660 vs.394xp

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keith c raymond

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If I was to buy the next to all out saw,for power,which would it be?Im looking for a large saw to add to the flock.The occaisional large trunk drop,bucking and stumping.It wouldnt see a lot of use,and I would want to mod it,exhaust to start then who knows,maybe a woods mod.Unless I could find an 880 or 3120 used in good shape it would be a 660 or 394xp new.What do you all think?I lean toward Husky,cost and air filtration wise,but wont rule Stihl out ,especially after seeing the "King" . :greenchainsaw:
 
If I was to buy the next to all out saw,for power,which would it be?Im looking for a large saw to add to the flock.The occaisional large trunk drop,bucking and stumping.It wouldnt see a lot of use,and I would want to mod it,exhaust to start then who knows,maybe a woods mod.Unless I could find an 880 or 3120 used in good shape it would be a 660 or 394xp new.What do you all think?I lean toward Husky,cost and air filtration wise,but wont rule Stihl out ,especially after seeing the "King" . :greenchainsaw:


If money is no object then you might want to talk to Dean at Washington Hot Saws... I bought a new Husky 390XPW from him with a stage III+ mod. and It will out run any of the above without even breathing hard....;)
 
The 394xp is long gone - now it is 395xp.......;)

The Husky is a good bit heavier than the Stihl in this class, but I guess it doesn't matter much........

..with long bars it could even be an asset, regarding balance.
 
If money is no object then you might want to talk to Dean at Washington Hot Saws... I bought a new Husky 390XPW from him with a stage III+ mod. and It will out run any of the above without even breathing hard....;)


I believe you! :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
 
Just 2 cents worth, I see you have a Dolmar 7900 in your stable already. If you have a woods port job done on that puppy by the right chainsaw builder. It will out cut a stock 660/066 or 395/394 running 32" b+c and save you a ton of money.
But now if you get a 066/660 and woods port mod it, the modded 7900 cant keep up and this is from first hand experience running both modded in big wood.
 
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I've used the Sithl 066/660 for years,and they never let me down.I guess in the last twenty years I've gone through at least 8 of them,I just retired one last week....When that 660 went down,I decided it was time for change,not because I didn't like the 660,but mainly because my dealer wasn't sure when he could get me another 660,and he had two 395's in stock.I bought the 395's under his promise that if I didn't like em',I could swap them out for 660's no questions asked.I am very happy with the 395's and I may start a racket here,I feel like if anyone knows the 066/660 its me and it's not a slouch by no means,but the 395 will out cut it,and these 395's aren't even broken in yet.
 
I was cutting some big fir lately with both my 066 and my 395. I like them both, but bottom line I was thinking as I cut that if the 066 died or got stolen I would not replace it. I would replace the 395 in a heartbeat as it is just so sweet to run if you can stand the weight.

But on AS you get more manly points with a 660.:laugh:
 
Sorry troll,I meant 395xp,had lots of numbers runnin through my head.I had consitered a port job on my 7900 but there is no subsitute for cubic inches.:chainsaw:
 
Either the 660 or the 395 will work fine for your what your intended use. I personally had to go through this debate awhile back. Ended up with the 660. The filtration system on the Husky is definitely better but if your not going to be using it as your primary saw, not a big issue. The outboard clutch on the Husky is one thing I don't like about it. The 660 has an inboard clutch. Max RPM"s on the 395/12,500; 660/13,000. I modded the muffler and it really came alive, as did my 372 also with the muffler modd. Inexpensive, good way to add minimal power gains. Good luck.
 
That's the 395's biggest downfall.Mine do not have side chain adjusters either,but I can live with that.It probably be long before husky upgrades this dinosaur.

I thought the side tensioner was one of the changes when it became the 395 vs 394.......:pumpkin2:

....but of course some markets/distributers might not want it?????? :rolleyes: :confused:

Edit;, I took a look at a user manuel, and is sort of show them in both places.........


.....but the IPLs tell me that they are up front.......:pumpkin2:
 
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I thought the side tensioner was one of the changes when it became the 395 vs 394.......:pumpkin2:

....but of course some markets/distributers might not want it?????? :rolleyes: :confused:

Nope, same tensioner on 395. I find it is a lot easier by using a long "normal" screwdriver instead of a scrench (because of the hammer head shape). Kind of a pain because it means I have to carry an extra screwdriver, but since I usually can drive within walking distance of where I will cut, I always pack a toolbox anyway.

I don't hate the old tensioner, but I like many people like the Stihl tensioner the best.
 
Nope, same tensioner on 395. I find it is a lot easier by using a long "normal" screwdriver instead of a scrench (because of the hammer head shape). Kind of a pain because it means I have to carry an extra screwdriver, but since I usually can drive within walking distance of where I will cut, I always pack a toolbox anyway.

I don't hate the old tensioner, but I like many people like the Stihl tensioner the best.

The old type tensionar aint bad, just troublesome to use with scrench as you said but that long screwdriver nicely eliminates that problem...


But i fancy my side tensioner on 353
:hmm3grin2orange:
 
.... But i fancy my side tensioner on 353
:hmm3grin2orange:

I like the Stihl side tensioner on my 361 quite a lot better than those on my Huskys, for a bit different reasons.........;)

...and a front one surely aren't a PITA of any sort - no biggie at all.
 
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The old type tensionar aint bad, just troublesome to use with scrench as you said but that long screwdriver nicely eliminates that problem...


But i fancy my side tensioner on 353
:hmm3grin2orange:


I can't remember what the tensioner is on the 353 (don't own one), but to rephrase my comment more generally, my favorite tensioners are the built in side adjusters (as opposed to the tensioning pins built into the cover).

I guess that since the 353 is so recent it probably has that good style, as does my 5100 (which also works well as compared to my 7900 tensioner which is substandard in my view). And the Stihl implementations of the side tensioners are very solid and easy to use for sure.
 
.... (which also works well as compared to my 7900 tensioner which is substandard in my view). And the Stihl implementations of the side tensioners are very solid and easy to use for sure.

Several people here have reported that trough the years......
 
We took out two big water oaks today,each was around 36 inches in diameter.We were not able to salvage ant of the big wood because it had to be cut small enough to get through the fence opening.This was the first real test for my 395's.Usless Husky changes that saw and screws it up,I doubt I'll buy another 660.It really shows it's stuff when you put it into big wood like that.There difference in torque is huge.One of my guys refered to the saw as "the beast".
 
I appreciate all the input,believe me.This is like,I got all the saws anybody normal needs,but everybody knows where that could lead.I am swayed big time for the 395,as my local dealer is willing to work with me.I could be making a decision shortly...:blob2:
 
i ran my 395 against my buddies 066.

the husky ate it up with a 36" bar verses the 066 with a 28".i'm sure it's a nice saw but i haven't figured out all the hype.must be stihl's incredible marketing is working.
 
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the husky ate it up with a 36" bar verses the 066 with a 28".i'm sure it's a nice saw but i haven't figured out all the hype.must be stihl's incredible marketing is working.

Today I had a 32 inch bar on my 395,and it was easily out cutting my MS650 that had a 24 inch bar.I know the 650 is a smaller saw,but mine is ported and is no slouch.
 

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