650 and 660

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I have found [in my experience] that stihls skip more then husky. I figured this to be due to the smaller chain guide diameter. I also should point out that this is an experience i have had well falling not bucking. I ran 288's with 28 and 066's with 28 as my bread and butter for years. Having said that i like a bit of droop in my chain; just at the point where the chain starts to hang out mid 28 inch bar. I figure i have less chain resistance and more power.

An example of my experiences is I found just the act of larger humbolt pie chunks from 3' dbh trees dropping out could knock my chain off a stihl but I never had that happen with a husky bar & chain. Not really a big deal as it only takes a few seconds to snap the chain back on with a quick bar bend.

If you have never skipped your chain much then your likely lucky to have not spent much time cutting slash alder and other underbrush. [most folks i know generally refer to this as F*k brush becouse thats all one is likely to say well working in it] Does not matter how tight your chain is for that wippy crap
Most of my chain issues have been with cursed Vine Maple the jerkyesd junk i have ever cut it realy hate skip tooth chains.
 
update on chain skipping

In the 1000s of hours i have ran saws don't think I have thrown chains maybe 6 or 7 times usually either hit something or just plain operator error. Don't really buy there is a trend.

Little known fact I learned today well picking up my dolmar 7900 that may explain why in my experiences stihl throwing chains more then the husky; apparently in canada husky saws with 3/8 chain has a .58 guide link width well in the usa the same configured saw, bar and chain would have a .50 [same as stihl]. Here the husky chain will not fit into a stihl bar. Perhaps the wider drive link resists skipping out. I would never have guessed that we use a different size chain then across the line! Also, seems like huskies are far more popular here then stihls when compared to other pacific north west regions.
 
Little known fact I learned today well picking up my dolmar 7900 that may explain why in my experiences stihl throwing chains more then the husky; apparently in canada husky saws with 3/8 chain has a .58 guide link width well in the usa the same configured saw, bar and chain would have a .50 [same as stihl]. Here the husky chain will not fit into a stihl bar. Perhaps the wider drive link resists skipping out. I would never have guessed that we use a different size chain then across the line! Also, seems like huskies are far more popular here then stihls when compared to other pacific north west regions.


Husky 3/8's with .058 gauge is not all that uncommon at all. Around here about all we can ge localy for the Stihls is .063 gauge!
 
Husky 3/8's with .058 gauge is not all that uncommon at all. Around here about all we can ge localy for the Stihls is .063 gauge!

Well that figures, just when I thought I made some amazing discovery. Doesn't really make sense for it to be black and white. Your say, standard stihl 28" bar would accept the .63 guage chain. My stihl bars for my 660, 28" and 36" won't take .58. I watched a guy trying to pound husky 3/8 chain into his stihl a few weeks ago figuring it was a bent driver; He wouldn't listen, I imagine he figured it out eventually. It is a pain as I have a several types of chain around and i would rather have just 2.
 
Well that figures, just when I thought I made some amazing discovery. Doesn't really make sense for it to be black and white. Your say, standard stihl 28" bar would accept the .63 guage chain. My stihl bars for my 660, 28" and 36" won't take .58. I watched a guy trying to pound husky 3/8 chain into his stihl a few weeks ago figuring it was a bent driver; He wouldn't listen, I imagine he figured it out eventually. It is a pain as I have a several types of chain around and i would rather have just 2.

NO no, you misunderstood me!!!! It's a regional thing!!! Most guys on this site all run .050 gauge on all of there saws. Around here (KS) all I can get locally and fast if needed for Stihls is .063 in 3/8's. Stihls gauges are .050 and .063, Huskies are .050 and .058. To kep everything the same, say you buy a roll of chain and want to make them for you're saws, you would set everything up to run 3/8's .050. I wish it was more standardized myself, but it's not.
I have three chains to deal with, Pico micro, it's like 1/4" pitch, for my ms192 (there is also picco micro narrow) .325 .050, and 3/8's .063. Then there is .404, 1/2" rare and 3/4" stupid rare. See how much fun this is?
 
one chain would work for me

right thanks for clarifying. I will take your indirect advice and order .050 chain in the future negating the hassle. Although I wonder if that will lead to, as I suspected, more chain throws. Then again it is not like I'm falling for a living now so I can live with a few extra throws.
 
right thanks for clarifying. I will take your indirect advice and order .050 chain in the future negating the hassle. Although I wonder if that will lead to, as I suspected, more chain throws. Then again it is not like I'm falling for a living now so I can live with a few extra throws.

Again, a little more clarification is needed I see. You order you're bar to match the chain!!! As chain comes in different gauges, so do bars. You want the chain and bar to be the same pitch and gauge, thus no thrown chains, at least not for that reason!! That help clear things up a bit more?
 
I'm reading your mail

Again, a little more clarification is needed I see. You order you're bar to match the chain!!! As chain comes in different gauges, so do bars. You want the chain and bar to be the same pitch and gauge, thus no thrown chains, at least not for that reason!! That help clear things up a bit more?

Yea thanks, but I doubt I will replace my .058 grooved bars untill I have to. I thought running .050 chain in a .058 groove would not be a big deal? Perhaps it is I'll look into it.
 
Yea thanks, but I doubt I will replace my .058 grooved bars untill I have to. I thought running .050 chain in a .058 groove would not be a big deal? Perhaps it is I'll look into it.

They say it will work ok, never tried it. Anothr option is to look a Baileys, there is a link here on AS, at a "bar rail closer" it will take the slack out of the bar and help kep the bar from wearing prematurely. Just a thought.
 
I am learning today

They say it will work ok, never tried it. Anothr option is to look a Baileys, there is a link here on AS, at a "bar rail closer" it will take the slack out of the bar and help kep the bar from wearing prematurely. Just a thought.

I wondered why the heck anyone would buy that thing, figuring if you damaged your bar enouph to squeeze the gap there would be no hope for the bar... now it all makes sense thanks. Thanks
 
derailed thread sorry

I run .063 on bar 32" and over.

to late to stop the derailment now... do you use 404 or stay with 3/8. The bigger stuff I used previously 42 and up was all 404. I would rather stay with 3/8 .050 if it didn't break. Cours I wil not likely buy a bar that big for use around town as 4 or 5 dbh are the biggest ill come across now. [not often at that]
 
I just jumped to the end cause all I gotta say is why in the world would you buy a saw with less power than the 660 but had the same weight?And I sell stihl saws!
 
066 end jumper You!!!!!

I just jumped to the end cause all I gotta say is why in the world would you buy a saw with less power than the 660 but had the same weight?And I sell stihl saws!

To save Money???? ya know if ya look at the torque #'s published by stihl...
They arent that far apart,,,,,, but I like the 066/660's and for another 100 bucks or so it gets my vote!!!!!!
 
It's just if a customers final decision on the 660 comes down to price I can still make that 660 sell!I won't even put a 650 on the display cause I think it is retarded(sorry Adreaus)
 
You can get a 395 husky out of Bailey's for around the same price as a new 650.Then you have a saw that will outcut both.
 

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