395xp, piston stop or air ratchet?

[PES+]

Both

Sorry for the confusion. When using the stop I pull the rope out six inches or so before locking with either a stop or a piece of rope fed into the plug hole. Depending on where the pawls are clocked in the housing even locked it can cause damage to the starter. When I have those "time concious" customers I pull the rope all the way out and blip the impact while feeding the starter rope back in with the left hand (depending on my current relationship with customer)Yes it is a bit of a juggling act and yes I do remove the plug wire for safety. I never use anything to hold any flywheel unless it is cast iron and then only as a last resort. I have seen lots of flywheels shatter after being abused by shadetree repair jobs.
It is best to take the time to actually torque the clutch but.......
as I said......the customer is always right
:bang:

 

[cbfarmall]

not realising that all clutch threads are reversed, and busts his saw.

Firstly, not all clutch threads are left-hand. I can't remember what saw it was offhand, but if I do I'll post. I think maybe a McCulloch.

Secondly, most clutches that I've seen have some markings on them identifying the correct direction to turn it for removal.

Thirdly, if someone keeps leaning on a wrench hard enough to break a piston/rod/crank when removing the clutch, maybe he has no business working on a saw.

Chris B.

 

[PES+]

Be nice

We all started somewhere

 

[GPH85]

Thirdly, if someone keeps leaning on a wrench hard enough to break a piston/rod/crank when removing the clutch, maybe he has no business working on a saw.

Chris B.

This is why I pointed out the negatives of everything and also stated that not all saws are built equal. Some cheaper than others... I have heard of quite a few people out there shattering a piston, whether stock or aftermarket using the rope method. Also why I pointed out, or atleast tried to point out, that most of these times the rope wasn't in the bore on the piston dome equally, resulting in loading up one side of the piston vs. equal arial load...

Pest - I have seen lots of flywheels shatter after being abused by shadetree repair jobs.

Are you referring to me being a shadetree tech? I assume so... BUT as stated, I've never once had a flywheel shatter, crack or break using the claw hammer method. I completely agree that most flywheel jamming methods are bad, such as using a screwdriver and most times these methods will break something. There is always a right and wrong way to do or use the same methods!!!

Greg

 

[bama]

I use an air wrench on the clutch, but I have also used rope on the smaller saws. I pull the recoil almost all the way out so I can hold it in my left hand while I use the air wrench to make sure I don't ding up the recoil.

I worked on some Homelite Super 2's that had a clockwise threaded locknut that held the clutch in place. Remington SL4 also has the same design on the clutch.

 

[cbfarmall]

We all started somewhere

I know what you mean. First flywheel I ever helped remove, me and a buddy each had a screwdriver wedged underneath the flywheel and a 3rd guy was banging on the nut with a hammer. Got it loose, never did get the saw going. It was a Wright reciprocator, so who cares.

Anyhoo, I was working on a Homelite 650 yesterday, changing the crank seals. I was all set with a puller to remove the flywheel, but the nut was not on very tight. So, betting that it would come loose easily I threaded the nut fully back onto the crank, picked the saw up by the flywheel with one hand and gave a couple raps with a hammer and voila, it came loose.

Unfortunately, part of the taper was cracked but not missing chunks. Replaced the seal, cleaned it up real good, put a little loctite on the taper and tightened up the nut, TIGHT. I let it set up overnight and its like perfect. If I want to take the flywheel loose again, I might be out of luck.:bang:

It is interesting to note this saw (650) has a provision for locking the flywheel. There is a hole/beefed-up area in the bottom of the case and slot in the flywheel to insert a locking pin. I just used a allen wrench. I'm willing to bet that my other Homelite of this era (360) has a similar feature. Normally, though, I would have used rope in the cylinder.

Chris B.

 

[cbfarmall]

that most of these times the rope wasn't in the bore on the piston dome equally

What really sucks is when the rope gets cut off in a transfer port or the exhaust. I've had it happen once but but managed to fish it out. I've heard of people having to tear the whole saw down.

Chris B.

 

[PES+]

I was not implying anything

I am sure you are careful GPH85

I just try to take into consideration all levels of mechanical aptitude.
I also do lots of things that I would not suggest to others because I learned the hard way. I was actually thinking more on the flywheels breaking and mostly remember the cast zinc being the most common failures. (lawnmowers of past days and some saws)
Almost forgot do NOT use an impact on small diameter cranks with larger saws
I snapped a brand new 2083 crank mag end torquing it with a torque wrench (covered under warrantee) but MAN

 

[GPH85]

What really sucks is when the rope gets cut off in a transfer port or the exhaust. I've had it happen once but but managed to fish it out. I've heard of people having to tear the whole saw down.

Chris B.

Yeh, had that one happen when I still used tricks like this... Took 30 some minutes fishing out the frazzled pieces of the rope with specialty pliers through the exhaust port to get everything out. I decided right then and there I was never using the rope "trick" again. On top of that It wasn't the end of the rope that I was fishing out, it was some section of it near the center of the loop section...

You just stop to think about it... Any little fibers that may come off of that rope are now inside your cylinder scoring away at your bore, ports, rings and everything else and not to mention that most use nylon ropes, which melt and now you've got pieces of plastic stuck to everything until it eventually burns out...

Oh well, seems like you lose more than you win in instances like this...