70e plastic flywheel, 3-D printable?
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OpenSCAD is free http://www.openscad.org/
love it,,carry on...
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Yes, I know there are packages available, and I like and use open source software. My point was that it's a step people who are learning about 3D printers often miss, and it takes some considerable time and effort to find and learn a suitable software package.
I installed OpenSCAD, but this appears to be a text-based command line interface. This is typical of Linux packages but not how I would want to do CAD work. There is no tool bar for drawing shapes and extruding, or any of the typical things one would do, rather there is a box you type in commands.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
What 3D CAD package do you use Oly?
forgive me,,i bough to your highness.........................
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Well you seemed to really like the OpenSCAD package so I thought maybe you had something useful to contribute.
Yeah, right....
like I said,, i should bow to his highness,,the great one.. tell me,, why you opened your fat face about me replying to sasquatch???? feel a prick in your heart?? or just more of your false pride speaking out??? I was N O TTTT talking to you..i wonder,,if matt knows about cad printing,, since he works on printing presses and such all day long????
which Matt are you referring to? .... I'm a dentist... by trade
guido knows who I'm speaking of..hedgerow.....
LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm wondering how practical this would be for making various air dams
for "turbo clean" air intake systems.
Getting the dimensions and figuring the necessary bridging/suports for during the printing would likely be the trickiest part, I expect.
IF you were proficient at that, then it seems that there's a good chance
You could also add the sling-o-clean to a few other saws that didn't originally have it.
for "turbo clean" air intake systems.
Getting the dimensions and figuring the necessary bridging/suports for during the printing would likely be the trickiest part, I expect.
IF you were proficient at that, then it seems that there's a good chance
You could also add the sling-o-clean to a few other saws that didn't originally have it.
Michigan Escapee
ArboristSite Operative
Well that's good, because it looks like these guys are about to punch each other out, so you might need to dig out your rustiest drills and taps, and to print out some replacement teeth, partials, dentures, etc.
Unless you're doing all that old school wax and sandcasting stuff.
And that's kind of the thing, 3D printing, scanning, CAD/CAM is amazing in that once it's done, you don't need a physical mold stashed somewhere. You can ship that data around the world, store it for however long(in practice, about 15 years before the software is too obsolete to work with anything), and make various mods, like texturing, precise hole spacing, scads of other neat thing, without needing to be a master machinist, or needing to roust one, and explain 20 times what you're trying to show in your printouts before the item is done correctly.
More importantly, nobody has to explain why there are hundreds of billable hours for machinists work, and no functional prototype yet.
No, you just have some engineer doing the walk of shame from the 3D resin tank, on down to the wash station on the lower floor mumbling to themselves "this time for sure!"But, more often than not, fully scanning, rendering, and printing a part is total overkill. Like with the 3D printing of guns, the joke is that it allows a larval engineer to do with a $4000 machine, and high tech software, what is used to take some kid with 2 years of high school metal shop, a trip to a plumbing/welding shop, plus some assorted tools in the garage to do.... For about $80, and a half dozen hours of tinkering.
And that's the thing, if you know basic sandcasting, basic drafting, and some metal shop skills, you can piece together something enough to make a mold. You might need to make a wax or thermoplastic copy, modify that to get it into tolerances, and then make a mold off that for the metal part, or the high grade plastic part, or various ceramics, and what have you.
Now if you want to be able to transmit the specs for that part, to proportionately scale it up bigger or smaller, or do something that might be hellishly complicated, or impractical with molding, or just the machinery you have at hand, then it makes sense to scan it, and tweak it in the software. Of course, for a lot of knuckle dragging, chainsaw wielding, outdoorsy types, "Math is Hard!", and making a 3D model with software that assumes you cut your teeth with AutoCAD or solidworks, that's a stroke waiting to happen.
But! All is not lost! With the interwebs we got us a basic tard math level intro to drafting! http://wikieducator.org/images/9/9c/FT101.pdf
Which kinda gives you a hint as to what angles you'll need to photograph your gizmo from.
Then you get your centimeter graph paper, to print, buy, whatever. http://www.woojr.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/1-cm-grid-paper.gif
Put your gizmo on that, and take some high rez photos. Next step, pop the gizmo on the photo copier, hit the button, and try to do that from all 6 axis. Macro zoom in photos of any important details, and have an item for scale.. So you got photos against your cm lined paper for correct scale, and photo copies, scanned into PDF, JPEGs, whatever.
Then you hire some other poor mofo to turn your stuff into 3D computer form, and make sure it's something rendered such that it will work with the machinery you plan to generate the copy with. Which will hopefully hold you long enough to learn the basics. Mainly because, you run out of bored high school level draftsmen looking for practice pretty quick, and pro level people want lots of money. Unless you can find one in Pakistan. If you do the later, make sure you know the exchange rate, or simply discuss things in terms of US dollars. 6000 Rupees an hour ain't nothing to sneeze at, especially if it takes 20 hours.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Intro-to-3D-Modeling/?ALLSTEPS
https://www.freelancer.com/hire/threed-printing/
https://www.quora.com/3D-Printing-How-much-does-it-cost-to-hire-CAD-designers
https://www.cadcrowd.com
LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
hmm, the original hard drive of this PC has a version of AutoCAD on it.
Last updates were probably 4~5 years ago, when I bought it.
(too bad I didn't think to update every prog on it, before unplugging it after the auction)
( PC was still hooked up & running with web access )
Wonder if it's compatible with the 3D printers or IF I can learn how to get the files into the correct format for a printer
You guys have me thinking of seeing -IF- I can still retain a thought
long enough to get myself familiarized with it.
Then I'd go see the folks at the nearest "Hackerspace"
and see if they could print it for me.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hackerspace
Last updates were probably 4~5 years ago, when I bought it.
