3 cut method

[WolverineMarine]

I was trimming some trees in my own yard this weekend (a silver maple and a black locust)and was attempting to use the 3 cut method, but I must have done something wrong, hence...why I'm asking for some guidance. I made the undercut about a foot up the branch from where I intended to make my final cut to prevent peeling, and I came back about 4-5"s from that to make my pass through cut. Now where I think I got mixed up was not making the cut farther out on the branch as opposed to closer. I still ended up peeling a little back..I feel like a bozo now knowing some of my neighbors know I trim trees on the side and my own trees look like crap.
Oh well..gotta learn the right way by doing the wrong way a few times I guess..LOL

 

[WolverineMarine]

Ok..let me try and pull my foot out of my mouth a little here..the actually job overall that I did looked great..but..from a professional stand-point, a full time arborist would look at the cut sites and say.."he should have used the 3 step method", "f:censored: ing home owner screwed that up"..or something of the sort..and I don't like like image in my head in the least bit..anways..that's ma story..and I'm sticking to it..I'll take pics if someone asks for proof..LOL

 

[Nailsbeats]

I don't even know what the "3 cut method" is. I usually only make 2 cuts on horizontal limbs, an undercut and meet it from the top if I want the piece to fall the same as it is sitting, or an undercut and cut a little bit back if I want it to tip down and release.

 

[Wortown Mick]

Undercut, top cut, pruning cut on the branch collar to remove the stub.. make it a deliberate smooth cut for pro results.

 

[WolverineMarine]

I think I know where I screwed up now..I think I made my 1st 2 cuts too far apart..they should have been a couple inches..as opposed to around a foot apart..so theres a nice little snap and release from the stub..thanks for the help guys!

 

[lxt]

A good sharp saw preferably the 200t & 1 cut is all you need, peels......put some dirt/mud on it!! utility guys do...it works!


LXT..........

 

[ATH]

the times I have had problems is when I get lazy and don't make the undercut deep enough. but yeah...don't make the second cut too far away.

 

[Rftreeman]

A good sharp saw preferably the 200t & 1 cut is all you need, peels......put some dirt/mud on it!! utility guys do...it works!


LXT..........

you guys always pick on us utility guys utilty guys are some of the best trained people out there

I think you probably didn't make the under cut deep enough is the reason why it peeled..

 

[booboo]

the times I have had problems is when I get lazy and don't make the undercut deep enough. but yeah...don't make the second cut too far away.

+1. Make the undercut deep enough that it won't peel, not so deep that the weight starts to settle on the saw, 1/3 is a pretty good rule of thumb. Make the 2nd cut just a couple of inches away. Both cuts should be pretty close to the collar so that when you make your final cut it's a pretty small piece without a lot of weight so it won't peel. Keep in mind that different wood is more prone to peeling than others and at different times of year. On a big cut it can be worth it to make a small vertical cut on either side of the branch between where you're going to snap the piece off and the collar cut to help prevent peeling, don't know what it's called, I just call them wing cuts. Same thing as you'd do to prevent fiber pulls dropping a butt, except that it's on a branch.

 

[Rftreeman]

Sounds good.

.....and from another thread:



Is this what they are teaching you when you say "utility guys are some of the best trained people out there"?

You need to make clear you're not suggesting 'spiking' residential tree trimming jobs. Or maybe you are?

I'm not suggesting anything other than the fact that spikes aren't good for the tree but they WILL NOT kill it, I think I along with many other people who learned that trade via the utility company got very good training, 20 years ago (when I was trained) spikes where the norm and I was trained to use them, later on I had the choice to learn to foot lock and did learn how to but I'm 285# now so there ain't a whole lot of foot locking going on here so if I need a tree trimmed then I call a guy who works for, guess who, yep, the utility company and he does the spike-less trims for me but I think if you read the question that goes with the answer that you quoted then you'd understand what I was talking about in that quote, a majority of the people here think that any person that works for or comes from the utility side of this industry is just a hack, well, that ain't so, what if I made cracks about certified arborist being total class room nerds and that they didn't know crap about what goes on in the field, you'd get tired of hearing it sooner or later just like I get tired of hearing it.

 

[treemandan]

I don't even know what the "3 cut method" is. I usually only make 2 cuts on horizontal limbs, an undercut and meet it from the top if I want the piece to fall the same as it is sitting, or an undercut and cut a little bit back if I want it to tip down and release.

Uhm, we are talking about pruning work here, Nails. This is not the " let's bring down the whole world at once forum".
The proper 3 point cut? Well yeah, you will have some fun with that until you realize what can happen if you use it all the time. But still, Nails, the 3 cut is the finish cut on the stub. Got to keep your chops up on the finish cut.

 

[treemandan]

A good sharp saw preferably the 200t & 1 cut is all you need, peels......put some dirt/mud on it!! utility guys do...it works!


