with it and it will run again. It looks as though you are missing the odd item, but parts are around for these engines so you should be able to find replacements.
Your helper handle looks to be in good condition, and still has the side cover in place which is not that common from what I have found.
Your machine has great potential, and will make a great project.
Best of luck with it.
Chris.
McCulloch 5-49
Little possum said this might be a place to try this to. My neighbor has had a Mc 5-49 for quite awhile. He believes that the carb is the problem due to it blowing out fuel the last time he got it running. I am posting this link to my original post where I have the pics and such. It is a two man bow saw:msp_biggrin:
Shea
http://www.arboristsite.com/stickies/71126-1183.htm#post3951611
Little possum said this might be a place to try this to. My neighbor has had a Mc 5-49 for quite awhile. He believes that the carb is the problem due to it blowing out fuel the last time he got it running. I am posting this link to my original post where I have the pics and such. It is a two man bow saw:msp_biggrin:
Shea
http://www.arboristsite.com/stickies/71126-1183.htm#post3951611
huck01955
ArboristSite Guru
Very nice find :msp_thumbsup:So I just pickled this up.... It's pretty rough... But totally awesome. Time will tell if it will ever run again, no movement at the flywheel. The glove is so it doesn't get cold.... J/k. I didn't have a red flag and it stuck out the side of my hauler rack bringing it home... The only red flag I had was the glove.
It is relatively easy to remove the cover from the diaphragm, there should be a metering lever and a ball in the seat that the metering diaphragm operates. Very likely the diaphragm is stiff and not seating the ball to block the fuel flow, or perhaps the ball is gummed up and not closing properly.
Mark
Mark
Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
Thanks. I have her pretty torn down, but can't find something to take off the flywheel. What kind of puller works? I don't have any plugs that size to make one so any suggestions are welcome!
So far I need a few bits, but nothing huge. Sleeved cylinders are a plus! One biggish groove and some rust in the one, but I think I can do a light hone and fix it right up. I was under the impression these were 3 rings / piston, but I have 2 so I'm guessing that's the norm. Piston looks ok. Not unusable at least. I think the rings may even go back in if I can clean a bit of carbon from them. We shall see. This is a fun and semi challenging resto so far. Rust makes all thing take a little longer. And I have to gt that flywheel off!
I'm gonna throw pics on my thread I started on this.
Bill G
ArboristSite King
The flywheel has threads on the inside to allow the use of a flywheel puller. It is either 1 inch or 1.125" fine thread. If you do not have a puller that size then there is a not so great alternative. You can put a standard gear puller on the outside ring. Make sure you keep the jaws as fully seated as possible. Now do not put a tremendous amount of pressure on it just good steady pressure.
Apply some heat and then give the end of the puller a solid hit with a hammer. The flywheel should pop loose.
Bill
Last edited:
Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
Thanks Bill. I saw the threads, but I don't have a puller for this. I thought maybe a power steering pulley puller would work, but no dice. As for the puller, I was waiting for someone to mention if it was a bad idea before doing it. I think a plain bolt would do it wouldn't it? I could sit a ball bearing or something in the end of the crank and let the bolt push on that. I'll have to check that out. Is the crankshaft tapered at the flywheel?
I have some pretty major grooves up the cylinder on the intake side and some others exhaust side. The rings actually don't look to bad. I gave the jug I have off a quick hone and they still remain. I believe I'll put this back together the way it is before throwing new rings in a bad jug. It may still be fine and pull a decent comp #....after I pull the flywheel and other jug and the whole bottom end and find crank seals.....and a few other things
If anyone knows the ring size and/or the crank seal #s I would love to have them!
Mr. Bow Saw
Addicted to ArboristSite
I use the large bolt.
That is how I remove the flywheel on the Disston DA-211's. It don't take much and it
comes right off.
Mr. Bow Saw
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here is the Mall 2MG set up with the rare two man handles.
38 inch roller tip bar, with out the helper handle 42".
I got this saw complete and then restored it.
38 inch roller tip bar, with out the helper handle 42".
I got this saw complete and then restored it.
huck01955
ArboristSite Guru
Wow :msp_wub: very very nice Cliff:msp_thumbsup:
ozflea
Good ol' BP Zoom 25-1
Well Mr Cliff you now need to find me a set of those rear handles .................. looks cool Cliff
Bill G
ArboristSite King
Cliff,
Which large bolt are you making reference to? The 211 is a bit different but heck I am sure I am missing the obvious on the KB7
Are you saying just screw a bolt down it?
Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
That looks like it would do it. I'm just trying to verify what bolt size before running to the hardware store.
The Da-211 is 3/4" and 16 threads/inch.
Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
Thanks for the info. The da-211 is def. a smaller bolt than the kb flywheel. This one is 1.125 (i think) as bill suggested above. I tried a hitch ball stud for 1" as it was all I had that was that size. I guess I'll go to the hardware store and see what they have.
Thanks for all the help guys. Update Pics today in my thread.
paccity
Addicted to ArboristSite
there we go. i thought i better post this over here in the real mans saw thread. iel mod l.
iel mod l.
