All time most reliable saws?

[zogger]

Two categories, old school, rigid frame, etc, then more modern with antivibe of some sort and/or including chainbrake. Just wondering what is *the* most cast iron bullet proof reliable model. Never fail, starts well, idles well, cuts and oils, just add mix and bar oil, year after decade, nuthin breaks, it just works. Either category doesn't have to be the most powerful or biggest, the criteria is absolutely reliable, a "timex" rating. TIA!

 

[groundup]

441 cm
Starts cold, starts hot, runs at an optimal tune in all cuts

 

[zogger]

441 cm
Starts cold, starts hot, runs at an optimal tune in all cuts

I ran one of those two summers ago and will admit it was the smoothest saw I have ever touched. Two pulls start from cold, plenty of power. The self tuning was neat, you could hear it and feel it adjusting.

 

[GrassGuerilla]

Two categories, old school, rigid frame, etc, then more modern with antivibe of some sort and/or including chainbrake. Just wondering what is *the* most cast iron bullet proof reliable model. Never fail, starts well, idles well, cuts and oils, just add mix and bar oil, year after decade, nuthin breaks, it just works. Either category doesn't have to be the most powerful or biggest, the criteria is absolutely reliable, a "timex" rating. TIA!

First thing that enters my mind, and almost verbatim how I've often described my opinion of the brand... Echo. Describes the "character" of the brand. Not just the chainsaws. The Toyota of OPE.

Edit: for a specific model, cs4400. It ain't sexy, it just works.

 

[Whitespider]

(shrug)
I've run a Stihl 026 for over 20 years now. I keep it out in the unheated (unless I light a fire out there), detached shop/garage... I've never brought it in the house that I remember. The only "cleaning" it's ever received is a blow-off with compressed air. It starts, always starts, even when it's below zero out there. I've replaced the rim sprocket a few times. About three, maybe four years ago I replaced the spark plug... not because it quit working, I just figured it was about time (and I kept the old one for a spare). And I've "worn-out" a couple of those "flocked" air filters by brushing them off with a stiff brush. Other than that... nothing... even the fuel lines and starter rope are original. After 20-some years of use it still has enough compression to yank the rope from your fingers if ya' get a little complacent and lazy with your starting technique.

It has been, hands-down, the most reliable and steady small engine powered piece of equipment I've ever owned... if someone offered me a brand spankin' new saw as an even-up trade, I'd turn them down cold. I run a 16, and a 20 inch bar on it... and yeah, it pulls that 20 just fine, even with it buried full length in oak, no complaints. When I first got it I had three other saws; two or three years later I got rid of 'em... cause they hadn't even been started for near two years. It's just damn hard to beat a saw weighing less than 10 pounds that can pull a 20 inch bar.

You asked... and there you have my "Timex" rating.

Oh... if'n ya' go lookin' for one... if it's got stick-on, rather then riveted metal badges, it ain't the same saw I have. Stihl changed something about the time they quit using the riveted metal badges... I don't know what it was, but the saws without them just ain't the same, they even sound different.
Somebody once told me that the real early 026's were made in Germany, not the USA... I don't know for a fact that's true, I've just be "told" that. But, mine is an "early" one... it was one of the first my dealer sold.
*

 

[rwoods]

Swedish hand saw. As to chainsaws, I have only owned two brands but I dare say a Stihl 036Pro should rank high on any list. My John Deere branded Echo string trimmer has been the most reliable two stroke of any type that I have ever owned. Ron

 

[rwoods]

I have a few 30 to 35 year old McCullochs; among those the most reliable starting are the 125s. I have not run or owned the 125s long enough to make a long term statement but so far they start every time despite months of sitting. Over the years I've owned saws that ran great but wore you out starting them. I'm too old to go back to that nonsense although I still own one that now sits in the rack (brought new in 1982). Ron

 

[Twindad]

Got to give my old school vote to the venerable xl12/sxl.

 

[Herd8497]

My 051 is always ready after two pulls on choke. Torque and steadiness that has never let me down, it's certainly no sprinter though

 

[svk]

Husky L65. In the family since new in 78'. Has needed about three carb cleanings, coil, and a recoil spring in 36 years.

Felled/bucked close to 30 cords with it this year alone.

 

[zogger]

All good candidates and stories guys, keep em coming!

 

[Streblerm]

My 034s has been dead reliable. When I got it it had some scoring on the exhaust side but still ran great. With a new piston cleaned up cylinder and deleted base gasket it has been trouble free for many many cords of wood. It never fails to start although it does take a few pulls to get it started after sitting for a long time.

