joecool85
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sure does appear to be Poulan judging by the looks of things. Reminds me of the insides of my 330 with exception to the newer carb and the adjuster being on the cover.
50cc Craftsman/Poulan - looks nice
- Thread starter joecool85
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Sure does appear to be Poulan judging by the looks of things. Reminds me of the insides of my 330 with exception to the newer carb and the adjuster being on the cover.
redneckrepairs
ArboristSite Lurker
I didn't run a half tank of fuel through it today but once warmed up it was boggy going from idle to wide open . I had to fiddle a bit with the trigger to get the rpm up but it seemed to do pretty good once it spooled up . I suppose i should learn how to adjust the carb since i am pretty sure it isnt close for our 4.5k altitude here .
laser
ArboristSite Lurker
That clutch cover is metal, I can tell now that I've already scratched it. ;-)
Mine has the bogging on the trigger pull initially when you first get it cranked, but if you rev it up and let it get going, it fades away. Takes 30 seconds. However, I don't drain my saw after each use like I should. It's just not practical right now. I'm not scared of cleaning the carb from my stupidity/laziness. After wood season is over, I'll make sure I clean it up before I put it away.
The anti-vibration is pretty good to me.. I have rheumatoid arthritis, and that old Husky wore my hands out just holding it. This one is a breeze. Still, it'd be nicer if it were lighter.
Gassed up and oiled, it weighs exactly 16.00lbs...the Husky weighs the same, but the manufacturer says it weighs 11.something. And the Husky wasn't topped off like the Craftsman.
I will say this, I never understood anyone's fascination with using a saw until this Craftsman...this stuff is actually fun. :biggrinbounce2:
I have a strange urge to do a muffler mod...
Mine has the bogging on the trigger pull initially when you first get it cranked, but if you rev it up and let it get going, it fades away. Takes 30 seconds. However, I don't drain my saw after each use like I should. It's just not practical right now. I'm not scared of cleaning the carb from my stupidity/laziness. After wood season is over, I'll make sure I clean it up before I put it away.
The anti-vibration is pretty good to me.. I have rheumatoid arthritis, and that old Husky wore my hands out just holding it. This one is a breeze. Still, it'd be nicer if it were lighter.
Gassed up and oiled, it weighs exactly 16.00lbs...the Husky weighs the same, but the manufacturer says it weighs 11.something. And the Husky wasn't topped off like the Craftsman.
I will say this, I never understood anyone's fascination with using a saw until this Craftsman...this stuff is actually fun. :biggrinbounce2:
I have a strange urge to do a muffler mod...
joecool85
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yeah, its leaning out. You will ruin the engine if you run it like that too long. You need to richen up the mixture on the carb. Odds are that even at sea level it is a little on the lean side from the factory, most modern saws are due to EPA regs.
redneckrepairs
ArboristSite Lurker
that would be open up the hs screw correct ?
stevephillips
ArboristSite Member
Wouldn't higher altitude make it run richer (thinner air)?
joecool85
Addicted to ArboristSite
Color me wrong, you got me there. I hadn't thought into it too much.
Well that is good news then, not much danger of ruining your engine if you don't adjust it, it'll just run poorly due to being too rich. Although, it may STILL be too lean just because they come SO lean from the factory regardless.
Give it a good tune (both L and H) and keep the idle low enough that it doesn't engage the chain and you'll be happy.
laser
ArboristSite Lurker
So, I wanted another chain...already dulled the first one, and I don't want to practice on my only chain. Nobody stocks the "official" chain locally. Found two in Silver Spring, for $28. That's about an hour drive one way.
The chain says 72V on it. If you look on Oregon's site, they say this:
http://www.oregonchain.com/homeowner/products/chain/d_series_sawchain.htm
There is no Gold-Colored ID Link on the stock Craftsman chain, but again, it says 72V, which is supposed to be a D-series Vanguard chain.
Soo...I got a 20" D series from Tractor Supply. It's a bit long...but the bar can be adjusted to take it. Barely. I can get it tighter than you need it to be, though...so it seems OK. It moves freely, doesn't seem like there's anything wrong with it...
I ran the saw, nothing unusual. I can see the oil around the bar, so I know it's getting lubed. It doesn't spray out the tip as much like the old chain does...is this a potential lubrication problem?
