372 question

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Jules083

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Trying to come up with a plan for my 372XP. Here's what I have:

Bought the saw used from a logger for $300. Didn't quite run right, figured the price was right and I could work out the bugs. Used it for a winter a little, probably 3-5 cords. Kind of used it as a novelty but still grabbed the old one when it came time to do the work, which was not my intention at all.

What I know is that I was told the saw has a big bore kit, and the PO ported and polished the cylinder. Also I know that it has a lot of hours on it, and I think he put one tooth bigger chain sprocket on it but I haven't been able to confirm that. I think stock is a 7 tooth, I guess I need to pull the chain and count them.

What the saw does is run awesome when wide open and screaming. At every other condition it runs poorly. It seems once you get below a certain RPM it just falls on its face and bogs out. If you start to bog it down too far it'll pull less than my 55 Rancher, but wide open and close to redline it cuts twice as fast. I hope that made sense. Also throttle response is terrible, and the idle 'hangs'. Compression feels a bit less than my Stihl 041, I'll check it with a tester in the morning to verify.

I think getting rid of the amateur porting and polishing that was done would probably be an improvement. He said himself that he didn't know what he was doing, just copied what he saw was done to other cylinders. Remember that he did log with this saw, on his porting, so it can't be all bad. Also worth noting that he buys a new 372 every 6-8 months, and had 2 more after this one and gave up on them all together. He used to go with a ported 372 and a stock 390. Now he carries 2 390's, one of which sits in the skidder.



My idea is to buy a new cylinder kit, regardless of the compression readings. Once that is done I could start tuning the carb and see where I'm at. I want the bottom end power, if I lose the over-rev that's ok. I'm here to cut a pile of firewood, not win a race.

Thoughts?







Sorry for the rambling, I may be drinking beer. I'm trying hard to be clear and concise, not sure if it's working......
 
Your message came thru loud and clear in spite of the beer. Lol
I would do the simple stuff first, like just rering it and carb kit. It sounds like the pump side of the carb may have a clogged breather hole. If your happy with the top end power, there is no need to sink money for a new jug.
 
What you describe sounds like what a poor quality "big bore" cylinder kit and a hacked "port job" would yield...

Your best bet would be to find a used OEM cylinder that needs cleaning up and install a piston of decent quality like a Meteor. If you put another aftermarket kit on it, you will likely be disappointed.

Is this an OE or X-Torq 372?
 
What you describe sounds like what a poor quality "big bore" cylinder kit and a hacked "port job" would yield...

Your best bet would be to find a used OEM cylinder that needs cleaning up and install a piston of decent quality like a Meteor. If you put another aftermarket kit on it, you will likely be disappointed.

That's what I was thinking.

Although I don't know much about chainsaw building. I'm in the 'buy it new, fix what breaks, don't mess with it' camp generally.
 
Have you played with the carb screws?

Yes. It's as good as it gets right now.




The saw runs great if your goal is only wide open cutting of big stuff, and you don't mind keeping it running in between cuts. You really have to work to keep it running though, an occasional blip of the throttle won't do it.
 
What you describe sounds like what a poor quality "big bore" cylinder kit and a hacked "port job" would yield...

Your best bet would be to find a used OEM cylinder that needs cleaning up and install a piston of decent quality like a Meteor. If you put another aftermarket kit on it, you will likely be disappointed.

Is this an OE or X-Torq 372?
The OP may just be a woodtick (casual cutter), so instead of infecting him with CAD at this stage, maybe we should see how much time he can get out said hoof rasped cylinder. Lol
 
The OP may just be a woodtick (casual cutter), so instead of infecting him with CAD at this stage, maybe we should see how much time he can get out said hoof rasped cylinder. Lol

I have a start on CAD.

Stihl 021, 031AV, 041 Farm Boss

Husqvarna 55 Rancher, 372XP

Nowhere near what some of you guys have, but I'm working on it.


Slowing me down is the fact that I hate junk, and try to stick to 'premium' brands on saws. I would pass over a running Homelite to buy a junk Stihl, even though that Homelite may very well be a better saw.
 
pump side of the carb may have a clogged breather hole

Never thought of that one.




Money for a new jug is no issue. I was at the Stihl dealer to buy a new MS261 and started thinking that maybe that money would be better spent on getting this saw back to 100%, then buying the 261 next year. The only way I'll give this saw the attention it deserves is if I need it running right now.
 
.....
What I know is that I was told the saw has a big bore kit, and the PO ported and polished the cylinder.

......

I would never buy a used saw from a logger, and certainly not one with an AM top end on it.

That means 1) Something went wrong 2) He was too "cheap" to buy the proper replacement. 3) You don't know if he fixed the original issue.

Don't read me wrong, some of the 52mm top ends can be ported into very good performers - but that isn't the typical result of a hack turning loose on one.
 
I would never buy a used saw from a logger, and certainly not one with an AM top end on it.

That means 1) Something went wrong 2) He was too "cheap" to buy the proper replacement. 3) You don't know if he fixed the original issue.
Sawtroll, some logger are real culls and don't know how to adjust carb, etc, that's where we come into the picture. Lol.
 

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