I bought it as a package deal with a burned up leaf blower and a snapper lawn mower for $125. I cleaned up the mower and sold it recouping all my money. The saw had not been babied. I replaced the clutch drum and bearing along with the oil line. It is still running original fuel lines and carb diaphragm.

My other most reliable saw is a poulan pro 330. I gave it to my dad about 5 years ago. It is his main saw. The case was cracked behind the chain adjuster which I fixed with epoxy. Other than some clean up I did less to it than the 034. IIRC I had less than $100 in it including a new 18" small husky mount cub cadet bar and a couple chains. Pops leaves gas in it all the time and it still never fails to start. It is also still sporting original fuel lines and carb diaphragms. At a 10% displacement disadvantage over the 034 it doesn't give much away in terms of performance.

I enjoy running other saws but these two always go cutting with us. They don't always get run but always do when needed. I have enough parts on hand to keep both of them running for another 25+ years.

 

[aarolar]

Y'all may laugh but my grandpa bought a pair of 021s back in the early 90s not sure exactly was too young but they were put through hell heating his house for years then retired untill I got house when I dug them back out and made one from two. It even got submurged a few times cutting trees across the creek but lived on until some scumbag stole it out of my toolbox one day.

 

[AIM]

I bought my Husky 55 used when I started burning wood about 7-8 years ago and it's still my go to saw every time out. At one time I researched it's year of manufacturer and it comes to me that maybe it was an 80's saw. Can't remember for sure though.
My 55 just plain runs every time.

 

[rarefish383]

No question, my Dads 1972 Homelite Super 1050 Automatic. It put in 20 years of commercial service, then another 20 years of me doing side work and firewood, then I put it on a mill with the 36 inch bar. Last year I was getting ready to mill a big Red Oak log for sideboards on my trailer. I fueled it up and and over filled it, spilling gas on it. Pulled the starter and a big flame shot out the gutted muffler and set it on fire. It took at least 3 or 4 minutes to get to the garage and grab the fire ext. It still runs great, but the fire melted the foam wrap on the handles. My wife told me to retire the poor old thing and get a new saw. So I got a new 660. It's way lighter, smoother, quieter, and new. But the 1050 will still hold it's own if you have the back to hold on to it all day, Joe.

 

[Cheesecutter]

I would have to say my Jonsered 2171. Too many battle scars to ever win a beauty contest, but she's always ready to knock the enemy down to size.

 

[lindnova]

My MS260 (2004) has been my main workhorse until I upgraded 2 years ago. It is a little slow in big oaks, but gets the job done. That saw sure will cut and it is light. I still use it a lot for all the small stuff. Runs like new after a lot of hard use. In 10 years I have replaced crankshaft seal, 2 rim sprockets, 1 spark plug and 1 air filter. Also replaced the original bar 3 years ago.

I did have a problem the first year where the muffler melted the chain guard, but they fixed it under warranty and installed a muffler deflector and haven't had the problem since. I apparently did more big, slow cutting than most with this saw.

This was also the saw that caught the bark and moss on fire on an oak which spread an ember to the chips which caught leaves on fire and made for an interesting afternoon in a windy dry woods a few years ago. I figure slow cutting and the muffler sitting in one spot for too long. It didn't really flare anything up much, but was hard to get out and kept spreading slowly. I ended up making a firestop by raking leave out of a spot so it would stop burning.

 

[sld961]

Stihl 028 is a pretty bulletproof saw.

 

[blades]

Most reliable saw- the one that( if don't do your own repair work) the local shop sells and services what ever the brand. That said I have a passion for Dolmars particularly the 6400 and 7900 units but my old 116si( not even sure of age 20 something maybe more) is still pounding out rounds and my 112 is still doing the trimming work. Have a tiny echo 36cc its ok and a couple of big old boys, Stilh 084 and a 075 ( 122cc & 111cc ) They only come out to play when diameters are 30" on up. Neither are for the faint of heart.

 

[Fred Wright]

Can't seem to break this Husky 353 no matter how hard I push it. And it's been worked like a rented mule 0ver four years. It can be setting for weeks and starts on the 2nd or 3rd pull. Hot or cold, it fires right up.

I've yet to have to dig into it... just general maintenance. It still has the original spark plug. I've managed to wreck chain loops and a guide bar, had the power head fall in a puddle after breaking a pinch. Clean it up, dry it out and it's back to work we go.