Advice/ideas sharpening chains

[Charlie1124]

I file all my chains. I use a Oregon file guide that I've modified to make more consistent and quicker to set up. (I free hand file in the bush). I emploee all the tricks I've learned so far.. good light. Wire brush file... reading glasses.. I tend to sharpen a couple chains a night and have got tired of switching bar n chains on my saw to sharpen a back up chain.

I rummaged around and found a old (2012) ms290 case missing alot of parts. Mounted a bar on it ( .325 16 in) and tossed a chain on it.(3/8 lo pro 18 in)
Now obviously the chain is to big for bar. And wrong pitch. But does that really matter? If the bar is secured.. chain is stationary while filing. Does the chain not fitting the nose sprocket or chain having slack under bar affect filing?

 

[Charlie1124]

Oh. Forgot. If y'all use different methods to sharpen back up chain. Let's hear and see them.
Only ideas I'm against are grinders and dremels. Tried them.dont like. Round files are best for me

 

[jchipps]

You probably wouldn't like my advice, so we'll skip that part.

What I see you're already doing right:
Round files
Hand filing in the bush

Good luck with your new set-up

 

[Charlie1124]

Yes I have heard it all. About how file guides are a crutch. Sharpen faster with a grinder/dremel.. and yes after trying my idea out on a shot chain I've identified a few problems. Pulled right bar off my daily used saw and corrected the issues. Looks like i keep old bars around to use for this..

 

[Ted Jenkins]

There are those who insist that a chain be taken off your saw and out under a grinder for you to happily go about throwing chips with your saw. I am not one of them. Almost with out fail do not resort to a electric grinder although I have several to choose from. I make about six chains at a time and put them in ammo boxes specifically for that saw. Every saw has its own ammo box with a scrench three spare chains spark plug and a few things like air filter. That way when starting a day I will not have to look around for this or that. For most part all my sharpening is done in the field. I do this because it is far faster cheaper and more effective then setting up a grinder, but for those who sharpen other peoples chain then a grinder works well. There are many who can hold their saw down in the field and sharpen away. I need my vices. There are several commercial vices one can buy, but I make my own. I weld a lag bolt onto my vice then it can easily be screwed into a log or a stump to securely hold my bar in place to sharpen. I take a flat file to lower the rakers every other sharpening, but some times if the chain needs more than two strokes it gets adjusted every time. I adjust the rakers first so that if I get careless and touch the cutters I will not have to go back to touch up the cutters. I look at each cutter to guestimate how much to take off the raker then take a stroke or two. Some file the rakers to a point as I just file them flat and let them go. The really beautiful thing about sharpening in the field is that small adjustments can be made right then and there. Steeper angles on the cutters or less of a gullet for tougher harder woods. In the last fifty chains there was no need to take the bar off the saw until the chain was to be thrown away. If the chain stays sharp often the filter will not need anything until the chain is gone. When the chain is worn out the saw gets a thorough cleaning and the bar turned around. It will take most people some time to learn to be able to free hand file their chains well. Yes it takes some practice and skill. It has been at least five years since I ever thought about using a back up chain, but if needed I have three to chose from. Now if you are using a guide it will not take long before you will not need them. However if you are only cutting six cords for personal use a year then there is not much purpose to increase ones skill level to a art form unless you want to. Thanks

 

[Charlie1124]

I sharpen mostly for myself. I burn firewood. Sell firewood. Sell to sawmills and tree work. Trimming / removal. So I tend to use saws everyday. I sharpen chains because I oddly enjoy it and find it relaxing. I use files because I can feel the filing. I don't have a issue getting razor blade edge on my teeth.. or sharpening. I just wanted to avoid pulling my daily saw apart just to sharpen different chain. Then put my other bar n chain back on after done sharpening. .
My post here was more looking for ideas on ways to improve my idea.. but apparently if I'm not using everyone else's apprived method I'm doing something wrong. Or no one offers up advice.. thanks Ted Jenkins for your advice.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Charlie what kind of assortment of saws do you have? If you have several saws the same like I do then why not sharpen all your saws with the chain intact and then removing bar or chain will not be necessary. I like to keep the saws rotating a bit so that they all get used some. That way the fuel does not get stale and if a problem arises it will be known. There have been a number of AS people who have made devices to clamp the chain for sharpening. For me mostly like to not have to take the chain off to sharpen. I however do not enjoy running files over my chain just like to pull the trigger. Then there is the hauling the splitting the delivering and then the paper work. The best part for me is when working in remote areas and can watch wildlife or eating watermelon in the summer after a midday nap. Thanks

 

[pioneerguy600]

If sharpening at home in a shop you could just clamp a bar in a bench vice and mount your filing guide to it, an old hard nosed bar would be best, all the chain needs is a bar groove to hold the drive links in. Different chains would fit if the bar gauge is wide enough as in .063 then most all chain from .050 ,.058 and .063 would all fit in it.The filing jig would need to be adjusted for different pitches as the tie straps and cutter size are different between .325, 3/8" and .404 chains.

 

[jchipps]

Yes I have heard it all. About how file guides are a crutch. Sharpen faster with a grinder/dremel.. and yes after trying my idea out on a shot chain I've identified a few problems. Pulled right bar off my daily used saw and corrected the issues. Looks like i keep old bars around to use for this..

