Advancing the Timing

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Another question- what needs to be done to prewent flywheel from returning to its orginal timing? place some copper/brass in the space the was ealier occupied by 1/3 of the key?

Did anyone tried advancing timing on solo 633/637/640?
Or should i just buy some spare keys and try it few times?
Cause widening spark screen holes helps a lot.
 
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Another question- what needs to be done to prewent flywheel from returning to its orginal timing? place some copper/brass in the space the was ealier occupied by 1/3 of the key?

Did anyone tried advancing timing on solo 633/637/640?
Or should i just buy some spare keys and try it few times?
Cause widening spark screen holes helps a lot.

The key only helps with assembly. The taper of the crank and flywheel keep the flywheel mated once the nut is tightened. Many, myself included, run saws without keys. Takes some care in assembly, but I have many saws out there I've done work on that have run for close to a decade without a key, and have never slipped the flywheel. Now try running a saw with a key without torquing the flywheel nut all the way. Saw that once, sheared the key after about 20 seconds of running.
 
Either move the magnets in the flywheel relative to the pickup ie filing the key, or move the pockup relative to the flywheel by slotting the holes
 
I'm wondetring if there are any disadvantages? The top of the cylinder is getting hotter and crankcase is cooler right?
Is there any risk to do it with plastic crankcase saw?
And if saw is running faster it will have shorter life right - its not a problem if it will run awesome like 201t after timing done.
 
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