? about Dura Disk changing teeth

[Oly's Stump]

I have a Carlton 8018 TRX machine with the Sandvic Dura Disk. I am very happy with the machine and the disk. I also have a Rayco RG50 machine with the super teeth. I have experienced problems when changing teeth on the disk. I use an air powered impact to remove my teeth in the field. The disk tooth threads are stripping when I go to remove the teeth. Sometimes I have to cut the teeth off because the threads are stripped so bad. I called Carlton about this and their response is that the threads on the tooth are exposed to dirt and you have to wash off all the dirt before removing. Are any of you guys with the disk having the same problem? I never had that problem with Rayco teeth because those threads are not exposed (inside of pocket). This is the only problem I am having with the disk! Please respond!

 

[Curbside]

I have not had any problems with bolts stripping, not a single one. I use a 1 1/4 inch hole saw to clean the mud from around the nut and then use a battery impact gun to take them off and re-tighten. I have not had to use it but you could take a wire brush and give them a quick dust off. There is very little of the bolt actully exposed so it only has to make a few turns in the dirt. Maybe the nuts are getting over tightened. That Impact might be a little too powerful

 

[PES+]

I have seen similar problems

Use medium strength loctite (green) and coat the threads of the bolt AND the threads in the nut and you should not have anymore problems.
Also rock the nuts forward and back ward when removing to break the rust/dirt bond.

 

[Dadatwins]

Use medium strength loctite (green) and coat the threads of the bolt AND the threads in the nut and you should not have anymore problems.
Also rock the nuts forward and back ward when removing to break the rust/dirt bond.

I have used a product called never-sieze on my stump cutter bolts for many years. I currently use the Rayco system and have not had any problems with frozen cap screws. Product does not allow rust to form between the threads and pocket. Prior to using never-seize I would be at the welders frequently with frozen bolts. I have never heard of using any grade loctite on grinder teeth??? I was thinking of getting the duradisk but this gives me something to think about. Does the duradisk manufacturer recommend loctite on their bolt system?

 

[juststumps]

I have not had any problems with bolts stripping, not a single one. I use a 1 1/4 inch hole saw to clean the mud from around the nut and then use a battery impact gun to take them off and re-tighten. I have not had to use it but you could take a wire brush and give them a quick dust off. There is very little of the bolt actully exposed so it only has to make a few turns in the dirt. Maybe the nuts are getting over tightened. That Impact might be a little too powerful

i like curb side view.... never having seen this disk,,only pics,,what is the tread,,,and where is the damage at???? if its buggered up close to the disk, curb is dead on,,, over tight......

 

[juststumps]

i like curb side view.... never having seen this disk,,only pics,,what is the tread,,,and where is the damage at???? if its buggered up close to the disk, curb is dead on,,, over tight......

what are the specs on tightening a tooth on that disk???? i know on my 352,, the specs are 250 ft/lb, on a 5/8' grade 8 cap screw.....looks like from the pics,, the dura disk, uses much smaller threads... i'm going with curb,,, over tight with the air gun........

 

[Oly's Stump]

I will take some photos and post. I have the impact set at about 135 ft lbs which is what Rayco recommends. Carlton does not have any thing listed for ft lbs for the disk. I will have to give them a call on that.

 

[kennertree]

I will take some photos and post. I have the impact set at about 135 ft lbs which is what Rayco recommends. Carlton does not have any thing listed for ft lbs for the disk. I will have to give them a call on that.

I called them a while back, they told me between 80-100 ft lbs.

 

[Oly's Stump]

It sounds that you guys hit it right on the nose. I never thought of the ft lbs. I will turn it down and hopefully that will clear up my problem. Thats whats nice about this site! Thanks Much!

 

[Sand Dollar]

Teeth

Oly's Stump,

I change my teeth regularly. I use a power washer to remove all dirt and then the bolts come out quick. I do use an impact wrench until I break them with a craftsman breaker bar and sockett. Prior to installing the new tooth, I use WD 40 on both the tooth and hole. No problems or trouble taking them out. The recommended torque is no more than 270 ft pounds. I do mine at 235 ft pds.
The only problem with the sanvic (Dura) teeth is they dull quick. Also I had two that were welded wrong so the tooth did not face the exact direction it should.

 

[B-Edwards]

OK I'm confused I have heard that you have to change teeth less because they hold their edge longer than other teeth. Now you say the dull fast? I would think about switching to this system if it improved speed and the teeth lasted longer, otherwise i have way to many regular teeth to throw away.How bout it, this wheel all i hear or is it a promotion?

 

[Curbside]

I'm comparing mine to Vermeer Pro teeth. They (being the Sandvic teeth) last way longer. They are more durable and hold their edge longer plus when your edge does dull you can switch them over to the other side and use the other edge of the carbide. On my Vermeer Sc60TX it now has over a 100 hours on the teeth. The only teeth that have been changed are the two leading rows and that was from breakage from hitting mostly steel. Half of the teeth have never been changed and are nearly as sharp as when they started since they only cut wood and don't hit the rocks and steel like the leading edges do.

 

[Sand Dollar]

Dura Teeth

I cut into a lot of stone and sand here in Fla so the teeth do dull quicker. However, they do last much longer than other teeth I have used to include green teeth.