550xp vs 346xp

[sunfish]

I think the .325 would definitely shine a lot better if it were fitted with an 8-pin rim. These things are hard to slow down. As much as I'd like to keep 3/8 chain on my saw I'm really thinking about putting .325 back on there just to see how much faster the 8-pin would be. And I don't mean see IF it's faster, but rather how much faster it IS

.325 works better for me on the 346's.

But haven't tried a 8 pin, need to do that soon.

 

[Hermann]

Well, picked up my 550xp today, took home in non work clothes and could not put help cutting whatever was around - light and strong little bugger for sure - getting some clean shoes, pants and shirt dirty. There was one glitch, when I started it at dealer for first time and hit the gas it died several times - hope this is not a bad omen, tech said he went through break in procedure of putting it under load for 7 minutes, which of course required cutting some wood, and said they never do this with non AutoTune saws - he also expressed again, that this was new technology, still believes in the older stuff and so on.. .. then said you need to give it full throttle after starting - think he was grasping for excuses a bit there to explain why after start and a little gas it died.. not sure what this break in period was all about or if he did it correctly, I started it a few times here and it still bogs a bit when given gas and not under any load, when I was cutting wood, it was a screamer for sure, and did not die when throttled, I quickly went to a 20 inch red oak stump and started cutting cookies, with bar buried it stopped the chain a few times but it was rather impressive none the less.. Should I be worried? any recommendations on break in or about this AutoTune setup/break-in/training the tech was talking about - running it under load for 7 minutes straight with no letup? See nothing in manual about it, Going to try to use it a lot soon, if there are issues want them resolved!

 

[komatsuvarna]

Well, picked up my 550xp today, took home in non work clothes and could not put help cutting whatever was around - light and strong little bugger for sure - getting some clean shoes, pants and shirt dirty. There was one glitch, when I started it at dealer for first time and hit the gas it died several times - hope this is not a bad omen, tech said he went through break in procedure of putting it under load for 7 minutes, which of course required cutting some wood, they never do this with non AutoTune - he also expressed again, that this was new technology, still believes in the older stuff and so on.. .. then said you need to give it full throttle after starting - think he was grasping for excuses a bit there to explain after start and a little gas it died.. not sure what this break in period was all about or if he did it correctly, I started it a few times here and it still bogs a bit when given gas and not under any load, when I was cutting wood, it was a screamer for sure, I quickly went to a 20 inch red oak stump and started cutting cookies, with bar buried it stopped the chain a few times but it was rather impressive none the less.. Should I be worried? any recommendations on break in or about this AutoTune setup the tech was talking about - running it under load for 7 minutes straight with no letup? See nothing in manual about it, Going to try to use it a lot soon, if there are issues want them resolved!

It'll get better with time. Use the high idle setting when starting cold and let it run for a few seconds before you ''blip'' it off. Mine acted weird for a bit, but after 5 tanks its mostly gone. I dunno about the 7 minute thing though..... I just run mine like a saw .

Run the piss outta it and I'd say it'll be good.

 

[komatsuvarna]

BTW.........

































































HOORAY 3/8s!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:msp_sneaky:

 

[Joe Kidd]

Mine started off with some of the same issues. Give it a few tanks and cut a few minutes under load. The quickest way to improve your saw is a muff mod. It'll REALLY wake it up. Tzed250 does a excellent job on the 550xp.

 

[Hermann]

Great, thanks for the reassurance guys, can't wait to do some real work with it, when I was out there testing it, it was pouring rain, and I was in non cutting clothes/safety gear, just could not resist. Love the weight, balance, power so far.

One other thing if somebody can confirm or deny, that the tech pointed out, is that the coil and carb must be matched in AutoTune saws - (tech mentioned this as another downside, these guys were really painfully honest I gues, which I kinda appreciate instead of blowing smoke up my azz) - said with the 562 AutoTune there was 5 revisions of the carb and you could not mismatch coil revision/version- so basically the way it has been is that if you need to replace the carb then you also have to replace the coil. Hope to never replace either, but thought I just throw that out there..

BTW can I join this 550xp group now? :msp_biggrin:

 

[lmbrman]

I think the .325 would definitely shine a lot better if it were fitted with an 8-pin rim. These things are hard to slow down. As much as I'd like to keep 3/8 chain on my saw I'm really thinking about putting .325 back on there just to see how much faster the 8-pin would be. And I don't mean see IF it's faster, but rather how much faster it IS

Jake(chainsawnut460) and i went back and forth many times on our ported 346/2153. We did a lot of timed cuts, and the 3/8 was faster on both our saws. Granted, they are both ported. I left my 550 with 325 and have no plans to port it, so will leave it for now and I suspect the 550 stock will not pull the 3/8 the way my ported 346 does. Not a fair comparasion anyway I guess.

Curious how others fair with different setups, so glad to hear comments before i experiment. I especially value your comments TK, hope this does not sound otherwise.

-dave

 

[Jet47]

Mine had similar issues.
Agree with letting it run on the high idle for a few seconds.
Agree with the muff mod. You won't believe it's the same saw.

 

[TK]

I have the 3/8's on my saw and have no complaints as of yet. I was more curious than anything about it running the .325 8-pin. I think there's a lot to be had there involving chain speed. But - over and over the 3/8 has been proven faster lol so I dunno why I wanna try it out.


