30 is good. 100 is better.
Are you starring to see the futility of these homegrown half azzed tests?
400c Rumors… or just internet trolls.
- Thread starter JKendrick87
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Are you starring to see the futility of these homegrown half azzed tests?
OK, so how much could difference in accuracy then ,for instance with that method? Just for example I never tried so give me an idea?
I'll give you an anecdote. Back when I was racing bikes I was a Honda cr250 guy for years. I happened on a Yamaha Yz250 for cheap. For the first few times riding it I felt it was a dog. Then I raced against a friend's Cr250 and smoked him consistently. This was on two track roads so no operator skill involved. We even swapped bikes with the same result.
What it came down to was the YZ had a lower pitched exhaust note and just didn't sound as fast, and it had a power curve that generated less wheel spin. However it certainly was faster.
One of my bikes was a Honda CR 250- 500 hybrid the 250 was removed and a 500 put in place that bike was hard to beat.
I had several cr500's motors in cr250 aluminum frames.
cuttinstihl
ArboristSite Operative
Stock 400c barely outruns my muffler modded 620P, muffler mod would only further that gap.
Wasn’t trying to be a tough bunch. Sorry.
I cut a lot of cookies on video. A guy gets pretty good at feeling what’s fast and what’s slow when he can confirm what he felt with the video timer. Sometimes when I dog in it’s a second faster and sometimes it’s 3-4 seconds slower than if I made a single cut straight down.
Point being is straight down cuts vary usually by 5-10% and dogged in cuts vary by 5-30%.
Guys will make videos of how one saw beats up on another saw when it only wins by 10-20%, but dogging in can vary the cut times by more than the difference between the two.
So basically, make repeated straight cuts down if you want to see which one is faster. And then shut the stopwatch off if you want to see how they feel by dogging in
Check the plating. That all that really matters and all the fins are not blocked. Many AM cylinders have casting flash in the fins blocking airflow.
Can someone bring their stopwatch to my log pile? 
JKendrick87
ArboristSite Operative
As long as these content creators get views they don’t seem to care.
I did remember?Can someone bring their stopwatch to my log pile?
Exactly.
Thanks Lightning. My new in the box 051 and 075 cylinders are OEM Stihl, not aftermarket. I will check though as you advise.
It's just basics nothing more.
Dumb looks are still free.
I don't know what's more corny..those videos or the people that watch them, lol.
Like said use same chain if you can on each saw. I did it back years ago comparing many different saws in same cc range. Over and over. Would love to do some of these new offerings.
Use same rim size like 7T 8T etc on all same.
I know the BOOBtubers today ruined it for me.
I still look for racing video's and how to if really stuck and just cant get that brake part right etc. But all these clowns on there doing it just to get clicks and make money from it spewing their BS just did it in for me.
Same chain and 7T. Just 2 of the 62cc and 60cc Closed port. open port. Did a 262 1990 later. But not in the 4 I tested that day.
Use same rim size like 7T 8T etc on all same.
I know the BOOBtubers today ruined it for me.
I still look for racing video's and how to if really stuck and just cant get that brake part right etc. But all these clowns on there doing it just to get clicks and make money from it spewing their BS just did it in for me.
Same chain and 7T. Just 2 of the 62cc and 60cc Closed port. open port. Did a 262 1990 later. But not in the 4 I tested that day.
Same chain on these with 7T. 65cc 67cc 61cc. After this the echo 6700 got sold and the 3800. I hear the later gen3 680 was a better runner.
6700 even had muffler mod and a bigger 8000 biggest carb they had for those back then too. Helped some but very lack luster. Other 2 was all stock.
6700 even had muffler mod and a bigger 8000 biggest carb they had for those back then too. Helped some but very lack luster. Other 2 was all stock.
Now that so many people realize Zootube is a big game it's definitely getting harder to find stuff worth watching. The only way to know how tools get destroyed is a full teardown and inspection. Giving options is just that if you need to narrate the teardown. Acual closeups of the part in question or failures not based on fuel problems or fuel not mixed aka: straight gassed, is about all I'd be interested in watching. Comparisons is more of a hands on thing. The chain condition doesn't change how the tool feels in the cut just the speed.
As for cut speed you need the same rim, chain and bar with the same oils, fuel and mix. Anything moved around isn't going to be accurate at all. A clamp system with some type of lever and a counterweight is about the only way to balance load while testing at different loaded rpm. The bar force must also be equal and on the same path everytime. I just cut with a sharp chain and access torque pulling into the wood. Not very scientific but repeatable to gauge gains in the mid or top rpm range. I'm guessing most folks do about the same. Anything beyond that needs modern electronics to be comparable imho. A dyno seems like overkill for handheld work tools.
As for cut speed you need the same rim, chain and bar with the same oils, fuel and mix. Anything moved around isn't going to be accurate at all. A clamp system with some type of lever and a counterweight is about the only way to balance load while testing at different loaded rpm. The bar force must also be equal and on the same path everytime. I just cut with a sharp chain and access torque pulling into the wood. Not very scientific but repeatable to gauge gains in the mid or top rpm range. I'm guessing most folks do about the same. Anything beyond that needs modern electronics to be comparable imho. A dyno seems like overkill for handheld work tools.
smokey7
jack of a lot ace of a few
You must just want to run the saw vs splitting that ash with a mawl or ax. That stuff should be a 1 smack stuff.
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