357 carb on 346xp

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You should be safe if it's 4 stroking. I would just tune in in the wood for strongest performance, and see what your rpm is with the tach afterward.
 
Must have been an early target max rpm?

My 2001 owner's manual says 14700. And I've heard the NE 346 is a bit lower.

.......

Yep, but it started higher in 1999, as albert stated. The NE is limited at 14,100, and they actually recommended max 14,200 on the OE ones here - probably because they were used for felling as well as limbing.......:msp_unsure:
 
The saw really has a different sound now! :msp_biggrin:

rpm1.jpg


Not much 4 stroke at that rpm, so back it down to 14800-15000 and it rips!

Conclusion, if you port your 346xp, a 357xp carb is not a bad move. :msp_biggrin:

And in my case, it's a direct bolt in, with just a light trim of plastic.

357carb1.jpg


Thanks for the input guys, especially Stump for tellin my to wind it up tighter.
 
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Congrats Don! You did a helluva job!

Thanks man, but not that big a deal. Video would help, but I don't do vids. Maybe we'll have moving pictures at the next GTG. :pumpkin2:

I was already happy with how the saw ran, just wanted to try the larger carb (temporarily), but I think I'll leave it on there. :msp_biggrin:
 
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Good job, is 15k where it seemed the strongest? Hows the tourque compared to the stock carb?
 
Good job, is 15k where it seemed the strongest? Hows the tourque compared to the stock carb?

Seems strongest around 14800-14900. I'd say torque is about the same as stock carb, but it's cuttin faster with the higher rpm and it's holding rpm real good. Holding around 10800 in the cut with good pressure on it, 16" bar buried in oak. It definitely feels stronger now (leaner), than when it was set richer.
 
Why weld a popup and add weight when you can turn a popup into the stock piston?

Please explain....welding and creating a pop-up would increase the compression ratio and cranking compression....by turning a stock piston into a pop-up wouldn't you be lowering the CR? Is the stroke, rod length, or pin height changed somehow to make a turned piston work?

thanks.
 
Please explain....welding and creating a pop-up would increase the compression ratio and cranking compression....by turning a stock piston into a pop-up wouldn't you be lowering the CR? Is the stroke, rod length, or pin height changed somehow to make a turned piston work?

thanks.

After ya turn a pop-up, you take the same off the bottom of the cylinder. This put the pop-up into the combustion chamber.
 
3/4 of a piece of alluminum filler rod don't wiegh that much, unless yer from Norway. Why go with a .030" popup when you can go .100" & really wake it up, also allot less work involved. I know the 372's like it. Different strokes fer different folks.

Now sit back & watch the can-o-worms explode:msp_ohmy:
 
I did this carb swap along with the flattop 353 piston to my ported Husky 350, it's a real budget runner. Parts, saw, bar and chain I have under 200$ into the saw.
 
3/4 of a piece of alluminum filler rod don't wiegh that much, unless yer from Norway. Why go with a .030" popup when you can go .100" & really wake it up, also allot less work involved. I know the 372's like it. Different strokes fer different folks.

Now sit back & watch the can-o-worms explode:msp_ohmy:

I'm with ya Stumpy. Two different schools of thought and both work.

Could turn a .030" pop and add another .050-.070" by welding. :msp_smile:
 
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