Just found out one of the Company's I work for has an air spade kicking around and I want to test it out on a few trees. Anyone have any info or tips? I'm thinking about using a silt fence to contain the mess. The trees in question are post construction compaction and not important trees to the owner so if thay go it's no big deal but I'm curious to see how it works and I've always wanted to try one.
Air spade info
- Thread starter woodville
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Ed Roland
Addicted to ArboristSite
Use a circular motion, variably moving the nozzle in and out of the soil to a depth of 12" and about 10' from the trunk in diameter. Blow 25% out of the ring so you can amend with that much compost, prescription soil amendment/elements. Mulch over with 3-4". Add water, enjoy.
*Make sure the soil is well-watered before trying it (a couple of inches over a few days ahead of time) - especially if it is "construction specialty" compacted clay. You will think the airspade worthless if that is your first experience with it... It will not move dry soil.
*Use a face sheild, safety glasses, and ear plugs.
*As for the mess: It makes less of a mess of the surrounding area than you'd think, and more of a mess of you than you'd think. The blown soil really doesn't travel too far so a fence may not be necessary (depending on conditions/location).
*Are you going to blow out a whole area (better) or just do some radial trenching (takes less time, tears up less turf)? If radial trenching, be sure to just poke some holes between each trench. Either way, I'd poke some holes further away from the tree as well. Just hold the tip on the ground squeeze the trigger and let it make its way into the hole (note: this does not work as well with the angled tip on AirSpades...)
*Plan to bring home pockets full of dirt
*Use a face sheild, safety glasses, and ear plugs.
*As for the mess: It makes less of a mess of the surrounding area than you'd think, and more of a mess of you than you'd think. The blown soil really doesn't travel too far so a fence may not be necessary (depending on conditions/location).
*Are you going to blow out a whole area (better) or just do some radial trenching (takes less time, tears up less turf)? If radial trenching, be sure to just poke some holes between each trench. Either way, I'd poke some holes further away from the tree as well. Just hold the tip on the ground squeeze the trigger and let it make its way into the hole (note: this does not work as well with the angled tip on AirSpades...)
*Plan to bring home pockets full of dirt
Cool thanks for the help. I'm also mixing in compost and mulch along with a handful or two of a slow release 14-14-14. When I water it in I'm gonna add PHC bio-pack to the water. Also on site are a few new hawthorns packed in solid clay balls about 1 1/2 feet to deep "came in from the nursery like that". The tops are sh*ting the bed and watering is only penetrating about 3" at best. So I'll let you guys know know later how the treatment works.
MarsCrash
ArboristSite Lurker
Air Spade tips
Remember to kick the hozzle back down. ...Unless you really like the taste of dirt. I've seen some trees with root compaction damage really turn around with aeration and Cambistat.
Remember to kick the hozzle back down. ...Unless you really like the taste of dirt. I've seen some trees with root compaction damage really turn around with aeration and Cambistat.
mckeetree
Addicted to ArboristSite
Keep the p.s.i. about 90 to 105 at the gun.
