365/372 Squish and Transfers Questions

[BigDaddyR]

Okay so I have it apart, looking at eliminating the base gasket and seeing if the transfer covers should be sealed with sealer as well as the oring seals.

As far as squish goes I've measured solder from front, back and both sided and it averages .031. I also measured the base gasket where it is crushed and where it was not crushed down by the cylinder head. Gaset measures .010 at where the bolts tie it down and about .013-.015 in the middle. Gasket measures .020 where it has not been crushed down by the cylinder or bolts.


measurements, measuring tools, gasket
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cylinder, looks good to me
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measurements
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piston still looking new
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[excess650]

I like to see squish in the .020"-.025" range, but some of the builders get more aggressive.

 

[BigDaddyR]

Transfer covers

Here are the transfer covers that I ground. Do I need to seal the outsides of these with the anerobic Permatex sealer I got? Will the orings be enough? From what I measured the orings stick up above the transer plate about .010-.015 to mate up against the cylinder.


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View attachment 283109

 

[BigDaddyR]

Way to put the cylinder back on without fighting the intake boot?

What is the easiest way to get the cylinder back on without fighting the intake boot? I don't want to smear the sealer or smush it sideways. Sealer tube says to push straight down and not move it side to side.


View attachment 283110

 

[BigDaddyR]

I like to see squish in the .020"-.025" range, but some of the builders get more aggressive.

I read about it and it seems like .020 is the concensus which works if you take the .010-.031 leaves .021 but do you go by the original gasket or the reading on it after it's crushed down by tightening?

 

[HuskStihl]

A gasket will typically raise the cylinder .008 to .010 when doing its job. A .031 squish would likely translate into .022 or so without the gasket, but ideally you really want to bolt in the cylinder without the gasket or sealant and measure the squish then. Should be above .020 in most people's eyes. I think you will have to experiment with the transfer covers and see if they seal, but I can't see how permatex would hurt. I don't think you need to worry about the rubber boot, just pull it back with your fingers as you slide the cylinder down. It doesn't have to go down perfectly straight, just don't want to smear off too much of the sealant.
Good luck

 

[mdavlee]

Put the carb and boot on the cylinder before you put it back on the saw.

 

[super3]

I read about it and it seems like .020 is the concensus which works if you take the .010-.031 leaves .021 but do you go by the original gasket or the reading on it after it's crushed down by tightening?

After.

 

[3000 FPS]

For the rubber boot I usually separate the handle and gas tank from the rest of the saw. It gets a good cleaning that way and the rubber boot and carb goes with the handle and tank. This gives me plenty of room to see what is going on with the cylinder when putting it back on with sealant. Once cured then I put the handle and boot back on.