I am working on rebuilding a 30 year old Stihl 031av chainsaw. Can someone please send me a link to a schematic of this saw? Also, I have the saw most of the way apart. I am having a problem locating the last screw to holds the gas tank and cover on. I have taken out every one I could find, but there seems to still be on around the coil area that I can't find. I hope this saw is worth rebuilding. I use to love using it back 25 years ago, but have not used it since and it won't run anymore. It is still in great condition. I just think it needs a rebuild and I don't have a lot of other stuff to do this winter while I'm stuck in the house. Anyone agree or disagree that I should spend time trying to rebuild it? Thanks.
30yr old Stihl 031AV info needed
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jcb1100
ArboristSite Lurker
031av
I'm no expert, but thanks to the experts here, I was recently able to get my 031AV of the same vintage running again. In the process, I became very good at disassembling and assembling the saw!
I think the gas tank screw you're looking for (at least the one I had trouble finding) is an allen-head screw on the clutch side, in the lower left corner (as you're looking at it), near the handle. It makes no sense that it would be there, but it is. I'm sure someone here will post a link to the parts list and/or manual. Good luck--it's a great little saw when it runs right.
I spent time cleaning 30 years of grunge off of mine, and converting it from points to electronic ignition. I cleaned and rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel line and filter, and the impulse line. My carb-to cylinder hose was okay, but they can go bad over time, too. Even with my time, parts cost, and effort, I think I spent less than an equivalent saw would have cost.
I'm no expert, but thanks to the experts here, I was recently able to get my 031AV of the same vintage running again. In the process, I became very good at disassembling and assembling the saw!
I think the gas tank screw you're looking for (at least the one I had trouble finding) is an allen-head screw on the clutch side, in the lower left corner (as you're looking at it), near the handle. It makes no sense that it would be there, but it is. I'm sure someone here will post a link to the parts list and/or manual. Good luck--it's a great little saw when it runs right.
I spent time cleaning 30 years of grunge off of mine, and converting it from points to electronic ignition. I cleaned and rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel line and filter, and the impulse line. My carb-to cylinder hose was okay, but they can go bad over time, too. Even with my time, parts cost, and effort, I think I spent less than an equivalent saw would have cost.
Thanks JCB1100
I will check for that screw tomorrow. I am also planning on converting mine to electronic. I would also like to put new rings in it. Carberator rebuild is a necessity on these old saws. Clutch is bad too. I haven't found one of those yet, but I see come people on here recommending some sites. The saw has sentimental value or I would just get rid of it. I see other people on this site buying them for 20 buck running. Ouch, that hurts.
I will check for that screw tomorrow. I am also planning on converting mine to electronic. I would also like to put new rings in it. Carberator rebuild is a necessity on these old saws. Clutch is bad too. I haven't found one of those yet, but I see come people on here recommending some sites. The saw has sentimental value or I would just get rid of it. I see other people on this site buying them for 20 buck running. Ouch, that hurts.
jcb1100
ArboristSite Lurker
031av
I've also seen strong runners go for as much as $150 to $200 on eBay lately. It's also a great source for whatever parts you might need. The seller CheapStihlParts had a bunch I needed.
FWIW, I tried a Stens Mega Fire II module but couldn't get it to spark consistently. I then went with the Stihl replacement module, mounting it on the coil. I changed the flywheel to the electronic version to avoid any potential timing problems. It runs great now. I also changed clutch springs, in case the chain-turning-at-idle problem I had was due to old, weak springs.
Do a search on electronic conversions and you'll find lots of info. I'm surprised no one else has posted yet.
Mine was sentimental also. My father gave it to me a while back. He bought it in the late 70's or early 80's, and didn't use it a lot, so it was in pretty good shape.
Good luck.
I've also seen strong runners go for as much as $150 to $200 on eBay lately. It's also a great source for whatever parts you might need. The seller CheapStihlParts had a bunch I needed.
FWIW, I tried a Stens Mega Fire II module but couldn't get it to spark consistently. I then went with the Stihl replacement module, mounting it on the coil. I changed the flywheel to the electronic version to avoid any potential timing problems. It runs great now. I also changed clutch springs, in case the chain-turning-at-idle problem I had was due to old, weak springs.
Do a search on electronic conversions and you'll find lots of info. I'm surprised no one else has posted yet.
Mine was sentimental also. My father gave it to me a while back. He bought it in the late 70's or early 80's, and didn't use it a lot, so it was in pretty good shape.
Good luck.
jcb1100
ArboristSite Lurker
BTW, you might want to post in the Chainsaw forum if you have any technical questions. :greenchainsaw:
billyjoejr
ArboristSite Guru
here is a link for the Workshop Manual and IPL
Stihl 030, 031, 032 Workshop Manual- http://www.mediafire.com/?dnwykggj3jy
scanned paper copy, so it is rough.
032 IPL- http://www.mediafire.com/?bm9m11bjnw1
Click on the blue 'Click here to start download...' link on left.
Disclaimer: The links are on my own account of a file sharing site. The Workshop Manual is made from a my paper copy. The 031/032 is obsolete in Stihls mind so their lawyers shouldn't bother me. All other Workshop Manuals of Stihl products should be asked for in the Beg for Manuals thread to keep the lawyers at bay.