To address the coil/carb situation. Yes, they are matched. It sounds like this guy knows enough to get in trouble and that's about it. Coils are lifetime warranted or up to 7 years past the last year that model was manufactured. If the coil ever fails, ya get a new one. If they don't make the same coil anymore, ya get a new carb with it as its not your fault they have to match. Same goes with the carb. If ya need a new carb and a new coil tags along - either the carb is covered under warranty or you have to pay for it depending on age, but you don't get stuck paying for the coil, as its warranted and again it's not your fault they are paired. And the autotune carburetor is cheaper in quite a few instances than standard carbs. When you buy the carb, you get a new electronic module with it, package deal, one price. So don't worry about it, you're covered. You won't have any hidden or extra expenses when repair time comes.

Word of advice - warm up the saw before you go blipping away or try to cut. The saw will be fine. If you fire it and want to just hammer away, you won't like it. It's good for the saw anyway to warm it up.

 

[Hermann]

Thanks TK for the great info on the coil/carb/warranty, and I agree full throttle on a cold saw or any engine for that matter never sounds like a good idea..

 

[lmbrman]

well, i guess when i decide to clean my 550 i can switch to 3/8 for the heck of it

I would be real happy to use 3/8 as i have several rolls of it. Not that i really want to simplify things cause if I did I would sell half my saws

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I think the .325 would definitely shine a lot better if it were fitted with an 8-pin rim. These things are hard to slow down. As much as I'd like to keep 3/8 chain on my saw I'm really thinking about putting .325 back on there just to see how much faster the 8-pin would be. And I don't mean see IF it's faster, but rather how much faster it IS

I'd almost bet the house the woods ported 550 I test run with 325 had a 8T on it, knowing the owner. :msp_tongue:

Every 50cc stock and woods ported 346 I have tested with has always cut faster with 3/8. Now stock 45cc 325, my 2 woods ported 45cc 3/8. :msp_razz:

 

[PLAYINWOOD]

I'd almost bet the house the woods ported 550 I test run with 325 had a 8T on it, knowing the owner. :msp_tongue:

Every 50cc stock and woods ported 346 I have tested with has always cut faster with 3/8. Now stock 45cc 325, my 2 woods ported 45cc 3/8. :msp_razz:

A stop watch will prove 3/8ths is faster everytime, 8t 9 t or 7 t or even 12t, it matters not.

 

[sunfish]

My ported 346 OE was one second slower with 3/8" compared to .325. Checked with stop watch at gtg last year.

Durand's 346 with 20" 3/8 was faster though. :msp_confused: :msp_ohmy:

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

My ported 346 OE was one second slower with 3/8" compared to .325. Checked with stop watch at gtg last year.

Durand's 346 with 20" 3/8 was faster though. :msp_confused: :msp_ohmy:

I would bet your transfers or exhaust are to high then or a combination . Both of my 45cc OE were faster with 3/8. One with 346 stock carb other with 357 carb.

I had a 026 that the transfers were to high in with pop up piston D combustion chamber etc and it pulled 325 faster because it didnt have THE BALLS aka torque to pull 3/8. :msp_tongue:

 

[sunfish]

I would bet your transfers or exhaust are to high then or a combination . Both of my 45cc OE were faster with 3/8. One with 346 stock carb other with 357 carb.

I had a 026 that the transfers were to high in with pop up piston D combustion chamber etc and it pulled 325 faster because it didnt have THE BALLS aka torque to pull 3/8. :msp_tongue:

Was my first port job, didn't raise exhaust, but did raise transfers a bit. Widened intake/exhaust, opened up lowers, dropped gasket, 165 psi. 357 carb/intake.

This saw has a ton of hours on it, is very strong and cuts very fast. My plan was to experiment with porting. Then put a 50cc top-end on it, but it really runs too well to do that just yet. I'll be keeping .325 on it a while longer...

 

[Joe Kidd]

Some would also say "One second faster? big deal" But if running a few different saws, all on 3/8", it sure is easy to sharpen and not have to setup on a different pitch. I might have to try 3/8" on my 550!

 

[Mastermind]

I would bet your transfers or exhaust are to high then or a combination . Both of my 45cc OE were faster with 3/8. One with 346 stock carb other with 357 carb.

I had a 026 that the transfers were to high in with pop up piston D combustion chamber etc and it pulled 325 faster because it didnt have THE BALLS aka torque to pull 3/8. :msp_tongue:

Uggg

Saw speak.

I've been really studying transfer height these last few months......let's just say different configurations run better with vastly different numbers.....

 

[PLAYINWOOD]

I would bet your transfers or exhaust are to high then or a combination . Both of my 45cc OE were faster with 3/8. One with 346 stock carb other with 357 carb.

I had a 026 that the transfers were to high in with pop up piston D combustion chamber etc and it pulled 325 faster because it didnt have THE BALLS aka torque to pull 3/8. :msp_tongue:

Bang on!!!!!
Its the RPMs in the wood not out of it.

 

[sunfish]

Uggg

Saw speak.

I've been really studying transfer height these last few months......let's just say different configurations run better with vastly different numbers.....

Raising the transfers a little on mine made more torque & wider power band, or so it feels...
:msp_mellow: