55psi with new piston???

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I'm starting to doubt my gauge. I have a press in style at home. My work gauge is old and has a soft hose. It has always worked on cars, but you're displacing a lot more air in a car cylinder.

I think you might be on the right track. Put that baby back together and run it. If it runs good, you'll know your guage is bad.
 
Ring gap is the same all the way up the cylinder. The decomp seems to be closed and nothing in it. I'll throw it together and see what happens.
 
Just a thought but you tightened your cylinder down all the way first right? If not then it would have too much squish. You said it wasn't totally assembled first so just checking.

John
 
Take the piston ring off and drop the piston in to the jug with your finge over the spark plug hole - the piston should slide slowly toward the spark plug hole.
Place the ring in the jug and check the end gap, 5 thou is good, 10 thou is getting too big.

I reckon your gauge is bad or the piston is 1mm undersize (an incorrect one)- could be the wrist pin to piston crown being wrong. Check it against the old one.

A new piston without a ring should get to 50 - 60 PSI:dizzy:

Spud
 
Take the piston ring off and drop the piston in to the jug with your finge over the spark plug hole - the piston should slide slowly toward the spark plug hole.
Place the ring in the jug and check the end gap, 5 thou is good, 10 thou is getting too big.

I reckon your gauge is bad or the piston is 1mm undersize (an incorrect one)- could be the wrist pin to piston crown being wrong. Check it against the old one.

A new piston without a ring should get to 50 - 60 PSI:dizzy:

Spud

called piston height, i thought someone mentioned that earlier, but good point.
 
I didn't measure squish. I plan on tearing this saw back down later to try my hand at some porting. I figured I'd do more measuring then. I just wanted to get it running. I got it to fire earlier on carb cleaner into the plug hole. There was very little fuel in the tank. I haven't had a chance to mess with it any more. I don't know what exactly caused the piston failure. The saw was given to me by a friend who got it from another friend. I can only assume it was run on straight gas. I want to try another compression reading with my hold in gauge as opposed to my old thread in one. Anyway, I'll update as soon as I have a chance to mess with it further.
 
You did get a 45mm piston for a 353 didn't you? A 45mm piston for a 51 has different specificatons, i.e. pin height etc.
 
I pulled it back down. The ring gap is about .018 and the piston looks to be the right size. I can't get a .015 feeler between the piston and cylinder wall. Granted, this is at the base of the cylinder. The ring is in good shape, not cracked. I haven't put a bore gauge in to check if the top of the cylinder is enlarged do to the previous piston damage.

Stock/new clearance, at the base/skirt should be about 0.004". On yours with 0.015" on the skirt, with new rings, after seating, will run good until the piston, grenades [Usually broken skirt or seize due to a "rocking" piston]........how long????....... days, weeks, years (if you cut a few tanks a year),........

Don't have a manual but 0.018 seems a bit much too on the rings............

Is this a Keeper or a pass on/selling.

That's just what I think............everybody else can comment some more.....
 
Stock/new clearance, at the base/skirt should be about 0.004". On yours with 0.015" on the skirt, with new rings, after seating, will run good until the piston, grenades [Usually broken skirt or seize due to a "rocking" piston]........how long????....... days, weeks, years (if you cut a few tanks a year),........

Don't have a manual but 0.018 seems a bit much too on the rings............

Is this a Keeper or a pass on/selling.

That's just what I think............everybody else can comment some more.....

He said he CAN'T get a .015 feeler guage in there.
 
Well, as I suspected there is a gauge issue with my other gauge. The press in type has a schrader on the tip. I pulled with it several times and I have 125psi. Still not great I suppose, but it should run. However, it still does not. I have to do some further diag tomorrow. I also need to replace the primer hose to the tank prior to any further work... leaking lots o gas.
 
I suspect some kind of ignition issue now. I am getting a wet plug but it never seems to fire. I pulled the recoil and I couldn't see the ignition due to so much grime in there. I don't know why I didn't notice this earlier when I was blowing everything off. Anyway, I blew all the grime off with compressed air. I don't know how much this grime would affect the magneto operation, but I know it can't help. I'll try tomorrow after I replace the leaking primer hose.
 
Well, as I suspected there is a gauge issue with my other gauge. The press in type has a schrader on the tip. I pulled with it several times and I have 125psi. Still not great I suppose, but it should run. However, it still does not. I have to do some further diag tomorrow. I also need to replace the primer hose to the tank prior to any further work... leaking lots o gas.

im not an expert, but wont that create a massive air leak? That may be why it wont run. My buddy's trimmer wouldnt run with the primer bulb busted.
 
The primer is ok. The hose that connects it to the tank was swelled at the tank nipple. I trimmed enough off to get it to grab better, but I think now the hose is too short. It pulled off while I was trying to start the saw earlier. I need to get a new piece of hose. I looks to be clear hose like what I can get at the hardware store. I imagine I am wrong, though, and it will have to be a special fuel grade hose from a small engine shop. Anyone?
 
If you have a local Husqvarna dealer, you should be able to get the OEM fuel line for less than $5, while you're at it I would get a new filter too. If no husky dealer is close, get the right size tygon fuel line which should be available from any small engine shop. Be sure and check all lines, the impulse line is kind of under everything and on the carb boot. It is probably shown in the service manual.
 
Ok, I'm at a complete loss here. I replaced the primer fuel line today. I drained the tank and looked long & hard at the fuel hose inside. I couldn't see any flaws, so I opted to leave it alone. I checked the air gap of the magneto, set it with a .3 mm feeler. I pull the rope and seem to have a good spark with the plug laying on the cylinder. The plugs are getting wet, so I believe I'm getting fuel as well. I've even tried spraying carb cleaner directly into the cylinder. I don't get so much as a sputter. Compression reads 125 psi. I am using the same gas that I have been running my 359 on. I've tried several plugs to no avail. My only thought is ignition timing. Can these flywheels spin? Is there a key or something like on a 4 stroke that can be giving me spark at the incorrect time. Help, I'm ready to shotput this saw into the next block.
 

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