I haven't cut anything with it yet, or run it for any length of time. I'm kind of paranoid about it. Should I be? I'm a noob, so with it not being an exact replacement, I'm a little nervous that I might be doing something wrong.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/outdoo...-reg-20-in-vanguard-premium-saw-chain-4435736
^That's the chain I bought for it.
So, what do you guys think?
The chain says 72V on it. If you look on Oregon's site, they say this:
http://www.oregonchain.com/homeowner/products/chain/d_series_sawchain.htm
There is no Gold-Colored ID Link on the stock Craftsman chain, but again, it says 72V, which is supposed to be a D-series Vanguard chain.
Soo...I got a 20" D series from Tractor Supply. It's a bit long...but the bar can be adjusted to take it. Barely. I can get it tighter than you need it to be, though...so it seems OK. It moves freely, doesn't seem like there's anything wrong with it...
I ran the saw, nothing unusual. I can see the oil around the bar, so I know it's getting lubed. It doesn't spray out the tip as much like the old chain does...is this a potential lubrication problem?
I haven't cut anything with it yet, or run it for any length of time. I'm kind of paranoid about it. Should I be? I'm a noob, so with it not being an exact replacement, I'm a little nervous that I might be doing something wrong.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/outdoo...-reg-20-in-vanguard-premium-saw-chain-4435736
^That's the chain I bought for it.
So, what do you guys think?
joecool85
Addicted to ArboristSite
Run it, you'll be fine.
Jerry King
ArboristSite Lurker
I found going to a local shop that only sales and will service outdoor equipment will get you what you need. I did try Home Depot china chain and took it back the next day, went over to my local store showed him my chain and told him I wanted a NoN kickback safe chain and now have a very nice 26$ chisel chain that cuts great. I will make my next order now that I know what chain to get from Baileys.
Jerry King
ArboristSite Lurker
I went to my local independent dealer and got a D70 Oregon chain in Hagerstown MD about 40 miles NW from silver springs MD. they have about every type of chain you want, at least do far. Called Baer .
IndianaJohn
New Member
I am new here, but have owned this saw for about 3 months. I heat with wood and have put this through the ropes since I bought it. I'm actually pretty happy with it so far. It seems well made, especially for $200, and doesn't bog down.
Just my 2 cents.
Just my 2 cents.
Carl Anderson
ArboristSite Operative
I'm all set in the 50cc saw department but I do hope this is a good saw for those of you who get one. I disagree with the guy who said pro grade has more to do with maintenance. There are definite differences in parts and build quality but I get his point that if you don't abuse your equipment a less expensive saw can last a long time and perform well for the average guy and I do agree with that.
I love Craftsman hand tools but I shy away from any of their power tools, gas or electric. It would be really cool of this saw ends up being a good homeowner or even landowner grade saw to redeam the Craftsman name a bit. Honestly I didn't need the pro grade saw I bought, just decied to treat myself for once, otherwise I would have been looking for something in this price range give or take a few bucks. This saw looks good for the money if it proves to hold up over time ($220 when I clicked on the link, maybe a regional price difference). Thanks to everyone who is adding info on it, keep it coming! I didn't see a Craftsman Pro saw anywhere on the Sears website, I'm curious about it if it is really made by Solo.
I love Craftsman hand tools but I shy away from any of their power tools, gas or electric. It would be really cool of this saw ends up being a good homeowner or even landowner grade saw to redeam the Craftsman name a bit. Honestly I didn't need the pro grade saw I bought, just decied to treat myself for once, otherwise I would have been looking for something in this price range give or take a few bucks. This saw looks good for the money if it proves to hold up over time ($220 when I clicked on the link, maybe a regional price difference). Thanks to everyone who is adding info on it, keep it coming! I didn't see a Craftsman Pro saw anywhere on the Sears website, I'm curious about it if it is really made by Solo.
Handyman163
New Member
Lowes sells this same saw as a Poulan Pro 5020. This one had a plastic clutch side cover though in the familiar PoulanPro yellow and black.
I don't understand why they market these things with such a long bar. It seems like it would be a lot more powerful with an 18" bar.
I don't understand why they market these things with such a long bar. It seems like it would be a lot more powerful with an 18" bar.
zogger
Tree Freak
Looking forward to one
I'm actually looking forward to when these models (either craftsman or poulan, don't care either way) start showing up cheaper/used on craigslist. I'll get one then. I'm digging the older mag poulans, but I can also see it is going to get real hard real soon to get adequate replacement parts for them as well. Maybe by next summer they will start showing up under one hundred bucks, then negotiate from there.
