372xp BB KITS

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Haven't pulled it yet. But looking through plug hole cylinder seems to be ok. May get time this afternoon to pull cylinder and get pics and more eyeballing done.
 
Did you reuse the cylinder when you did the rebuild?
 
You never can predict the special conditions these things will see, from installation to service life. OEM is always the best, and the price of OEM has dropped to the point it really doesn't make sense to go AM unless its less than $50 bucks....a good 372xp OEM is around $125 maybe $150 after mark up....the transfers are choked up for what ever their design intent for RPM's...they can be hogged out. Everything else 372 applies. I've seen and heard all the horror stories and sometime wonder if we get the whole story. Can't tell you how many saws have floated though my view where new top ends were put on and things like bad bearings, seals, boots, base gaskets that actually had cause the original issue were not addressed and of course the replacement part was to blame!

Someone like Brad can save a person who wants a built saw a LOT of time and aggravation by doing what he does to make a saw run stronger. Time is money. As far as using AM for learning..WHY NOT?? Get the cheap $50 dollar BB and hack away, whats to loose?? I've seen gains just dong the simple stuff and made a series of videos just articulating that and sharing the experience for the ones who don't want to grind up stuff...fact is some simple things and a cheap BB can make for a strong saw and you don't need all the fancy labels to do that...maybe not for a pro but certainly for a firewood guy.
 
You never can predict the special conditions these things will see, from installation to service life. OEM is always the best, and the price of OEM has dropped to the point it really doesn't make sense to go AM unless its less than $50 bucks....a good 372xp OEM is around $125 maybe $150 after mark up....the transfers are choked up for what ever their design intent for RPM's...they can be hogged out. Everything else 372 applies. I've seen and heard all the horror stories and sometime wonder if we get the whole story. Can't tell you how many saws have floated though my view where new top ends were put on and things like bad bearings, seals, boots, base gaskets that actually had cause the original issue were not addressed and of course the replacement part was to blame!

Someone like Brad can save a person who wants a built saw a LOT of time and aggravation by doing what he does to make a saw run stronger. Time is money. As far as using AM for learning..WHY NOT?? Get the cheap $50 dollar BB and hack away, whats to loose?? I've seen gains just dong the simple stuff and made a series of videos just articulating that and sharing the experience for the ones who don't want to grind up stuff...fact is some simple things and a cheap BB can make for a strong saw and you don't need all the fancy labels to do that...maybe not for a pro but certainly for a firewood guy.
Where y'all finding 200$ oem p/c. The ones I've seen are 375$and up. That's why I've been looking at AM
 
Only dealer here is a stihl dealer and nothing from there is cheap. I'm in stihl country around here. lol I'm the one getting strange looks for running husqvarna and Dolmar.
 
I'm wondering if it's from old carbon?? I do remember I couldn't get all the old carbon out when I cleaned up p/c. What about piston rock?? I can't feel anything with my finger and I can still see the cross hatch even in the spots. Just can't get it in a good picture
 
I'm thinking crud was still in the crankcase when you put it back together... definitely a head scratcher
I was just thinking the same thing bud. This saw was my total take down and total rebuild. It's been done about a year but might only have 4 tanks through it
 
Back
Top