(too bad I didn't think to update every prog on it, before unplugging it after the auction)
( PC was still hooked up & running with web access )
Wonder if it's compatible with the 3D printers or IF I can learn how to get the files into the correct format for a printer
You guys have me thinking of seeing -IF- I can still retain a thought
long enough to get myself familiarized with it.
Then I'd go see the folks at the nearest "Hackerspace"
and see if they could print it for me.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hackerspace
Well that's good, because it looks like these guys are about to punch each other out, so you might need to dig out your rustiest drills and taps, and to print out some replacement teeth, partials, dentures, etc.
Unless you're doing all that old school wax and sandcasting stuff.
And that's kind of the thing, 3D printing, scanning, CAD/CAM is amazing in that once it's done, you don't need a physical mold stashed somewhere. You can ship that data around the world, store it for however long(in practice, about 15 years before the software is too obsolete to work with anything), and make various mods, like texturing, precise hole spacing, scads of other neat thing, without needing to be a master machinist, or needing to roust one, and explain 20 times what you're trying to show in your printouts before the item is done correctly.
More importantly, nobody has to explain why there are hundreds of billable hours for machinists work, and no functional prototype yet.
But, more often than not, fully scanning, rendering, and printing a part is total overkill. Like with the 3D printing of guns, the joke is that it allows a larval engineer to do with a $4000 machine, and high tech software, what is used to take some kid with 2 years of high school metal shop, a trip to a plumbing/welding shop, plus some assorted tools in the garage to do.... For about $80, and a half dozen hours of tinkering.
And that's the thing, if you know basic sandcasting, basic drafting, and some metal shop skills, you can piece together something enough to make a mold. You might need to make a wax or thermoplastic copy, modify that to get it into tolerances, and then make a mold off that for the metal part, or the high grade plastic part, or various ceramics, and what have you.
Now if you want to be able to transmit the specs for that part, to proportionately scale it up bigger or smaller, or do something that might be hellishly complicated, or impractical with molding, or just the machinery you have at hand, then it makes sense to scan it, and tweak it in the software. Of course, for a lot of knuckle dragging, chainsaw wielding, outdoorsy types, "Math is Hard!", and making a 3D model with software that assumes you cut your teeth with AutoCAD or solidworks, that's a stroke waiting to happen.
But! All is not lost! With the interwebs we got us a basic tard math level intro to drafting! http://wikieducator.org/images/9/9c/FT101.pdf
Which kinda gives you a hint as to what angles you'll need to photograph your gizmo from.
Then you get your centimeter graph paper, to print, buy, whatever. http://www.woojr.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/1-cm-grid-paper.gif
Put your gizmo on that, and take some high rez photos. Next step, pop the gizmo on the photo copier, hit the button, and try to do that from all 6 axis. Macro zoom in photos of any important details, and have an item for scale.. So you got photos against your cm lined paper for correct scale, and photo copies, scanned into PDF, JPEGs, whatever.
Then you hire some other poor mofo to turn your stuff into 3D computer form, and make sure it's something rendered such that it will work with the machinery you plan to generate the copy with. Which will hopefully hold you long enough to learn the basics. Mainly because, you run out of bored high school level draftsmen looking for practice pretty quick, and pro level people want lots of money. Unless you can find one in Pakistan. If you do the later, make sure you know the exchange rate, or simply discuss things in terms of US dollars. 6000 Rupees an hour ain't nothing to sneeze at, especially if it takes 20 hours.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Intro-to-3D-Modeling/?ALLSTEPS
https://www.freelancer.com/hire/threed-printing/
https://www.quora.com/3D-Printing-How-much-does-it-cost-to-hire-CAD-designers
https://www.cadcrowd.com
reason is,, because its the usual,, that some people are wayyyy smarter than others,, and like to extol their great virtues.....and love to hog knowledge.. like the nazis did..
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
I think you may be able to create .STL outputs from AutoCAD, but I'm not sure because I successfully avoided ever having to use that horror of a program. Mostly 3D rendering is done with software like Solidworks or Inventor, but these are very expensive pro packages. So far as we've seen at work the free stuff you can get is rather inadequate, although I wish that were not the case.
Michigan Escapee
ArboristSite Operative
Michigan Escapee
ArboristSite Operative
Take a peek at this one. https://remake.autodesk.com/about
You take some photos of what you want to make a 3D copy of, touch it up, and generate the files to 3D print it. Free trial versions, than after that, monthly subscription price is $30 a month. Sort of a multiplatform thing, you can use it on your PC, droid devices, etc, etc. The old tractor guys would probably love that. If you're missing a part where there's no working one to be had, scan in one at an old tractor show using your cell phone, 3D print one in plastic, make a mold from that part, cast it, forge it, stamp it, well, you get the idea.
autodesk remake looks like a gamechanger. with the ability to "scan" by using just photos... thats amazing. fantastic.
I haven't gotten into 3d printing myself ...one day
I haven't gotten into 3d printing myself ...one day
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Thanks for the link - I took a look at the site and will get into it further when I have a chance. My initial reaction is a bit skeptical, but this depends on what you're trying to accomplish.
- "Mesh diagnostic, clan up and fixing" sounds like a very different process than that of 3D modeling - more like trying to edit the surfaces you can generate as an output, which is often frustrating and limited.
- When designing any part one must account for the material and manufacturing process. 3D printing is no exception, and the printing process has many limitations. Part orientation on the print bed, support structures, surface finish, sagging & deformation, etc. all must be dealt with. However, if you are intending to use the printed object to make mold masters rather than as a part itself some of these issues could be dealt with differently.
- $30 a month is pricey, and AutoDesk has gone completely to the monthly subscription model. This is why we canned Inventor at work (in addition to some unacceptable business practices) and switched to Solidworks.
