550xp vs 346xp

[Tzed250]

Mine started off with some of the same issues. Give it a few tanks and cut a few minutes under load. The quickest way to improve your saw is a muff mod. It'll REALLY wake it up. Tzed250 does a excellent job on the 550xp.

Thank you Jeff!

Great, thanks for the reassurance guys, can't wait to do some real work with it, when I was out there testing it, it was pouring rain, and I was in non cutting clothes/safety gear, just could not resist. Love the weight, balance, power so far.

One other thing if somebody can confirm or deny, that the tech pointed out, is that the coil and carb must be matched in AutoTune saws - (tech mentioned this as another downside, these guys were really painfully honest I gues, which I kinda appreciate instead of blowing smoke up my azz) - said with the 562 AutoTune there was 5 revisions of the carb and you could not mismatch coil revision/version- so basically the way it has been is that if you need to replace the carb then you also have to replace the coil. Hope to never replace either, but thought I just throw that out there..

BTW can I join this 550xp group now? :msp_biggrin:

You are invited!

On a ported 550 .325 8p is faster than .325 7p. 3/8 square chisel on a 7 pin is even faster.

 

[Hermann]

Thanks for the invite - Joined! I am particularly interested in the diagnostic software/cable - I will probably take that up over there..

Ran about a tank and half through it today - sips fuel, so it took a while!

I had one issue when I went to start it after it cooled down fully, after running it for a couple hours, I flooded it!, must have missed the pop with open throttle choke setting?? - removed the plug, it was a little dark - took a few pulls to un-flood, then it restarted pretty easy. I almost wondering if it starts easier without the decomp valve in..

Besides that, it seems to be improving, I have been starting it a lot - just to test it out further, not sure if that is helping or hurting it. The advice on running on high idle for a bit improved things, AutoTune is still finding itself during idle, when in wood everything is good though.

Did find this about Engine Adjustment in manual - which the tech mentioned:

"The following steps should be taken when the chain saw
is started for the first time or when outside circumstances
change (fuel, altitude, air filter etc.): Start the engine.
Accelerate the engine to full throttle and saw a number of
cuts in a thick log (3-5 min.).
The chain saw must be run (8,000 - 12,000 rpm) the entire
time so that the carburettor can adjust itself"

Think I will try it in some red oak tomorrow.

 

[TK]

Thanks for the invite - Joined! I am particularly interested in the diagnostic software/cable - I will probably take that up over there..

Ran about a tank and half through it today - sips fuel, so it took a while!

I had one issue when I went to start it after it cooled down fully, after running it for a couple hours, I flooded it!, must have missed the pop with open throttle choke setting?? - removed the plug, it was a little dark - took a few pulls to un-flood, then it restarted pretty easy. I almost wondering if it starts easier without the decomp valve in..

Besides that, it seems to be improving, I have been starting it a lot - just to test it out further, not sure if that is helping or hurting it. The advice on running on high idle for a bit improved things, AutoTune is still finding itself during idle, when in wood everything is good though.

Did find this about Engine Adjustment in manual - which the tech mentioned:

"The following steps should be taken when the chain saw
is started for the first time or when outside circumstances
change (fuel, altitude, air filter etc.): Start the engine.
Accelerate the engine to full throttle and saw a number of
cuts in a thick log (3-5 min.).
The chain saw must be run (8,000 - 12,000 rpm) the entire
time so that the carburettor can adjust itself"

Think I will try it in some red oak tomorrow.

You don't have to do that unless you are above 3000ft altitude. All autotune saws are factory set from 0-3000ft so that procedure is unnecessary except in the case of a new carb or at module reset. Dealer should know and tell you that.

 

[mtrees]

You don't have to do that unless you are above 3000ft altitude. All autotune saws are factory set from 0-3000ft so that procedure is unnecessary except in the case of a new carb or at module reset. Dealer should know and tell you that.

Good to know thank you TK.

 

[Hermann]

You don't have to do that unless you are above 3000ft altitude. All autotune saws are factory set from 0-3000ft so that procedure is unnecessary except in the case of a new carb or at module reset. Dealer should know and tell you that.

Thanks, I don't think my Dealer knew that, we are not over 3000 feet around here, kinda wish he just gave me the saw in the box after hearing this.

I ran a few more tanks today, a lot with it buried in red oak. Still finding itself a bit, no starting issues, again once it gets going under load it's fine, always fires when hot with a light short pull. You guys run 89 or 91/93 octane in this? For all my older saws I was told to use mid grade 89, does it matter in stock form?

 

[TK]

Thanks, I don't think my Dealer knew that, we are not over 3000 feet around here, kinda wish he just gave me the saw in the box after hearing this.

I ran a few more tanks today, a lot with it buried in red oak. Still finding itself a bit, no starting issues, again once it gets going under load it's fine, always fires when hot with a light short pull. You guys run 89 or 91/93 octane in this? For all my older saws I was told to use mid grade 89, does it matter in stock form?

Husky recommends minimum 89 octane. Dealers are technically supposed to fire the machine and go over operation before giving it to the customer, selling right outta the box is a no-no except on pre-assembled box store models.