Actual weight of a few saws.....for grins

[wyk]

I've never managed to use a saw without fluids in it, weight fully laden seems more useful

It's useful to know the weight of the saw you are using at that time. To others, it is nearly worthless information. Knowing the PHO only allows you to compare the saw to other saws. Fluids and bar weights differ. PHO doesn't.

 

[wyk]

I feel the same way. Fill 'em to the top with fuel and oil, and leave the bars off. Of course, the saws should be as clean as they were on the dealer shelf.

I'm sure there's a bar weight thread around here somewhere, too. Someone should make a chart with powerhead weights and bar weights for easy comparison.

There is a fairly comprehensive bar weight thread on the 'other' board.

 

[old-cat]

Weights of power heads without fluids is useless info!!

 

[TK]

We need to know what bar oil you're using along with the type of 2 stroke mix and mix ratio. That will vastly affect the weights as oils weigh different amounts, and mix ratios will affect the weight of the fuel. Your weights may be completely different than someone else with the same saw setup.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

We need to know what bar oil you're using along with the type of 2 stroke mix and mix ratio. That will vastly affect the weights as oils weigh different amounts, and mix ratios will affect the weight of the fuel. Your weights may be completely different than someone else with the same saw setup.

Oil thread

 

[GrassGuerilla]

I always get a kick out of the "too many variables" to weigh them "ready to work" crowd. Stock saws, with stock bar and chain (size noted). Sure, all the aftermarket changes bring in too many variables. Only way I've ever used a saw was with mix and bar oil. Ready to work makes sense. I'm more interested in what a given saw actually weighs ready (or in the middle of a days use) as opposed to what a clean, empty powerhead does while it sits on the dealers floor. I dunno about you guys, but that's the last time my saws will be perfectly clean and empty. Why the hell would I care to know what it weighs in an unusable state? Baffling.

Further, I've had saws that really seem to load up with oil soaked grunge, and others that don't seem to cake up so heavily. In my mind real world working weights are far more useful than lab clean and dry references.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I prefer empty PHO weights to get my info from.

Why penalize a saw for being able to hold more fuel and bar oil then another saw you have to fill up more often. Then you throw b+c and they all are different amounts too.

 

[old-cat]

Dry weight is for shipping. A saw without gas and oil is a dead saw!! USELESS.

 

[wyk]

It's useful to know the weight of the saw you are using at that time. To others, it is nearly worthless information. Knowing the PHO only allows you to compare the saw to other saws. Fluids and bar weights differ. PHO doesn't.

I always get a kick out of the "too many variables" to weigh them "ready to work" crowd. Stock saws, with stock bar and chain (size noted). Sure, all the aftermarket changes bring in too many variables. Only way I've ever used a saw was with mix and bar oil. Ready to work makes sense. I'm more interested in what a given saw actually weighs ready (or in the middle of a days use) as opposed to what a clean, empty powerhead does while it sits on the dealers floor. I dunno about you guys, but that's the last time my saws will be perfectly clean and empty. Why the hell would I care to know what it weighs in an unusable state? Baffling.

Further, I've had saws that really seem to load up with oil soaked grunge, and others that don't seem to cake up so heavily. In my mind real world working weights are far more useful than lab clean and dry references.

I don't know about you, but I have never in my life picked up a saw that someone else on the internet 6,000 miles away set up for me to use. I choose my own bar and chain. Oftentimes I choose my own bar because I like how it balances on my saw. If I gave you the weight on my chainsaw - that information would be worthless to you, just as yours would be worthless to me. Is this how you set up your 361's?

I somehow doubt it. That is my logging saw for softwoods on Irish mountainsides. I find with that set up, I can easily cut 99% of the timber I run in to, and it doesn't tire me like a 440/372 does with a similar set up.

The simple fact is if you want to weigh a saw 'ready for work' you can only weigh it ready for the work you do. It makes a lot of assumptions. It assumes no one else wants to use a saw differently from you, and that no one else can do math. If you weighed the bar, it would get us closer to knowing what the saw weighed so we could use our own bars for comparison, but you haven't even done that. You could have short filled the fuel and oil as well.

Yes, in the scheme of things for you, it probably doesn't matter. You only care about the weight it is how you use it. That's cool if you want to stay that route. However, for the rest of us, it doesn't matter, either. Because the information you 'shared', was not any information any of us can use unless we set up our saws exactly like you do. We can not compare it to factory weights to see if the marketing is bunk(or at least have an idea where it lies). We can't compare it to other chainsaws, since there is absolutely no baseline. And we can't compare it to our own saws.

 

[GrassGuerilla]

I prefer empty PHO weights to get my info from.

Why penalize a saw for being able to hold more fuel and bar oil then another saw you have to fill up more often. Then you throw b+c and they all are different amounts too.

Never thought of it as a penalty. But given that, why give a saw an advantage that disappears as soon as I gas it up? In my mind BOTH dry and RTW (ready to work) are relevant numbers.

 

[GrassGuerilla]

I always get a kick out of the "too many variables" to weigh them "ready to work" crowd. Stock saws, with stock bar and chain (size noted). Sure, all the aftermarket changes bring in too many variables. Only way I've ever used a saw was with mix and bar oil. Ready to work makes sense. I'm more interested in what a given saw actually weighs ready (or in the middle of a days use) as opposed to what a clean, empty powerhead does while it sits on the dealers floor. I dunno about you guys, but that's the last time my saws will be perfectly clean and empty. Why the hell would I care to know what it weighs in an unusable state? Baffling.

Further, I've had saws that really seem to load up with oil soaked grunge, and others that don't seem to cake up so heavily. In my mind real world working weights are far more useful than lab clean and dry references.

 

[wyk]

Never thought of it as a penalty. But given that, why give a saw an advantage that disappears as soon as I gas it up? In my mind BOTH dry and RTW (ready to work) are relevant numbers.

A lighter saw being able to carry more fuel is an advantage that doesn't disappear when you fill it up. The factory specs on fluid capacities are fairly accurate from what I have seen. Their PHO only weights aren't. If you were to weigh a PHO empty and THEN full of fluids, then with a B&C, THAT is info we could use.

 

[dl5205]

...A lighter saw being able to carry more fuel is an advantage that doesn't disappear when you fill it up...

I like the way you put that.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I don't know about you, but I have never in my life picked up a saw that someone else on the internet 6,000 miles away set up for me to use. I choose my own bar and chain. Oftentimes I choose my own bar because I like how it balances on my saw. If I gave you the weight on my chainsaw - that information would be worthless to you, just as yours would be worthless to me. Is this how you set up your 361's?



I somehow doubt it. That is my logging saw for softwoods on Irish mountainsides. I find with that set up, I can easily cut 99% of the timber I run in to, and it doesn't tire me like a 440/372 does with a similar set up.

The simple fact is if you want to weigh a saw 'ready for work' you can only weigh it ready for the work you do. It makes a lot of assumptions. It assumes no one else wants to use a saw differently from you, and that no one else can do math. If you weighed the bar, it would get us closer to knowing what the saw weighed so we could use our own bars for comparison, but you haven't even done that. You could have short filled the fuel and oil as well.

Yes, in the scheme of things for you, it probably doesn't matter. You only care about the weight it is how you use it. That's cool if you want to stay that route. However, for the rest of us, it doesn't matter, either. Because the information you 'shared', was not any information any of us can use unless we set up our saws exactly like you do. We can not compare it to factory weights to see if the marketing is bunk(or at least have an idea where it lies). We can't compare it to other chainsaws, since there is absolutely no baseline. And we can't compare it to our own saws.