I'm actually looking forward to when these models (either craftsman or poulan, don't care either way) start showing up cheaper/used on craigslist. I'll get one then. I'm digging the older mag poulans, but I can also see it is going to get real hard real soon to get adequate replacement parts for them as well. Maybe by next summer they will start showing up under one hundred bucks, then negotiate from there.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Becasue it works fine. My 46cc Poulan pulls its 20" bar very well, so there certainly no reason a 50cc would have a problem with it. This has become a kind of standard comment, and I'm not sure where it comes from. If you're a pro doing production cutting, then relatively minor cutting speed differences might be important, but otherwise I don't get it. The reality for anyone doing clean up and firewood cutting is that the part where you run the saw is probably 15% of the job time. Far more is spent hauling, splitting and cleaning up the junk. So what difference does, say 10% of 15% of the job matter? I dunno, maybe it's just regurgitated marketing hype to sell people up to bigger and more expensive saws.
Carl Anderson
ArboristSite Operative
I agree for the most part. I think a 16" bar is ideal for a 46cc saw but no reason you can't run a 18" or even 20" bar if you're not looking for maximum cutting speed, like you said, the average guy might not even notice. I like the 18" narrow kerf .325 bar/chain on my 50cc Husky 346xp. It's balanced well, not nose heavy, still cuts really fast and gives me enough reach without being too long and getting in the way dragging it around the woods. I just don't bury it in big hardwood and expect it to cut super fast. It still cuts very well but it's also a pretty hot little saw, it better be for what I paid for it. I had a 50cc Jonsered 2050 turbo before which was a great saw but the 346 smokes it big time, it's a screamer.
Now my dad's 40cc or 42cc Poulan Pro didn't do well with the 18" bar for him. He found it unbalanced and nose heavy which made it hard for him to use. I was going to get him a 14" bar like his old saw but he wanted a 16" so I got him that, much better than the 18" for him with that particular saw. I know it's only 2 inches but I really did notice the difference in balance and handling as does my dad. Now if he can only get the stupid Poulan gas cap to stop swelling up from the ethanol so he can get it off without a monkey wrench he'd be all set.
I do think there is a lot of marketing to the homeowner involved with these saws. Bigger bar is better right? Well it sells more saws. Just like box stores selling cheap lawn tractors with 24 horse engines. Not necessary but it sells more lawn tractors.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Just order a replacement - they're a couple of bucks and the last one I got did not have the swelling problem. Maybe it was just chance, but they may have changed the material.
Carl Anderson
ArboristSite Operative
We bought two spare caps and he has to rotate them to dry out so the swelling goes down and they are usable again.
The long story behind that is this - I called Poulan and they were quite rude and not helpful at all. Basically they said they would not send a new gas cap and I could buy another one or two and rotate them to let them dry out but it was not going to be any different, they have not changed the material despite knowing it doesn't work right for over 11 years - their words, not mine. I laid into them pretty good that they would keep using gas caps that they know darn well have big problems - safety problems from spilling gas because you can't close them properly half the time. There are threads out here about this issue.
By then I was speaking to a manager and explained to him that the flippy gas cap on my Stihl weed whacker wasn't right and before I even got to call the dealer I got a recall notice from Stihl and a hastle free replacement from the dealer and an apology from Stihl. I also explained how my Husqvarna dealer gladly swapped my bar/chain on my new saw after I brought it home when I decided I'd rather have the .325 narrow kerf. I asked how come they were so helpful, even when they didn't have to be, and Poulan service sucks. His response was, and I quote, "Well sir, this isn't Stihl or Husqvarna. Stihl and Husqvarna are different kinds of products than what we produce."
Now Poulan and Husqvarna are still owned by the same parent company I think but clearly very different products and different support. So there it is, straight from the horse's mouth (or maybe the other end), Poulan admits to being a second or third rate product compared to Stihl and Husqvarna. Now we all know this already but to have Poulan actually come right out and say it is pretty bad IMHO. Not to say that Poulan doesn't make an OK saw for the homeowner market and it's priced to reflect that it is not a Stihl or Husky, but I just can't believe they basically said, yeah we suck, sorry without at least trying to defend their products and service.
