3/8" chain on old Husky Rancher 50?

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Supply_Sergeant

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I did a search, don't know if my search-fu is bad, but I didn't find anything. I have an '82 Husky Rancher 50, runs great, has enough power for the small farm stuff I do. If I really need a bigger saw, I have a Stihl MS460. My issue is the .325 chain on the Husky. Every saw I have ever used ran 3/8" .050 plate chain, and I'd like to make this saw do the same. Is there some issue with this change I'm not seeing? I know I need to change out the sprocket, bar and of course the chain itself. Anything I'm missing?

BTW, I've lurked here for a while, great site with really knowledegable folks.
 
I did a search, don't know if my search-fu is bad, but I didn't find anything. I have an '82 Husky Rancher 50, runs great, has enough power for the small farm stuff I do. If I really need a bigger saw, I have a Stihl MS460. My issue is the .325 chain on the Husky. Every saw I have ever used ran 3/8" .050 plate chain, and I'd like to make this saw do the same. Is there some issue with this change I'm not seeing? I know I need to change out the sprocket, bar and of course the chain itself. Anything I'm missing?

BTW, I've lurked here for a while, great site with really knowledegable folks.


What you are missing is that a 50 Rancher doesn't have enough power to drive a 3/8" chain.
 
I think it would pull 3/8 if you limited bar size to 16" but those saws are much happier and cut faster with .325
 
The 50 is a good tough saw however I have always felt it was at its best with .325 chain. If you are determined to run 3\8................I reccomend a short (16") bar and let the saw work at its own pace through the wood. Bar, chain and sprocket for 3\8 are all that would be needed for the switch.
 
What you are missing is that a 50 Rancher doesn't have enough power to drive a 3/8" chain.

That would be why I'm asking the experts here. I have had several saws, used them for plenty of homeowner/farmer type stuff, but this is the first old saw I've played with, I've always used what the dealer set me up with. It does what I need it to, with the .325 chain, I guess I'm a little OCD.
 
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It looks like the consensus is to stay with the .325. In that case, what is the best chain to look for? I cut everything from eastern red cedar to black locust and sugar maple on any given day, and since this is mostly a hobby farm, I don't have a lot of time to sharpen chain. Is there something like the carbide chain on my MS460 Magnum rescue saw available? BTW, incredible response times, thanks!
 
Really, sharpening a chain goes pretty quick (and mine is the old clamp on Granburg) esp on the smaller bars. As long as you don't wait till the chain is really dull, 2-3 strokes per tooth usually does it for me. You might consider semi chisel as it seems to stay sharp a little longer.
 
That's funny, the Homelite SuperEZ at 40cc's doesn't seem to care about the 3/8 chain it pulls. I say go for it. Just keep it sharp.
 
That's funny, the Homelite SuperEZ at 40cc's doesn't seem to care about the 3/8 chain it pulls. I say go for it. Just keep it sharp.

I agree about the Homelite............. I have run one. But most of those old saws seem to have much more torque for their displacement. No doubt, 16" - 18" 3\8 is no problem on the ole EZ. Didn't they have a reed valve?
 
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Yes, absolutely stay with the .325...!!

Otherwise..you will have to replace drive sprocket..bar..and chain...Too expensive and to no advantage.

If you do..for some reason..decide to do this switch..?? - Definitely...you got to go to a 16" bar..!!!!!
:cheers:
J2F
 
Thanks for all the advice, guys. I think I'll leave well enough alone, and get a couple of loops of good chain, and learn to sharpen it.

By all means read up on sharpening and practice. A sharp chain is the best "mod" you can do to improve performance on any saw, the easiest and cheapest.
 
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