562xp Hesitation Question

[Locust Cutter]

Hamish,
I'd truly love to get it plugged in and checked. I just don't think I should bear the entire bill but have no alternative w/o the receipt, locally anyway. I doubt my saw has 9 hours of run-time at this point and it's only mod is a Mooberized muffler, which changed it's over-all performance but not it's habits. I don't want a different saw I just want mine to idle and accelerate properly. A better set of spikes and a roller catcher would be alright... LOL

 

[Pud]

All got the same story as me , mine ran great when i got it then after id put a couple chains on it the flat spot stall started happening and same as the other guys said only when its hot , i worked at a husky shop part time up until a couple months ago and its had a few carbs carby kit coils ive taken carbs of good running saws tried all the updates vac pressure tested and will agree with hamish there is alot of them and suppost to be the cure and actually are straight after u update they run great but after 2 tanks or so of fuel the flat spot ALWAYS comes back , i dunno what the tech guys are like at husky in other countries but they had no answers just new carb or coil , i actually did what mastermind does and put the original el44 back on doesnt run great but is bearable almost , every single autotune saw i have used runs great on the high end and i can only think of 1 that idles and is properly responsive so i dunno can they actually tune the low speed or get lost somehow can someone find one that runs properly and plug it in to see where it low speed is set at for us to compare ?? I also remember looking at the maximum carb temp on mine and nearly died they get seriously hot over hear vapor lock fuel boiling hot , anyway i found a fix that that solves the problem once and for all and will work for everyone else!!

 

[gunrush128]

It's certainly a hassle. I thought I got a great deal on my saw for only $580 shipped. Now I've spent an additional $80 on an EL48, and still have to deal with getting it programmed. What a pain! This is one of the reasons I waited so long to mess with this series. Once I get this one sorted out, I'm done. If I were a dealer, had the service tool, and access to the software, that would be different. But I'm not. It's not worth it to me to mess with them, so not worth it to buy the tool for this one saw.

I'm in the exact same boat. I thought I got a great deal on the saw but now I after buying an EL48, I need to find a dealer that's willing/able to upload the latest software.
Does anybody know if the upload will require the whole saw, or can I just bring in the carb?
What a PITA!


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[tlandrum]

Terry,
What would you charge me to take a look at mine and fix it? I will try to get a duplicate receipt from my dealer to prove the purchase date and the reader will tell the rest of the story for run-time etc.

if your saw is under warranty send it to me and ill fix it under warranty at no cost just like any reputable dealer should do and you pay nothing but shipping.

 

[Mastermind]

if your saw is under warranty send it to me and ill fix it under warranty at no cost just like any reputable dealer should do and you pay nothing but shipping.

Repped

 

[CJ1]

Funny I posted a number of months ago with the same problems with at least 3 new 562's, Hammy blasted me and the dealer on that, then when I asked about the crank bearing issue on the 372/365's I got the same questioning, a couple weeks later a dealer confirmed the problem was a install issue. It's like the same M/O time and time again. CJ

 

[Termite]

I do the same swap but I also do the el48 upgrade as well. some of the el46 carbs definitely have a problem. one thing I cant figure out is why some of them develop the problem later. it seems if it was just a bad carb it would be from the start. I really think the programing from the el46 fits the el44 much better.

Why the problem develops over time and not right away is a good question. And why mine only does it after being heat soaked and doesn't act up immediately after a restart?

 

[Terry Syd]

I also remember looking at the maximum carb temp on mine and nearly died they get seriously hot over hear vapor lock fuel boiling hot , anyway i found a fix that that solves the problem once and for all and will work for everyone else!!

"Maximum carb temp"? So what does the software do, record the maximum temperature during a run?

What was the fix that you found that solves the problem?

 

[Pud]

"Maximum carb temp"? So what does the software do, record
What was the fix that you found that solves the problem?

not sure why but does record maximum carb temp yes , and it was a ms461 that solved the problem for me

 

[gunrush128]

My EL48 arrived today...

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[Mastermind]

I heard a EL48 horror story today........

 

[cityboy172]

I heard a EL48 horror story today........

 

[gunrush128]

It definitely looks like the throttle plate has changed. There is also a plug on the on the new carb(intake side), that wasn't on the el46

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[gunrush128]

I heard a EL48 horror story today........

Do tell....


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[Terry Syd]

not sure why but does record maximum carb temp yes , and it was a ms461 that solved the problem for me

Aww, don't be cagey, give us the low down on the MS461 fix for the 562...

Or did you mean you sold the 562 and bought a MS461. In which case, you have moved on from parts swapping to saw swapping to fix a problem.

 

[Mastermind]

Do tell....


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I'll let the feller that told me spill it.......if he wants it spilled.

 

[boxygen]

I'll let the feller that told me spill it.......if he wants it spilled.

Oh yeah Randy, give everyone blue balls...nice guy

 

[Mastermind]

LMAO

 

[one.man.band]

has anyone who has these problems (out of warranty of course) checked the freaking TPS sensor leads with a voltmeter?

sounds like a bare spot/thin spot on the carbon disk(s).

put the voltmeter on the highest ohm setting. move the throttle butterfly. if it's not a smooth transition in ohm reading through the limit of throttle opening, the sensor is bad. no amount of software can fix that, that i know of.

once you find where a quick drop in ohms is, narrow out where it is exactly on the TPS, by reducing the 'ohms' setting on the voltmeter.

-omb

hope this helps someone.

edit: typing is not my thing.

 

[skylogger]

[emoji32]