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What brand of piston? I would only consider OEM or Meteor.

Any compression gauge you use MUST have a Schrader valve at the very tip of the hose.

Meteor.

It has the Schrader gauge there. That was the reason I was getting bad readings on my screw in gauge, the valve was at the gauge and not the hose.
 
Also, if after all of this it still runs like garbage you may need to replace the cylinder. I'm no saw guru, but I'm familiar enough with other fun 2-strokes to know that a bad port job can do alot of harm to the performance. Also, every experienced porter I have ever spoken to has told me that you don't want smooth polished surfaces in any part of the intake tracts.. Exhaust is fine to polish though.
 
Also, if after all of this it still runs like garbage you may need to replace the cylinder. I'm no saw guru, but I'm familiar enough with other fun 2-strokes to know that a bad port job can do alot of harm to the performance. Also, every experienced porter I have ever spoken to has told me that you don't want smooth polished surfaces in any part of the intake tracts.. Exhaust is fine to polish though.


I'm pretty confident that the porting on the cylinder is fine.

I don't want to argue and defend my friend that I bought the saw from, but this thing has cut a lot of timber with this cylinder, it has been well maintained, and has a lot of hours on it. He ran this saw for a year with this cylinder on it as a primary saw, another year as a backup, and I had 2 seasons of firewood on it. Any performance drop from the 'bad port job' would have been realized a few years ago.
 
Copy that.. Carry on. :)

Don't feel guilty about defending your friend.. If you feel the porting work is good, I am more than happy to take your word for it.

Still should check that fuel pickup/filter though. It's surprising sometimes the amount of stuff that can make it's way into the fuel tank despite efforts to prevent it. My dad always kept an old paintbrush in his saw box and would brush the saw off in the area of the fuel and oil fill caps.. Kind of passed that habit on to me as well.
 
I'll check that, thanks.

Any thoughts about the vac tester I posted in the last page? I think that post is getting lost since the pages switched right after I posted.


Good idea with the paintbrush. I'll have to remember that one.

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Mityvac 8500 can be for less than 100. I use a Sears version. You don't the OEM block off plates. A piece of innertube or other suitable membrane between the muffler and cylinder and one between the intake and carb and use the impulse line as the air inlet/outlet source. I used a Harbor freight brake bleeder for a while for vacuum testing and it worked fine until I stepped on the gauge.

Jeremy
 
Cool, thanks. I ordered one off Amazon, $68. Much better than $120.


Well my chainsaw tool buying is complete, all in one project. It's stuff I've been wanting to do anyways. At least now I'll have a better idea of checking this kind of stuff for future problems.


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