Former Saw Builder
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- Oct 8, 2005
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372xp Bar size ?
- Thread starter nickg
- Start date
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SawTroll
Information Collector
stevethekiwi
Addicted to ArboristSite
No, way too front heavy for anything but bucking........
lol... i can believe anyone would fit a 20" to a 372
what size would you put on a 395??
SawTroll
Information Collector
I really have no idea, as I never used one - but probably would start out with a 28", and go from there........
The only 395s my dealer have sold, was to our Engeneer battallion, for ice cutting - no wood that requires one here.......
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kurtty
ArboristSite Operative
i live in saskatchewan and we dont have very many big trees here due to the cold cimate so i rarely have to cut a tree bigger than 20"
so all my saws wear a 20" bar. if you live in the PNW then go for a 28" but 20" sure seems to be a comfortable lenght for me. i had an 18" on one of my saws for a while and it was a little bit too small for bucking as sometimes i would lose the bar in the wood.
so all my saws wear a 20" bar. if you live in the PNW then go for a 28" but 20" sure seems to be a comfortable lenght for me. i had an 18" on one of my saws for a while and it was a little bit too small for bucking as sometimes i would lose the bar in the wood.
stevethekiwi
Addicted to ArboristSite
How bigga wood?
Nobody ask yet or did I just miss it? If you are cutting 20" and smaller then a 20" bar should be sufficient, and then you could set up a 28" full skip for the occasional big one. If you cut a lot of 20-24" wood then set it up with a 24", that saw will pull any of those bars well especially if you do a small muff mod.
Nobody ask yet or did I just miss it? If you are cutting 20" and smaller then a 20" bar should be sufficient, and then you could set up a 28" full skip for the occasional big one. If you cut a lot of 20-24" wood then set it up with a 24", that saw will pull any of those bars well especially if you do a small muff mod.
Ghillie
Addicted to ArboristSite
danrclem
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've got a 20" on my 372 but I plan on buying a 24" for the bigger stuff. The 20" will stay on it most of the time.
Hugenpoet
Addicted to ArboristSite
+1 Here in New England, a 20" is, IMHO, perfect for the typical size of our hardwood. Run 20" on my 372XP, the 2171 and 6401-18" on my MS361. Makes it easy to stock a lot of extra chains.
20" stays on 372 all the time. Fast cutting, no waiting.
I run a 24", 28" or 36" on my 395 depending on what size tree I'm cutting.
I love running the 395 with a 24" bar, amazingly fast cutting, even in Oak.
It'll make you grin so wide you'll have stretch marks.
:greenchainsaw:
testlight
ArboristSite Operative
Unless you are very short, get the 24 or bigger.
Try to touch the ground with the tip of the bar, with a 20 and a 24. Most find that longer bars make working wood on the ground a lot easier. Also bar size has a lot to do with the kind and size of trees you are going to be dealing with. However even if your sawing very hard wood chances are the 20" is going to be holding the saw back.
I have a 28" for my 575 (same class of saw).
Try to touch the ground with the tip of the bar, with a 20 and a 24. Most find that longer bars make working wood on the ground a lot easier. Also bar size has a lot to do with the kind and size of trees you are going to be dealing with. However even if your sawing very hard wood chances are the 20" is going to be holding the saw back.
I have a 28" for my 575 (same class of saw).
SawTroll
Information Collector
Right, I have a 20, 24 and a 16", and the 20" is on most of the time.
The 16" is a leftover from another project, and not bought for the 372 though........
rsscully
ArboristSite Member
Already have an 18" on my 51 so 20" didn't make sense on the 372, went with 24". Faster to switch saws then bars.
:greenchainsaw:
:greenchainsaw:
lazermule
ArboristSite Operative
I have a 20" on my 372xp and when cutting a 20" semi dry oak today with a new pro chain that is about all that it wanted. It goes through soft wood (poplar) like butter though, but up here you won't find a poplar over 20" diameter.
For working with wood on the ground and bucking, I do kind of think the 24" would be better though.
I will probably do a muffler mod on mine in time soon as it's broke in good.
For working with wood on the ground and bucking, I do kind of think the 24" would be better though.
I will probably do a muffler mod on mine in time soon as it's broke in good.
bowtechmadman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Mine's wearing a 18" bar...overkill I suppose so, I also have a 20" for my 066.
stevethekiwi
Addicted to ArboristSite
24" on my "limbing" 371 and 36" on the 394.
I guess I get big wood too!!
well mr hogan, if you say you've got big wood i'd hate to doubt ya
AUSSIE1
Al.
Fairdinkum, balance is different to needing bar size to match log size.
I've a 28" if needed but a 20" balances best with the weight/handle relationship of a 371/372XP.
24" for my 385XP, 28" for my 395XP.
Sorry Steve, I think you just don't get it.
Al.
I've a 28" if needed but a 20" balances best with the weight/handle relationship of a 371/372XP.
24" for my 385XP, 28" for my 395XP.
Sorry Steve, I think you just don't get it.
Al.
stevethekiwi
Addicted to ArboristSite
lol... what difference does balance make when your saw spends all day in a log? if I had to walk 20m between every cut, id probably feel different......
stk
