66" bar + MS880 = Saw Dust and Slow Cutting. What's wrong?

[PhilB]

Zach,
Thanks for the link.
Phil

 

[JS929]

rip chain works a bit different from normal crosscut chain. You've got clearing cutter teeth and scratcher teeth. The scratcher teeth cut a groove down each side of the cut and the clearing cutters cut the groove of wood left in the middle. The 10 degree angle removes smaller amounts of wood at a time compare to a 30-35 degree crosscut cutter. This will produce dust basically. You'll think it is dull or something is wrong since we all know dust from a crosscut chain means it is butterknife dull.

I use the Granberg file-n-joint sharpener guide to sharpen my rip chains. It works great. The angles are perfect, and it is fast and easy. I am old fashioned and prefer sharpening with files. I see too many folks using grinders to sharpen chains that get those teeth to turn from silver to pretty shades of blue and purple. I'm pretty sure the temper of those cutters are screwed at that point. Personal preference though.

 

[BobL]

rip chain works a bit different from normal crosscut chain. You've got clearing cutter teeth and scratcher teeth. The scratcher teeth cut a groove down each side of the cut and the clearing cutters cut the groove of wood left in the middle.

That's a very special/specific kind of rip chain. Regular rip chain is the same as regular chain and just has a 10º top plate filing angle.

The 10 degree angle removes smaller amounts of wood at a time compare to a 30-35 degree crosscut cutter.

I've done a fair bit of measurement of actual kerf sizes (e.g. http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/real-kerf-sizes.137465/)
My measurements show that on a 3/8" chain the difference between the kerf generated by 10º and 30º top plate filing angles is usually less than 0.01" so less than 3%
The reason for using 10º is usually based on producing a better finish but I've found even that depends more on the operator than anything else