I wasn't even trying to say that Poulan should be as good as Husky or Stihl (or Dolmar, Solo, Efco, etc). I understand that they can't be for the price they sell Poulan saws for. I was just trying to get them to replace a clearly defective part that causes a potentially dangerous situation, not to mention the green people are gonna get mad from all the gas being spilled.
The long story behind that is this - I called Poulan and they were quite rude and not helpful at all. Basically they said they would not send a new gas cap and I could buy another one or two and rotate them to let them dry out but it was not going to be any different, they have not changed the material despite knowing it doesn't work right for over 11 years - their words, not mine. I laid into them pretty good that they would keep using gas caps that they know darn well have big problems - safety problems from spilling gas because you can't close them properly half the time. There are threads out here about this issue.
By then I was speaking to a manager and explained to him that the flippy gas cap on my Stihl weed whacker wasn't right and before I even got to call the dealer I got a recall notice from Stihl and a hastle free replacement from the dealer and an apology from Stihl. I also explained how my Husqvarna dealer gladly swapped my bar/chain on my new saw after I brought it home when I decided I'd rather have the .325 narrow kerf. I asked how come they were so helpful, even when they didn't have to be, and Poulan service sucks. His response was, and I quote, "Well sir, this isn't Stihl or Husqvarna. Stihl and Husqvarna are different kinds of products than what we produce."
Now Poulan and Husqvarna are still owned by the same parent company I think but clearly very different products and different support. So there it is, straight from the horse's mouth (or maybe the other end), Poulan admits to being a second or third rate product compared to Stihl and Husqvarna. Now we all know this already but to have Poulan actually come right out and say it is pretty bad IMHO. Not to say that Poulan doesn't make an OK saw for the homeowner market and it's priced to reflect that it is not a Stihl or Husky, but I just can't believe they basically said, yeah we suck, sorry without at least trying to defend their products and service.
I wasn't even trying to say that Poulan should be as good as Husky or Stihl (or Dolmar, Solo, Efco, etc). I understand that they can't be for the price they sell Poulan saws for. I was just trying to get them to replace a clearly defective part that causes a potentially dangerous situation, not to mention the green people are gonna get mad from all the gas being spilled.
Last edited:
zogger
Tree Freak
caps
I haven't followed the swelling gas cap issue at all. Does it reflect the use of all fuel, or just ethanol degraded fuel? If just the crap fuel, and your needs for that particular saw are modest, just run the canned pre mix stuff, it works good and stores a long time. Ya spendy, but if only a gallon or two a year not that bad, plus eliminates several hassles.
Also, those caps, are they vented, or just solid with an O ring? If solid, you could always start with a non swollen cap and slip some plastic over the opening then screw it on. Or how about this, take some gas proof sealer and seal a new cap, let it dry, then use it, something like some gasket in a tube stuff? Maybe the same stuff guys use to run gasketless cylinders. Or something, got to be some chemical out there you could coat the caps with.
It sure would be nice if Poulan had a change of management and decided to compete again and make even better saws, while trying to keep a more competitive lower price point, if you see what I am driving at. Inexpensive, but still plenty good. Fixing little things like that would be a good start and simply can't cost that much on a per saw basis.
Seems weird, but with saws, apparently no real mid range brand, you have cheap or expensive, but no middle ground. Could be a real good niche for some company to take a crack at filling.
I haven't followed the swelling gas cap issue at all. Does it reflect the use of all fuel, or just ethanol degraded fuel? If just the crap fuel, and your needs for that particular saw are modest, just run the canned pre mix stuff, it works good and stores a long time. Ya spendy, but if only a gallon or two a year not that bad, plus eliminates several hassles.
Also, those caps, are they vented, or just solid with an O ring? If solid, you could always start with a non swollen cap and slip some plastic over the opening then screw it on. Or how about this, take some gas proof sealer and seal a new cap, let it dry, then use it, something like some gasket in a tube stuff? Maybe the same stuff guys use to run gasketless cylinders. Or something, got to be some chemical out there you could coat the caps with.
It sure would be nice if Poulan had a change of management and decided to compete again and make even better saws, while trying to keep a more competitive lower price point, if you see what I am driving at. Inexpensive, but still plenty good. Fixing little things like that would be a good start and simply can't cost that much on a per saw basis.
Seems weird, but with saws, apparently no real mid range brand, you have cheap or expensive, but no middle ground. Could be a real good niche for some company to take a crack at filling.
Similar threads
- Locked
