Advice appreciated --wood stove in a supertight 550 sq.ft.

[Treedropper]

Hi all

New here and have studied many threads.....

I have built the frame of a small cabin at 6k ft in Idaho mtns.---all framing gaps and shear is sealed with const. adhesive--- windows and doors caulked---Full Tyvek----if I vapor seal the ceiling fully it will be about as airtight as is possible.

planned --I have a small used plate steel, fs, woodstove, glass door small manual damper below,takes 14" logs it is set up for 6 inch.

Am I on the right track? wood will be my heater......burning dead standing doug fir.

6 ft of single wall with flue damper to 6 ft. of supervent with kit and cap. 12 ft total--- is this enough ????---
do I need to provide outside air directly to the stove ????----Should I vapor seal inside walls????---is condensation likely????---air quality????---
Any tips or links to articles are greatly appreciated

Also thinking about bending heavy wall copper tubing around the bottom 2 ft of flue to heat water for a closed thermo-siphon hot water heater..........gravity fed ,no air gaps and pressure relief....Thoughts??????????

 

[cantoo]

You will definately be cooked out of that space. I'm thinking short hot fires if you could get some way to heat some thermal mass. And you will need outside air on something that tight. Pictures of the interior would be nice. I would go with the hot water heating to use of some of the heat made by the stove. Another good use of quick hot fires. I might even consider putting a water coil inside the stove if there is room in there. I assume you have no hydro there but if you did I would be tempted to use hydro for aux heating cause you're not going to need much.

 

[mbbushman]

If your walls are insulated, you need a vapor barrier. It's that simple. Sounds like it will be very air-tight which may make it difficult to get a good draft going in your stove. You may need to crack a window to get a fire going properly. Once it's burning well you may be able to close it. Only trial and error will show you what works, and what doesn't.

 

[Patrick62]

I think you on the right track

D. Fir burns good, but sparks a bit. Try and put a screen on the top of the stack. You will have plenty of draft if you don't put any 90's in there. small stove will be fine. You won't get a real long burn time, oh well. Do a look on the stainless coil that goes in the firebox. It looked like the ticket for a retrofit hot water system. it really don't take much. My cookstove has a built in jacket and it is entirely too big for this setup. I can't really keep the stove firing, and there isn't a "off" switch on the water system.

 

[blades]

I ran a early epa stove rated 1100 sq ft in a 950 sq ft place, flue about the same as yours, yes you need that OAK. worked out fine. Couple times in the dead of winter had to open a window or 2 as things got a bit too warm inside, but better than never getting warm enough.

 

[dave_dj1]

Why don't you insulate it? Then you could have small fires and keep comfy instead of having to run the stove wide open.
dave

 

[zogger]

Planned air in would be a good idea. Mobile home rated stoves have the plumbing for that. Plus air for YOU. Real tight requires planned air in and out. Search superinsulated or passivhaus.