aberrant growth

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CA arborista

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Hey!

I posted a question a few weeks ago and must have put it in the wrong place - so, I'm going to try again. I'd really like some feed back.

We have encountered five maple trees in our area that have been topped by other services. All five trees have that distinctive long leggy growth typical of water sprouts. Consequently, the owners have asked us to reduce the growth. Other than waiting until these trees are dormant, what techniques are available to restore the natural appearance of these trees (even though they will never have the natural branch structure again).

Thanx
 
single leader maybe; it depends.

reduce 1/3 remove 1/3 at a time is one rule

no need to wait until "dormancy"; WHERE DOES THAT IDEA COME FROM?
 
It was my understanding that 3/4 of the crown needed to remain to sustain the tree's ability to produce food. Actually we have pressed it to 2/3 in certain cases. If the tree is dormant the pruning has less impact if it exceeds these limits. Just finding a strong lateral that is well placed on these trees is a challenge. You're kinda stuck using what there is.
 
If the tree is dormant the pruning has less impact if it exceeds these limits.
Where does that idea come from?

You're right, 25% at a time is a guideline, not a rule.

Pictures would help on this. Gilman's pruning guide page 228 has some good guidance on this, showing the reduce 1/3 remove 1/3 leave 1/3 approach, which is a good place to start.

Also see here: http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/Topped.html

Related info here: http://treesandhurricanes.ifas.ufl.edu
 
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Thanx everyone!

treeseer - the illustrations that were on the website you shared were wonderul. Thank you! They actually showed more like 2/3 removed! What kind of impact does that have on a tree in leaf? The idea of finding a leader by eliminating the excess is very helpful. All of these maples have extensive bark necrosis and have seperation of the tissue layers.

Even after establishing a leader, is this then a pseudo-scaffolding in that the branches don't have the normal physiological structure. Should the property owner still be informed of the tendency for these branches to detach? We see alot of topped and tipped trees up here in the Northstate.

I'm so glad that you're having a better week and DON'T NEED CAPITALS!
 
DON'T NEED CAPITALS!
Sorry but that "Wait until dormancy to prune" is a myth that dies hard, too hard.

Trees don't need their leaves so much in late summer; they've made their food for the year already.

Yeah the diagram does show a lot coming off; Gilman's got a pretty heavy hand. ok on some species but I tend to be more gradual.
 
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treeseer -

Thank God at least I was believing something I had heard (the myth) and not something I had made up on my own!

There are some trees that are hard to affect - Live oak, sycamore, mulberry. We've seen all of these withstand brutality and still plug along. Now, nut and maples are more delicate. I think that there is a lack of understanding in fly-by-night tree services that there are a differences. Some trees can't be man-handled.

Thanx for your help.
 
Just finding a strong lateral that is well placed on these trees is a challenge.

Yup. That's a topped maple for you...

Usually I'll find between 3 and 10 sprouts growing from one cut. I'll reduce the number of these (selecting the strongest few) and then start reducing height to laterals. You may have to reduce slowly over a few year period so the tree has time to form better laterals.

If I'm removing entire sprouts, I'll go easy on the height reduction (handsaw and polesaw work). I'll keep a general eye on total crown loss and proceed from there.

It's encouraging to hear that your clients didn't simply want it slashed again...
 
We do NOT trim Maples in the spring summer months in this area. Many services do not realize the future damage that will be caused by direct sun exposure. We typically have very hot springs and summers and my expierience has been that the maples will sunburn easily and when being topped or a heavy leader removed they will rot faster than they are able to heal. We generally wait to trim in winter months though it is hard to ever reverse the damage caused by pollarding these trees.
 
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