371xp Problems

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milesp05

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Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Ive got a 1998 xp i picked up at a pawn shop for 100$ and its idles good and runs good until it warms up then shuts off and will not crank. I've replaced the fuel tank line and thats about it. Any suggestions? All feedback is welcomed. God bless!
 
How's the compression? Tank vent plugged? Bad coil?

Welcome to the forum.

Compression seems fine. Not sure what psi is suppose to be, but i takes a strong pull to turn the motor over. From some Youtube videos it sounds as if the coil is breaking down when it gets hot. They say its rare, but does happen. Thoughts? or some other test i can run before looking into coils? Thanks
 
Pull the muffler and look at the piston. Or at least pull the spark plug and look down the hole for streaks around exhaust opening and ports.
 
How's the compression? Tank vent plugged? Bad coil?

Welcome to the forum.

Not sure what psi the compression is suppose to be, but it takes some strong pulls to turn the motor over so im thinking the compression is fine. From watching some Youtube vids it seems the coil is breaking down when the saw heats up. They say its rare but can happen. Any thoughts or test I can try before looking into replacing the coil? Thanks
 
Check the tank vent then, and impulse too. While you're at it check the intake boot for tears.

I replaced the impulse line and it doesnt seem to make a difference. Now the saw will not crank. I wonder if the fuel line i bought is too big and is being pinched shut. I picked up the line from O'Rielly and just eye balled the sizes. it was tough to slide in the tank, so...possiblity? I checked the ignition and the start plug has fire.
 
I replaced the impulse line and it doesnt seem to make a difference. Now the saw will not crank. I wonder if the fuel line i bought is too big and is being pinched shut. I picked up the line from O'Rielly and just eye balled the sizes. it was tough to slide in the tank, so...possiblity? I checked the ignition and the start plug has fire.

Get the correct line from the saw shop, it could be pinched now where it goes through the hole.
 
The fuel tank vent hole is just to the right of the center seam in the top of the fuel tank just beside where the fuel line goes in the tank.

This is fine and dandy for it is between the tank and the carburetor floor. You will have to drop the tank down to get in there for you cannot see it from the outside.

Unfasten the anti-vibe spring at the top handle beside the cylinder

Unfasten the left side spring that is near where you reach through the main case to adjust the needle valves.

There is another limiter screw behind the clutch under the clutch cover.

Unfasten the throttle cable from the carb and the fuel line from the carb

Now swing the tank down enough to see what I'm talking about or you can also remove the front AV spring and remove the whole tank.
 
The fuel tank vent hole is just to the right of the center seam in the top of the fuel tank just beside where the fuel line goes in the tank.

This is fine and dandy for it is between the tank and the carburetor floor. You will have to drop the tank down to get in there for you cannot see it from the outside.

Unfasten the anti-vibe spring at the top handle beside the cylinder

Unfasten the left side spring that is near where you reach through the main case to adjust the needle valves.

There is another limiter screw behind the clutch under the clutch cover.

Unfasten the throttle cable from the carb and the fuel line from the carb

Now swing the tank down enough to see what I'm talking about or you can also remove the front AV spring and remove the whole tank.

Ive got the tank off and ive located a hole beside the fuel line on the side of the fuel tank. It looks like a plug almost, brown in the center and a black ring around it. its hard to the touch. Is this the vent hole? And can i remove this plug?
 
Ive got the tank off and ive located a hole beside the fuel line on the side of the fuel tank. It looks like a plug almost, brown in the center and a black ring around it. its hard to the touch. Is this the vent hole? And can i remove this plug?

Push it out from the inside with some long bent narrow needle nose pliers or forceps.
 
The fuel tank vent hole is just to the right of the center seam in the top of the fuel tank just beside where the fuel line goes in the tank.

This is fine and dandy for it is between the tank and the carburetor floor. You will have to drop the tank down to get in there for you cannot see it from the outside.

Unfasten the anti-vibe spring at the top handle beside the cylinder

Unfasten the left side spring that is near where you reach through the main case to adjust the needle valves.

There is another limiter screw behind the clutch under the clutch cover.

Unfasten the throttle cable from the carb and the fuel line from the carb

Now swing the tank down enough to see what I'm talking about or you can also remove the front AV spring and remove the whole tank.

Now I have replaced the fuel line, impulse line, vent tube. Rebuilt carb. Saw is running again, but once it gets warm, it idles good and will cut but if I put under a load for a extended period it acts as if its running out of fuel. My research has shown that Husqvarna tend to have this problem...I have checked for holes the the intake boot, but looks fine. Any suggestions?
 
I've watched a lot of chainsaws cutting cookies at GTG's or chainsaw gatherings. These guys want their chainsaws to run as good as possible so the RPM is turned up pretty high.

When they start out cutting, the chainsaw is still running good, but by the third cookie on a three cut sequence, you can hear the engine sagging because it is too lean before he gets through that last cut.

This is due to heat build up within the engine.

Perhaps your 371 needs to be tuned to 12,500 before the cut so the engine is not too lean before you get through the log?
 
I've watched a lot of chainsaws cutting cookies at GTG's or chainsaw gatherings. These guys want their chainsaws to run as good as possible so the RPM is turned up pretty high.

When they start out cutting, the chainsaw is still running good, but by the third cookie on a three cut sequence, you can hear the engine sagging because it is too lean before he gets through that last cut.

This is due to heat build up within the engine.

Perhaps your 371 needs to be tuned to 12,500 before the cut so the engine is not too lean before you get through the log?

Good suggestion w8 :clap:

:popcorn:
 
You might as well test compression. It should read 130-150psi. Low compression can cause the issues you're having. If compression is ok, it's probably time to pressure test the crankcase for air leaks. It could even be a bad spark plug or coil. As mentioned,check for spark after it dies.
 

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