660 in big oak before and after DP muffler

[w8ye]

On MOODY'S vid I can clearly here the 4 stroke before it goes in the wood but after he sinks it in the log I can't really tell. I had my biannual physical for my CDL about 3 weeks ago and my hearing isn't doing so well. Don't know if that's a valid excuse. My doc is recommending more advanced testing and the likelihood of a hearing aid. Nonetheless, I can clearly here it out of the cut, so it must be more discernible before the load is put on it?

Your chainsaw hearing is OK. You just need to learn what you are listening for?

 

[towingace]

Your chainsaw hearing is OK. You just need to learn what you are listening for?

That's what I'm trying to figure out but I must be getting confused with some of the wording. The way Chris-PA explained it is the way I hear it (and tune my saws) but some people refer to the different tone under load. I think I'm not picking up the "different tone" in the wood as clearly as the "four stroking" out of the wood, if that makes any sense. Thanks for the help.

 

[w8ye]

Back in the early 50's my dad told me (right or wrong) that the best way to run a engine (two stroke or four stroke) for maximum power and longevity was just before the break over point of being too rich. I was just a kid but I always tried to run everything that way, lawn mowers, chainsaws, outboard motors, model airplanes, etc,

So what everyone is trying to tell you is that you want to run the chain saw were it sounds rough if not cutting the wood. If you lift up ever so lightly that the engine will sound rough.

Now that is fine and dandy but most saws now days have rpm limiting ignition coils. A chainsaw in rpm limitation sounds rough just like the engine is rich. So I make sure the chainsaw is definitely too rich and then stick the chain in the wood and see if the engine will clean up and run smooth? If not, lean the high speed needle a little to see f it will clean up?

The engine makes the most power while still remaining as cool possible right at this break over point of being too rich.

Now to do this there can not be any limiters on the needles.

 

[Gologit]

Back in the early 50's my dad told me (right or wrong) that the best way to run a engine (two stroke or four stroke) for maximum power and longevity



The engine makes the most power while still remaining as cool possible right at this break over point of being too rich.

Good point. My hearing is very poor...hearing aids in both ears...and I have trouble fine tuning a saw by ear. I'll use a tach for a starting point and then see how it cuts with the bar buried.
I tend to tune rich but that's never seemed to bother any of my saws. I've seen a few blow from being run too lean but never from being run a little rich.

 

[w8ye]

I set my 660 Magnum at around 13200 with a tach

But I didn't always have one

 

[Knobby57]

A tach is a great way to duplicate a setting after rebuilding or cleaning your carb ,Or get you close . but if you mod your saw (this is a dog of another color) run a different fuel , different oil, different mix ratio, bar length,air filter condition,fuel filter condition,or even elivation will all call for a different setting for the mixture . Not all saws are the same, I have 2 ms 361 s that both have the same muffler mod but one runs 150 rpm higher with the same 18" bar....Setting by ear is the best, have a friend that knows how ,set it and get your tach reading for a good base number. The more you play with it the better you will get at adjusting the mix. I don't go anywhere with a saw with out a screw driver in my pocket.. Even ambient tempature will mess with the mix, a saw will requir ajustments when any of the above change to be 100% . I always stay closer to too rich than lean . And I do inspect my sark plug after every 20 tanks of fuel or so, I hope this makes some sense . But your saw should not sound like a screaming indi car when revved up out of the wood it will seem to break up and then smooth out when under a load .