Stihl 030, 031, 032 Workshop Manual- http://www.mediafire.com/?dnwykggj3jy
scanned paper copy, so it is rough.
032 IPL- http://www.mediafire.com/?bm9m11bjnw1
Click on the blue 'Click here to start download...' link on left.
Disclaimer: The links are on my own account of a file sharing site. The Workshop Manual is made from a my paper copy. The 031/032 is obsolete in Stihls mind so their lawyers shouldn't bother me. All other Workshop Manuals of Stihl products should be asked for in the Beg for Manuals thread to keep the lawyers at bay.
I've also seen strong runners go for as much as $150 to $200 on eBay lately. It's also a great source for whatever parts you might need. The seller CheapStihlParts had a bunch I needed.
FWIW, I tried a Stens Mega Fire II module but couldn't get it to spark consistently. I then went with the Stihl replacement module, mounting it on the coil. I changed the flywheel to the electronic version to avoid any potential timing problems. It runs great now. I also changed clutch springs, in case the chain-turning-at-idle problem I had was due to old, weak springs.
Do a search on electronic conversions and you'll find lots of info. I'm surprised no one else has posted yet.
Mine was sentimental also. My father gave it to me a while back. He bought it in the late 70's or early 80's, and didn't use it a lot, so it was in pretty good shape.
Good luck.
jcb1100-
Luck may be what I need.
My storyline reads much the same as yours, though without the happy ending. Had my '31' in two shops; hunted ebay and obscure parts suppliers for coil, modules, etc., but it continues to want to stall when warmed up [did not change flywheel]. Though I got a 361 -out of frustration, my bond with the roar and clank of that old, but sweet 31, won't loosen. Do you know of a reliable medicine man in the area I might seek for help? [I'm across the river]
Thanks, Longshot
jcb1100
ArboristSite Lurker
Unfortunately, I don't know of a really good saw shop. Although there are a few Stihl dealers near me, I did my work myself. I had the 031 in the local dealer, but all they could find was the spark plug needed to be replaced. It still didn't run right, and wouldn't start when warm, which is what got me started here. I got by with the IPL and shop manual, repetition, and the knowledge of the people here. The only reason I changed the flywheel was to prevent timing issues which can cause it to run hot (from what I read).
After reading many posts here, I'm pretty sure the problem was the condenser, and not the coil. The points looked fine. I could've tried another condenser, or a capacitor instead, but I've always liked no-maintenance electronic systems better.
If yours is like mine, with age but not a lot of hours on it, I'm sure it's something that can be solved. Stihl must have made a boatload of these saws, for it seems almost everybody here has one (or more). As I said, when it runs, it is a great saw. Don't give up.
Like they say, it's got to be fuel, spark, or compression. Mine was spark. And probably carb refresh. From what I have read, everything but the coil is still readily available, and they rarely go bad. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
After reading many posts here, I'm pretty sure the problem was the condenser, and not the coil. The points looked fine. I could've tried another condenser, or a capacitor instead, but I've always liked no-maintenance electronic systems better.
If yours is like mine, with age but not a lot of hours on it, I'm sure it's something that can be solved. Stihl must have made a boatload of these saws, for it seems almost everybody here has one (or more). As I said, when it runs, it is a great saw. Don't give up.
Like they say, it's got to be fuel, spark, or compression. Mine was spark. And probably carb refresh. From what I have read, everything but the coil is still readily available, and they rarely go bad. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
jcb1100-
Thanks for the quick reply.
I believe the condenser was replaced; but it sure sounds like we're chasing the same gremlin?? The fuel pipe between carb. and cylinder, as suggested, sounds like a good place to restart the hunt.
Longshot
Thanks for the quick reply.
I believe the condenser was replaced; but it sure sounds like we're chasing the same gremlin?? The fuel pipe between carb. and cylinder, as suggested, sounds like a good place to restart the hunt.
Longshot
Rookie1
Addicted to ArboristSite
I replaced a condenser on one with a new Stihl condenser from dealer and it was defective. I returned it for another one and it ran fine. I would look into that. Do you have an inline spark tester. If you hook it up and run it you should see the spark cutting out. That would tell you ignition prob. and not carb.
The condenser was replaced by a mechanic about a year ago. Although replacing it, assuming I can find one, is an option, -returning it is not. The last guy that worked on it seemed pretty good and I believe would have picked up on anything obvious. I do not have a tester, but I do have spark -at least initially. It starts, warms up, runs for a few cuts, then starts getting fussy -tending to stall unless I stay on the throttle. Once it does stall , restart turns to cussing and a trip back to the truck for the 361.
[ the details of the last service have gotten a little sketcky, but it was all about ignition; started with points, then went to more exotic components which were difficult to locate. Memory tells me coil/condenser, but I know something new [module?] was ultimately fitted under the hood.
Maybe I can dig up the receipt.
Grrrrrr!
[ the details of the last service have gotten a little sketcky, but it was all about ignition; started with points, then went to more exotic components which were difficult to locate. Memory tells me coil/condenser, but I know something new [module?] was ultimately fitted under the hood.
Maybe I can dig up the receipt.
Grrrrrr!
