A question for the pro's

[338RUM]

Hi guys, I am new to cutting firewood for my home. I bought a new Stihl MS260 with an 18" bar. I have been felling and bucking sugar maple and elm trees that are around 16". Is this type of wood and size really too much for my little saw to handle and last? I have cut around 6 cord already and I am wondering if I need to upgrade to something like a Stihl 440. I would love to hear your two cents.

Thanks
Duane

 

[rebelman]

most any saw will do if the chain is sharp. keep it sharp by bending your knees and keeping the right hand against the ground(thereby keeping the blade tip out of dirt). bending your knees will also ease back strain. Also be aware of firewood standards--wood for indoor furnaces must be seasoned, preferably one year Trim all suckers away, these are potential fire hazards,

 

[Lakeside53]

As Dr. Phil would say "how's that working out for you?".

Hey, if you're happy with the performance, keep working with it. You won't burn out the saw by working it hard so log as it isn't bogging down and burning up the clutch or you're not letting it cool down before shut off. It is a "pro" saw.

If you're not, then upgrade...

For cutting wood this size, you'd be real happy with a MS361... Of course an MS440 or MS460 would cut slightly faster, but...

 

[Rotax Robert]

Go with bigger saw. The 260 is enough in my view but why not have more than enough rather than just barely enough saw. get a moded ms460

Rotax Robert

 

[Sizzle-Chest]

you have a saw and it works for what your doing. save your money

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

That saw is fine for what you're doinging. Like Lakeside said, the 361 would be ideal for what you're doing, but you did right in getting a good saw to start with. The 260 will last you forever if you take care of it. There is no problem with getting a 440, and bigger saws are cool, but for firewood duties, it really isn't necessary.

Now if you start working timber, or get into production firewood, that's a different story...

Welcome to AS.

Jeff

 

[SawTroll]

I am not a pro, but anyway here is my opinion;

As several others said, the 260 will do the job, but imo it is a bit small for regularly using an 18" bar in 16" wood.

A bigger saw will make the job quicker, and it will be more fun to run that bar on a bigger saw. :blob5:

If you keep the 260, I would skip the 60 cc saws like the 361, and get something like the 372xp or 7900.
Otherwise the 361 would probably be a good compromice.

I would not buy a new 440 or 460 before I knew what sort of animal the 441 is!

 

[stihltech]

260

There is no reason this saw will not be ok in 16 inch wood. KEEP IT SHARP!!!

 

[338RUM]

Thanks for all the great input. I think I will stay with the 260 for now, maybe buy a bigger saw later on... I have one more question, at which temp do you start using winter grade bar oil?

Thanks
Duane

 

[Lawn Masters]

you have a saw and it works for what your doing. save your money

Ditto.
just mod the muffler, adjust the carb after you mod the muffler, and you'll be good to go. No sense in a bigger saw if the one you've got is doing just fine.

If you still crave more power, just send it to one of the saw builders, and let them do a little work on it.

 

[pbtree]

Thanks for all the great input. I think I will stay with the 260 for now, maybe buy a bigger saw later on... I have one more question, at which temp do you start using winter grade bar oil?

Thanks
Duane

Welcome to the site, and I concur that you can keep the saw you have and get a bigger one later - it sounds like it is working for you...

Not sure about the bar oil questions, as that is a moot point in Southern California...

 

[Lakeside53]

Thanks for all the great input. I think I will stay with the 260 for now, maybe buy a bigger saw later on... I have one more question, at which temp do you start using winter grade bar oil?

Thanks
Duane

I find "winter oil" (there are many forms of this) isn't worth using at temperatures above about 15-20F.... If you're using a stihl pro saw (you are) then the oil is quickly warmed by the crankcase anyhow so even "summer" weight works pretty well at low temperatures. At 25-32F (nasty sawing weather in Western WA) I find winter weight just runs though way too quick and you're out of oil long time before gas. Some AS comments suggest using transmission fluid, other use Canola oil (great at low temperatures) etc etc. There have been a few good AS threads on this already - try searching for them. Check with others in your area - they will give you better insight as to the need for a winter weight or not.

 

[338RUM]

Thanks for all your great help guys. The question about the bar oil came up because I will be bucking up more firewood this weekend, and the temps are around 20F right now.... I have been using Stihls med bar oil to date. Maybe that will be good enough for these temps.

Duane

 

[Rotax Robert]

Don't listen to all these guys, just get a bigger saw. All these guys are essentialy telling you is that thier little homelite with a 10" bar is good enough, well so is an axe so why not sell your saw and go that way and save even more money.

Rotax Robert

 

[timberwolf]

Sorry, don't fall into the pro ranks, but do cut with an 026.

Even modified with a sharp chain cutting over 10" hardwood a 50cc saw becomes slow. If it is 10"+ I put down the 260 and pick up the 066, cutting with 2 saws gives you this option.

I would think you would want to go to at least an 044, the 361 has HP on the 260 but it is still only 60 cc vs 50.

 

[046]

mine and most 260's wear a 16in bar

 

[16gauge]

260 is just fine for your work

Lots of the folks here on AS believe there is no replacement for displacement. If they are cutting professionally (not me but I have used a couple of pro hand-me-downs) or are consistently cutting really large stuff (my personal cutoff is over 20 inch diameter wood) then by all means get a 460 or 372.

But if you are cutting 16 inch average firewood as you say then the 260 should serve well for many seasons. If you occasionally need something bigger this can be covered with an inexpensive USED backup saw (you really will need one sooner or later). I picked up a strong running Jonsered 625 last year for just this purpose. It will handle a 24" bar if the chain is sharp.

So...you asked for input from the PROs and that's not me...but I am getting older and perhaps a little wiser. I really appreciate the ease of use and capability of the lighter saws like the 260. It should serve for 99% of the work you say you are doing. For that extra 1% you will need a backup...sooner or later. :angel:

 

[16gauge]

338 Rum...

How do you like that 338? Sounds to me like you need a PAST on your shoulder before letting 'er go.

 

[338RUM]

16gauge, I love my 338 Ultra.... I took and bull moose and a cow this year with it. One shot for each. Broke both shoulders, they went less than 10 yrds. 90grs of H4831sc with a 225gr Hornady Interbond.

Duane

 

[16gauge]

Duane, Welcome to this site and keep those pesky moose under control up yonder!