Got another recoil starter?
660 starting issue- super hard pull.
- Thread starter MervMaster
- Start date
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VinceGU05
PSA vitim.
Take ur wedding band off. I bet yr finger hurts. Then get real about pulling that thing over.
Saws that have the timing advanced are good at ripping out if yr hand but a stock one should be a piece of piss. [emoji106]
Saws that have the timing advanced are good at ripping out if yr hand but a stock one should be a piece of piss. [emoji106]
Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
Key statement...should be. Putting aside the machismo BS, there is clearly something mechanically wrong with the saw.
Moparmyway
Its just a saw
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Moparmyway
Its just a saw
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The whole puzzle looks like this IIRC .................
This only happens sometimes, plug in or plug out, the saw has resistance to turning over.
The recoil was already removed and the problem still existed.
The piston and rings look good
The flywheel has no lateral movement, it does not rock left to right
The flywheel and the key are in perfect shape
Sometimes there is no problem, sometimes its a real mother to pull over.
This only happens sometimes, plug in or plug out, the saw has resistance to turning over.
The recoil was already removed and the problem still existed.
The piston and rings look good
The flywheel has no lateral movement, it does not rock left to right
The flywheel and the key are in perfect shape
Sometimes there is no problem, sometimes its a real mother to pull over.
dp0350
ArboristSite Lurker
Guys, I was in the woods with Merv and the 660 today. He made the video to show the point at which the starter rope stops. There is no pulling through this, it would rip the elastic right out of the handle. It feels compression related, like the timing is off and pre-detonating, almost to the point of wanting to run backwards. He has had 90cc saws for years trust me an 800lb gorilla couldn't start this saw when it acts up. But if the timing is off, why does it then start and run fine eventually? It's not logical that it realigns the flywheel with the crank key way and then runs fine.
Moparmyway
Its just a saw
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And through all of this, it is hard to turn over by hand, even without the recoil or plug being installed, then it magically goes away ???? correct ??
MervMaster
ArboristSite Operative
Yes.
Moparmyway
Its just a saw
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Then my honest opinion, no matter how much its not liked is that the internal bearings are ready to take a walk ............. Crank or connecting rod
dp0350
ArboristSite Lurker
As I remember it, last week when it did this we took out the plug and it was still hard cranking, almost like it still had compression which obviously isn't possible. It made my think he had a seized crank bearing but then we put it all back together and it ran perfect again. We choked it up to some strange vapor lock issue and moved on. But it acted up again today, same issue.
VinceGU05
PSA vitim.
clutch enaging.. and chain brake is on.. some sorta combo there?
The saw sure have problem , but is from theese ****ing problems that sometimes coming up and sometimes dont . for sure dont need a gorila or the superman for starting the 660 with the decomp open.
dp0350
ArboristSite Lurker
That's really what it feels like. When you get a bearing with little rust spots on some of the balls/rollers and it turns for a while then locks solid, then starts spinning again.
cutforfun
Addicted to ArboristSite
Have you pulled the flywheel, make sure the key is not shered. Your pics don't mean anything if the key way is staying with the flywheel. Also check for a small bolt or something bouncing around the flywheel and getting stuck to the magnets.
hseII
Addicted to ArboristSite
OP, I know you've had the recoil off, but the small bolt or something bouncing around sure does fit...
tacomatrd98
ArboristSite Guru
Stop now and pull the jug.
I had an Ms460 doing this EXACT same thing for at least a year. I would go to start it and it would yank the rope out of my hand like a piston stop was snuck in there when I wasnt looking. If you would tap on the recoil, (more like drop it in disgust) or spin it backwards just a hair, it would then pull over and start and run just fine. I ASSUMED recoil problem right. so i did not worry about it. Come to find out, it lost a circlip and the wrist pin was floating out into the transfer port and locking the motor. The slightest tap would reset it and good to go again. After the saw finally loosened up the pin flew out on a high idle start one time and by by transfer window. After lots of hammering, banging and generally awful freaking sounds, setting in a box for 2 years and a full rebuild later she is back in action.
It takes 15 minutes to have the jug off, well worth it for peace of mind.
EDIT: The sad part about this, the saw did it from about 6 months old while it was still under warranty and I never got around to taking it back for it. It only did it now and then and I would forget about it til the next episode.
I had an Ms460 doing this EXACT same thing for at least a year. I would go to start it and it would yank the rope out of my hand like a piston stop was snuck in there when I wasnt looking. If you would tap on the recoil, (more like drop it in disgust) or spin it backwards just a hair, it would then pull over and start and run just fine. I ASSUMED recoil problem right. so i did not worry about it. Come to find out, it lost a circlip and the wrist pin was floating out into the transfer port and locking the motor. The slightest tap would reset it and good to go again. After the saw finally loosened up the pin flew out on a high idle start one time and by by transfer window. After lots of hammering, banging and generally awful freaking sounds, setting in a box for 2 years and a full rebuild later she is back in action.
It takes 15 minutes to have the jug off, well worth it for peace of mind.
EDIT: The sad part about this, the saw did it from about 6 months old while it was still under warranty and I never got around to taking it back for it. It only did it now and then and I would forget about it til the next episode.
tacomatrd98
ArboristSite Guru
And if that is not your problem, I'd say crank or rod bearings acting like an overrunning clutch at times do to loose cages as mdavlee suggested
rich450es
you can't fix stupid
1) pull off the bar and chain and try starting (if clutch drum spins theres a problem if not go to #2
2) pull off the pull starter and try spinning the flywheel with youre fingers (and plug out) if it spins freely its the pull starter if it is still hard then get out youre torx #27 and pull the top end off and see what is seizing up (my god 3 pages to figure this simple chainsaws problem out )
2) pull off the pull starter and try spinning the flywheel with youre fingers (and plug out) if it spins freely its the pull starter if it is still hard then get out youre torx #27 and pull the top end off and see what is seizing up (my god 3 pages to figure this simple chainsaws problem out )
