346OE idle issue

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Give it a shade more low fuel and bring up the base idle...see if that makes any difference. I did a 440e this morning similar to yours and i finally relented and gave it a big swing out on the low...it started to dive, raised the base a turn and it was much happier

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I did.... and every other tuning combo
 
Clearly the idle is too high. Doesn’t matter what the idle is at, same outcome every time. More or less fuel same thing.
 
Pinched line? Vent? Muffler open? Tried a different ignition module?
 
Pinched line? Vent? Muffler open? Tried a different ignition module?

vent is a possibility. I had checked though that it was venting and even opening the cap made no difference when running. Did new fuel line to be sure it wasn’t that. Muffler is very open. I don’t have another ignition. It’ll stay running if I rev it up when the idle drops. I have read about stock vents on these not keeping up once ported. But that was for the newer versions. Vent changed. I’m still thinking it’s the vent or something completely un-related. Might end up tearing the whole saw apart again and testing it all over. Something isn’t right. Last owner said saw ran fine for him.
 
In the video it ran for a minute like that then died slowly. If I start with the correct idle speed it will do the same thing just sooner. Once it dies it won’t start back up unless I hi idle it. I’m wondering about the impulse as well.
 
Clearly the idle is too high. Doesn’t matter what the idle is at, same outcome every time. More or less fuel same thing.

It acts sort of like the "L" is not rich enough to begin with and then just runs out of gas like a vent issue. Isn't the "L" supposed to be tuned on the rich side for good throttle response? If this was the case and it was running out of fuel the idle should increase as it leans out before it dies.
 
I dont think its a vent issue, I own a ported 346xp old edition. The vent only acted up when at WOT in a cut. It was very apparent, and cracking open the tank would solve the issue. I ended up drilling out the tank vent, epoxied in a small barb, and running an external vent check in it. Little white thing like echo uses. Solved that problem. It would idle fine, all day long, with the stock vent. You can pop the vent disks out but get ready for a bloody mess of fuel, with out them in there. At least that would allow you to rule the vent out. I did have muffler restriction issues, but that (again) didnt present as an idle issue. The saw was lazy in the cut, like something was holding it back. I didnt realize the muffler opening was under sized untill I drilled a second 3/4" hole in it to "duel port" the muffler. Again, I dont think that would be your issue, as it only presented at WOT. Are you sure you dont have an air leak, in the intake boot? Or a crack where the impulse hose goes into the carb mounting block? I've had a few crack (at the barb)that gave me fits till I figured it out.
 
The idle will be much higher without a bar and chain. You can simulate a drag with your thumb and forefinger with the cover off for set up purposes if you do it all the time.
Just put the bar and chain on and see where you are really at after you tweak the low to where you said it ran fine. It will seem lean and sound a lot more tinny w/o bar and chain if it was set up right with chain on. It is rated at 14700 with the OE top end. It would feel like it will grenade with bar off.

That may be the first year Husqvarna came out with the first advancing coil as they came at the end of the 371 run I believe. It may have been jumping in and out when you turned down the fuel and thought it sounded lean?
I agree, its stumbling due to excessive fuel.
I would put walbro carb on and chain and try it.
I had an issue with fuel flow through the purge line into the carb where I thought it wasn't self priming after shutting it down. It was pretty hot weather. I just bypassed it. It doesn't look like the OE has one though?
 
Guys read the whole thread please. I’ve played with the tune extensively. Swapped a whole different carb on it which did not help. Setting the low too rich on any saw will result in poor throttle response.

Sean thanks for the help. I’ll pressure test it again but I have three times already and after fixing a minor leak after the first test it’s held vac/pressure perfect since. When running it’s very consistent. The tune is not wondering. I’m going to poke around the intake boot and impulse line. Maybe something is going on there. Saw starts up and runs fine. If it wasn’t for letting the saw idle for extended periods of time I would think it’s good to go.
 
Guys read the whole thread please. I’ve played with the tune extensively. Swapped a whole different carb on it which did not help. Setting the low too rich on any saw will result in poor throttle response.

Sean thanks for the help. I’ll pressure test it again but I have three times already and after fixing a minor leak after the first test it’s held vac/pressure perfect since. When running it’s very consistent. The tune is not wondering. I’m going to poke around the intake boot and impulse line. Maybe something is going on there. Saw starts up and runs fine. If it wasn’t for letting the saw idle for extended periods of time I would think it’s good to go.
If you do not find a pinched, hole, leak in lines, etc. Don't you have a 365/372/385/390 module you could try?
 
I’d inspect the intake tract fully. Really sounds like it’s loading up with fuel. Any obstruction or lip in the tract can cause that.

Where did you time the intake port at?
intake is smooth no lips and is at 77. But yes I feel the same way.
 
I had issues with the boot and intake nub not seated correctly to the hole in the cylinder. Also did you clearance the cylinder inside the case for the impulse path? Sealant or gasket can block it too.
I wondering all of this myself. I think I will be taking it all apart soon. Did not clearance anything. I did not see any potential for impulse obstruction. Looking at pics of the cylinder I don't see how it would be obstructed but it's something I will look at.
 

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