LXT..........

Someone needs a nap.

 

[treemandan]

you guys always pick on us utility guys utilty guys are some of the best trained people out there

I think you probably didn't make the under cut deep enough is the reason why it peeled..

Keep up the good work, F-nuts. I mean that in the best way and am behind you 100%, thanks for your hard work and dedication. Wherever there is a client complaining about clearance work The Dan steps up for the defense. He says" you should've done it yo gat dam self."

 

[treemandan]

+1. Make the undercut deep enough that it won't peel, not so deep that the weight starts to settle on the saw, 1/3 is a pretty good rule of thumb. Make the 2nd cut just a couple of inches away. Both cuts should be pretty close to the collar so that when you make your final cut it's a pretty small piece without a lot of weight so it won't peel. Keep in mind that different wood is more prone to peeling than others and at different times of year. On a big cut it can be worth it to make a small vertical cut on either side of the branch between where you're going to snap the piece off and the collar cut to help prevent peeling, don't know what it's called, I just call them wing cuts. Same thing as you'd do to prevent fiber pulls dropping a butt, except that it's on a branch.

That is a real good term, " wing cuts". The Dan abides.
The Dan also says that that traditonal 3 point cut they depict in many a schoolbook is best suited for handsaw work and if you keep it up running 20's through meaty stuff with that cut plan on losing the saw OR getting your money's worth out of those cute saw lanyards.
Follow this:
So you got a 6 to 9 inch horizantal branch and you want it gone. You are in the tree hopefully tied in above and are not using a rope to lower it, you have a clear shot. It sound like a typical senerio so what is a bro to do.
I am asking you, you tell me. How is it handled and what is the outcome and why?
You are right there at the butt of the branch, it might not have to be completely horizontal and tied in above hanging on the friction hitch, its just a normal live branch attach to a mature yard tree, alls it will do is go down... What is the next step? What kind of cut do you use? Anybody? Anybody?

 

[JS Landscaping]

When you use the 3 cut method, your first under cut is roughly 1/3 of the branch diamiter, as stated before....make sure your next cut is farther out on the limb by about an inch...if you cut behind your undercut, (closer to the tree) it can defeat the purpose of the undercut, then finish with a nice clean final cut. Usually my 1st and 2nd cuts are only a foot out onto the branch, that way your final cut has doesnt have too much weight to it at all, thus preventing peeling...the softwoods are known to peel...the side or verticle cuts are called Kerf cuts out here in NY...As you progress with your skill level you can learn how to use notches to direct where your limb will fall to and how it will fall...Good Luck!

 

[WolverineMarine]

To all the senior members, MVP's, and those with the know how beyond my skill level and understanding..I want say thank you for all of your help with this thread..and all the others I seem to come up with..you guys are a testiment to the brotherhood of the love tree work..not trying to be a brown nose..or sappy..for lack of the ability to shake hands..this is as close as I can come..

 

[booboo]

"We are basically talking making horizontal 'snap cuts'."

Bingo!

Dan, the answer to your question is that this method works fine on bigger wood too. My cute little chainsaw lanyard is homemade and works just fine, thank you. Saw's been yanked out of my hands more than once, that's what the lanyard is for!

As for the kerf cuts, well, I'm in NY and I haven't heard that up here, but we're talking about the same thing, so it's all good.

 

[JS Landscaping]

Thanks for the tip TreeCo. Gonna give it a shot tomorow with the way you suggested if I have any snap cuts to make...Guess Ive been lucky and havent had the saw yanked outa my hand yet from the method I was taught.

 

[treemandan]

Wolf Man, about that Pm: same thing Treeco mentioned.

Boo-boo Not busting on the saw lanyard, if you want it YOU GOT IT, that's my motto when it comes to gear and such BUT you might want to get a breakaway lanyard for the times when it really gets deep Personally, after so many years, the sight of my 20 falling away below me is quite entertaining and I awlays like to watch them land. Sometimes they stick in the ground by the bar and are fine, sometimes they hit the concrete and exploded like a melon.
I only had saw yanked by the classic 3 point once, I didn't lose the saw but stopped using that cut. I usually just drop em or they pop out of my holding clip on my saddle if I jump to much.
Watch yourself with that classic 3 point cut. I am still looking for the idiot CA who told me to do it, he owes me a chain.

 

[TreeBot]

Glad to help. I've bent a few chains and bars in my time having saws get hung in a cut on some really big stuff.

I learned that lesson the hard way to. My first 020T got caught in a 10" 40' cotton wood limb. The limb was at 45 degrees. I really didn't want to let go of that saw when it stuck. I actually managed to hold on long enough to swing the limb down but when all the weight hit at the bottom the limb didn't let go of the saw and there was no way I was going to hold it. So it slammed into the turf from 40' up. For some reason that saw always ran a little funny after that lol.