I’m the last person who would ever suggest a dremel or a grinder.

As to crutches:

Like real crutches, they can sometimes be useful or even needed for some to gain strength and coordination.

But at some point the crutch needs laid aside.

You may limp a little at first.
It’s expected.

But soon enough the limp will heal and you’ll be walking straight and tall.

Next thing you know, you’re up and ‘running’ with no pain at all.

.....and wondering WHY you ever got so dependent on that crutch in the first place.

 

[HarleyT]

I think most folks that do not like grinders, have never been around someone that uses them correctly.

this site seems to have a bunch of guys that could tear up an anvil anyway.....


I would think that one would at least go to a grinder if he had a badly damaged chain.
Or she......

 

[pioneerguy600]

I think most folks that do not like grinders, have never been around someone that uses them correctly.

this site seems to have a bunch of guys that could tear up an anvil anyway.....


I would think that one would at least go to a grinder if he had a badly damaged chain.
Or she......

Hell no!

 

[HarleyT]

Hell no!

The "she" comment?

 

[Andrew9802]

Check out the 3 in 1 files. They are easy to use and do a great job. Stihl makes them as well as a few other brands.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pioneerguy600]

They actually do a fair job, especially for those that have not figured out free hand filing at a higher level.

 

[Eskimo]

If the bar is secured.. chain is stationary while filing. Does the chain not fitting the nose sprocket or chain having slack under bar affect filing?

It sounds to me as though you know what you want to accomplish - as in, you know when you've filed a tooth to your satisfaction.

If the rig you described lets you accomplish that with a minimum of fuss, then hey, you've done the test and gotten results - super!

I can imagine a more elaborate setup that might make the chain "stay put" better - but I wouldn't go there unless results indicated that I needed to.

 

[jchipps]

I would think that one would at least go to a grinder if he had a badly damaged chain.
Or she......

I will agree with that statement to some degree.

But I’ll add this:
Those who hand file, rather than flip on a machine, or drop their chain off for someone else to deal with, have a greater appreciation for the work involved to ‘make’ and ‘keep’ that chain sharp.
Therefore they learn the correct operating techniques and/or take that extra 10 seconds to make the cut cleanly, rather than Willy Nilly burying their bar in the ground ... then swapping out rocked chains, and the cycle continues $$$

The sharpening shops, grinder manufacturers and gadget makers love them .... it’s $$$ in the bank.
But hey, there’s nothing wrong with making a buck either.
You’ve got a never ending supply of customers willing to pay.

I’m just not one of them

 

[Brent Nowell]

On topic here, but a question to add.

I’ve been sharpening my ripping chain using a file guide, I find it works well for my needs, however there are no 10 degree angle marks on it.
I put some on it using a sharpie and it works but they are not very good marks.
Any ideas on how to add 10 degree marks that are precise? Very interested here on your ideas

 

[Philbert]

I rummaged around and found a old (2012) ms290 case missing alot of parts. Mounted a bar on it If the bar is secured.. chain is stationary while filing. Does the chain not fitting the nose sprocket or chain having slack under bar affect filing?

Welcome to A.S.! Short answer is that you need to find something that works for you. I agree that mounting and un-mounting the chain, just to sharpen, can be a pain. Lots of options

I have used the Granberg style filing guides, which provide great results. I collected 'scrap' .050 and .063 gauge bars, drove the nose sprocket out (so that pitch does not matter), and clamp these in a vise. The Granberg style tools have a 'finger' or 'dog' that holds the chain in position when you file.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/

The stump vise in this thread has a built in stop to use on a bar that is mounted or not:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/tecomec-stump-vise-with-chain-stop.325255/

Filing vises are another option for holding chains off the saw when filing. Several threads on those:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-low-tech-filing-vise.245004/#post-4523956
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-low-er-tech-filing-vise.277258/
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/my-new-saw-chain-vise.120500/
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/i-made-some-chain-vises.240935/

And, there are commercially available products to replace your old MS290 case to tension the chain on a correctly sized bar, like this:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/introducing-the-new-chainmeister.239225/

I’ve been sharpening my ripping chain using a file guide, . . ., however there are no 10 degree angle marks on it. I put some on it using a sharpie and it works but they are not very good marks. Any ideas on how to add 10 degree marks that are precise?

Scratch awl and a protractor. Or label maker tape.

Philbert

 

[Huskitoter]

If sharpening at home in a shop you could just clamp a bar in a bench vice and mount your filing guide to it, an old hard nosed bar would be best, all the chain needs is a bar groove to hold the drive links in. Different chains would fit if the bar gauge is wide enough as in .063 then most all chain from .050 ,.058 and .063 would all fit in it.The filing jig would need to be adjusted for different pitches as the tie straps and cutter size are different between .325, 3/8" and .404 chains.

Sounds good but wouldn't a .050 link want to lay over when you push a file across it? I'm guessing a new bar with a tight groove would be easier to work with than an old bar with a worn groove, especially with no tension on the chain.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Sounds good but wouldn't a .050 link want to lay over when you push a file across it? I'm guessing a new bar with a tight groove would be easier to work with than an old bar with a worn groove, especially with no tension on the chain.

Do you file with a clamp on guide?
If so does your filing guide not have a back and front tensioner on it, all the ones I have seen have a bar across the back and front that snugs up against the tiestraps holding the chain snugly.