3 cut method

[Bigus Termitius]

If it tis art then I'm no doubt an abstract surrealist.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Cutting on the moving side of the works maid by primary undercut can take saw. On ground bucking, that can be either side that is sprung, heavier etc., but in tree that will be green side from trunk.

The amount of undercut that can be taken, depends on the leveraged load and wood diameter and type. The more the load, length and angle, the sooner the collapse. This kerfing is kinda a full face dutching; and ya can use that some by belling the light side a lil wider if really off balance or trying to allow some turn. This would work the compression on close harder/earlier on the heavy side. This goes to looking at both sides of the face as separate adjustmeants, not a single, generic one straight across. More able to tweak to balance of limb across itself with that imagery/model.

Deeper undercuts are better, prevent more damage (short of getting saw cut)under cut is not just the rip stop, it is also the support mechanism at close, before tearoff. The inside of cut becomes hinge pivot, the outside as it closes the support, and distance between the leveraged multiplier to the push up at close. This relieving "hinge pull" to stretch out fibres on the inside of the branch as it tears, leaves less disruption inside the cut. More leveraged support/ less leveraged load gives less internal stretch and rip of fibers stressing. Also prevents exterior ripping. You can tweak hear too, by kerfing heavy side first, light side will be the one to have more tendency to stay open anyway.. But; if i had a choice, i'd make both sides even, if any deeper the heavier side for more close force(and on back side/final cut light side cut last will give less pull to heavyside, and more sudden drop IMLHO). Remember the heavy side all ways closes harder and the far backside(lean, control side) always pulls for you; allow them to work, use them!

ANY rip of any cell vessels carrying water violates by allowing possible air embolism, collapsing cohesion. The cohesion is what allows the weak pull of transpiration to pull water up. So, any violation is immediately plugged on both sides, and water then takes a route through cell walls to another vessel and continues. The area that is routed around dies. So, if this is the parent part or worse collar, there is longer/harder sealing; which is already an 'expensive' process to tree. Even just rips in bark is a violation, because now outer layer of wood must die out to protect inner from elements, and this dead wood layer is not as breathable as bark. Same for removing leaves, the top part of soil must die out, and is more compactable/less breathable than loose leaf layer protecting soil sea. Also leaf/stick layer provides spreading out of impact/footprint as well as reducing dynamic shocks compressing soil (another fair reason for low impact limbing/roping).

Even a good final cut on the outside, might have such disruption inside to invite more chance for infection etc. A fast saw can help with cleaner cut, as well as winging to have less wood to come thru per second, to get more sudden detatch-meant. Once again the kerf wing can be deeper on the heavy side, giving more pull to light side, and more balanced and quick release sum times for better straight drop suddenly. Which of course with parachute leaves on limb is probably softest non-rigged landing

Spiking preservation/non-removals is not maximum. If you really rely your life and full time on the rope rather than the spikes; you'll Learn a LOT more about rope and it's reactions and uses innately. This can effect your rigging, climbing etc. immensely, a whole knew world. i even advocate not spiking easier removals, just for practice; and to accelerate your L-earning curves purposefully. . Of course when safety issues arise, and it is you or the tree, apologies to your friend are in order, to maintain the spirit of care. IMLHO.


Orrrrrrrrrrrr sumetin like'dat
:angrysoapbox:

 

[Nailsbeats]

Cutting on the moving side of the works maid by primary undercut can take saw. On ground bucking, that can be either side that is sprung, heavier etc., but in tree that will be green side from trunk.

The amount of undercut that can be taken, depends on the leveraged load and wood diameter and type. The more the load, length and angle, the sooner the collapse. This kerfing is kinda a full face dutching; and ya can use that some by belling the light side a lil wider if really off balance or trying to allow some turn. This would work the compression on close harder/earlier on the heavy side. This goes to looking at both sides of the face as separate adjustmeants, not a single, generic one straight across. More able to tweak to balance of limb across itself with that imagery/model.

Deeper undercuts are better, prevent more damage (short of getting saw cut)under cut is not just the rip stop, it is also the support mechanism at close, before tearoff. The inside of cut becomes hinge pivot, the outside as it closes the support, and distance between the leveraged multiplier to the push up at close. This relieving "hinge pull" to stretch out fibres on the inside of the branch as it tears, leaves less disruption inside the cut. More leveraged support/ less leveraged load gives less internal stretch and rip of fibers stressing. Also prevents exterior ripping. You can tweak hear too, by kerfing heavy side first, light side will be the one to have more tendency to stay open anyway.. But; if i had a choice, i'd make both sides even, if any deeper the heavier side for more close force(and on back side/final cut light side cut last will give less pull to heavyside, and more sudden drop IMLHO). Remember the heavy side all ways closes harder and the far backside(lean, control side) always pulls for you; allow them to work, use them!

ANY rip of any cell vessels carrying water violates by allowing possible air embolism, collapsing cohesion. The cohesion is what allows the weak pull of transpiration to pull water up. So, any violation is immediately plugged on both sides, and water then takes a route through cell walls to another vessel and continues. The area that is routed around dies. So, if this is the parent part or worse collar, there is longer/harder sealing; which is already an 'expensive' process to tree. Even just rips in bark is a violation, because now outer layer of wood must die out to protect inner from elements, and this dead wood layer is not as breathable as bark. Same for removing leaves, the top part of soil must die out, and is more compactable/less breathable than loose leaf layer protecting soil sea. Also leaf/stick layer provides spreading out of impact/footprint as well as reducing dynamic shocks compressing soil (another fair reason for low impact limbing/roping).

Even a good final cut on the outside, might have such disruption inside to invite more chance for infection etc. A fast saw can help with cleaner cut, as well as winging to have less wood to come thru per second, to get more sudden detatch-meant. Once again the kerf wing can be deeper on the heavy side, giving more pull to light side, and more balanced and quick release sum times for better straight drop suddenly. Which of course with parachute leaves on limb is probably softest non-rigged landing

Spiking preservation/non-removals is not maximum. If you really rely your life and full time on the rope rather than the spikes; you'll Learn a LOT more about rope and it's reactions and uses innately. This can effect your rigging, climbing etc. immensely, a whole knew world. i even advocate not spiking easier removals, just for practice; and to accelerate your L-earning curves purposefully. . Of course when safety issues arise, and it is you or the tree, apologies to your friend are in order, to maintain the spirit of care. IMLHO.


Orrrrrrrrrrrr sumetin like'dat
:angrysoapbox:

I think what you are trying to say is, "cutting is cutting", right? lol.

 

[Ivan H.]

Tree spider, where did you find that information,the encyclopedia?You forgot the part about cutting hollow limbs and trunks opcorn: