ANOTHER NOOB THREAD

[woodchip rookie]

I have been reading my eyeballs out about saws and everything else I come across on here to learn what I can. I have many questions but 1st lemme splain some stuff....

I bought a little poulan 10yrs ago for stuff around the house. I used it pretty heavily the 1st year or so clearing trees and brush then it sat in the shed for a couple years. With the same gas. After a couple years I pulled it out because I got a couple of old stoves and started scavenging firewood. (yep, I'm one of "those guys"). The little poulan is a tank. Never missed a beat. But then I got into some bigger trees so I needed atleast a bigger bar. Not so much power but a bar that could get across 16+" trees. So I found one of those 50cc, 20" Craftsman/Husq/Poulan inbred saws. It runs ok, especially since it isn't even broke in yet, and it does better on the bigger stuff than the little poulan. I have been reading about muff mods and I have a mechanical backround so mod/fab/machine/welding isnt an issue, but I just recently started contemplating different chains. The last time I used the poulan I had to really dig in to get the chain to bite. I have 4 chains for this saw. I (presently) take my chains to the local hardware and have them sharpened but this last go-around the chains dont wanna cut. So 1st round of questions:

1) What jig/holder/file set do I need to sharpen (all types) of chain? Since I plan on changing the type of chain I am using from whatever comes on the saws to a more aggressive (pro?) chain, will the Stihl chain jig thing work for all types of chain?

2) Regarding muffler mods, does that Craftsman saw have a carb on it that makes the mod hard to tune for? Or is it just the strait walbro style H/L carbiTOOTER?(!! ]

3) What type of chain do I need thats better than the safety/factory chains?

I'm sure I'll ask more later but thats a good start....

 

[Bmezz88]

In regards to your first question, do you know the pitch of your chains you want to sharpen?

 

[Bmezz88]

By the way, Welcome to AS. You came to the right place!

 

[Franny K]

I won't know but you will have to state exactly what model saw you are asking about the adjustments on the carb, and the other stuff.

The general idea with the file is to hold it so 20% is above the top surface of the tooth. Since larger chains use larger file diameters what you seek is not realistic. At least not in the simplest design, the kind that clamps to the bar and has a rod above the file to guide the motion should do what you want. Probably would work best on an unused bar and lightly used drive links on the chain.

I really do not have trouble using the "safety" chains, the problems come as they get sharpened half way back and the safety devices need modified.

 

[woodchip rookie]

In regards to your first question, do you know the pitch of your chains you want to sharpen?

I do not but the Craftsman has the chain info on the handle. I will have to do some research or post the poulan number here. When I get home I can post model #'s and the chain info on the craftsman. I have seen people sharpen chains without the jig thing. Do I just need a set of files?

 

[woodchip rookie]

I am also looking for a small top handle saw. Im not starting a brand war because I'm not partial but I'm not paying $480 for a Stihl 150. So something OTHER than that one.

 

[Chris-PA]

If you have a good feel for mechanical things and sharpening of tools, then the best way to get a sharp chain is to make or buy a chain vice. There have been people selling very nice ones on here in the past. This is one I made:




It is not perfect but works well enough. The angles are marked off.

Then all you need are the right files, some good light and maybe a glove for holding the files. Also you will need a kit for filing the depth gauges - the cheap Oregon ones will do fine until the cutters get really worn back.

Oregon has all the information about their chains on their site - angles, files, etc.

The factory chain on the PP5020 is 3/8 Vanguard that has the folded over drive depth gauges. I have not messed with it but likely they didn't know how to address those so now it won't cut.

I'll go against the flow as usual and say that the safety features on most of the chain won't get in the way at all unless you are bore cutting or some such, but it will make a bad sharpening job much worse. If you have safety chain and it won't cut, then it is not filed correctly. That said, I don't like the older Oregon safety styles with the big shark fin tie straps and I grind all those off.

 

[woodchip rookie]

So what should I get for the 20" Craftsman?

 

[Okie]

You probably are using the LOW KICKback type safety chains.
Which in my opinion are made for Nancy's and Pansies.

The ones with the big shark fin straps as mentioned above usually won't cut good after they have been sharpened few times due to they cutting tooth being set too low behind the depth tangs.

Lay a straight edge across the top of the teeth on a new chain and then your chains and you can see the difference in the cutter tooth height.

Lots of good reading info on-line about hand filing saw chains.

When you find out what size sharpening file you need buy 2 of each size because you will break the first one usually by pressing too hard sideways and get a flat bastard file and grind off the edges smooth for filing the depth tangs down.

And get that wood stove stocked up with plenty of fuel for mommy this summer. (so she don't have to cut the wood herself, because if mommy not happy no one is happy)
Meals taste better when prepared on a wood stove and a cast iron skillet, especially fried squirrel and Arkansas gravy.

 

[Franny K]

I am also looking for a small top handle saw. Im not starting a brand war because I'm not partial but I'm not paying $480 for a Stihl 150. So something OTHER than that one.

If you wait a couple of months the Paul Bunyan show isn't too far. Both Husqvarna and Echo had top handle saws to try out two years ago. Dolmar was there but no top handle, Stihl for some reason had the timbersports, the Stihl dealers has the wood carving but no Stihl to try out.

 

[woodchip rookie]

Squirrel? We have big deer here. (Central Ohio)

 

[woodchip rookie]

Do they have show specials at the show?

 

[Bmezz88]

I have a Husqvarna T435 top handle. Its pretty decent and doesn't break the bank.

 

[Okie]

Squirrel? We have big deer here. (Central Ohio)

Yep, young squirrels fried and Arkansas Gravy. (health food)
Squirrels are easier for Mommy to clean and prepare than a BIG old rutting buck deer and less stick in the house when cooking.

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

welcome to the AS... we all started here at the same place...

like selecting camshafts for an engine... ask any engine builder across the USA... and every one will have a dif answer... same with chainsaw questions. however, I am not saying what is said as in a thread like this is not good, only that everyone will have their own opinion.

sounds like you want a simple solution. u say a top handle. many to choose from. all will work well, generally speaking. here is one that works exceptionally well. under $300.00. roars like a ported saw, u need foam and head muffs, that has extra timing and some hot muf mods... tons of power spits both torque and chips... and all it asks for is clean fuel, treat it nice and keep its chain sharp... this is a true Top Ten contender for 'best saws, in my opinion...' category for small to large but not huge bucking, limbing etc...maybe even some light to med felling, too...

Echo CS-271T... the mouse that roars... and has the will of a lion. and a demeanor to back it all up! a little a**kicker!! believe it!

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

there is more info on this particular saw in scrounging and splitting threads over in wood forum....

 

[Chris-PA]

So what should I get for the 20" Craftsman?

For the PP5020 go to Tractor Supply and get a loop of 3/8 70DL full chisel non-safety. It's Chinese Tri-Link under some other brand. It works fine. Don't waste money on their files though, get a 3-pack of Stihl 5.5mm files. They are cheap and work very well.

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

For the PP5020 go to Tractor Supply and get a loop of 3/8 70DL full chisel non-safety. It's Chinese Tri-Link under some other brand. It works fine. Don't waste money on their files though, get a 3-pack of Stihl 5.5mm files. They are cheap and work very well.

personally, I like the chain sharpening kits... helps keep file correctly in position, etc. angles, etc. there are plenty good vids on utube addressing chainsaw chain sharpening... safety and techniques. very helpful...

as many know, and have stated... best performance upgrade to any chainsaw is a... sharp chain. depending on wood and saw, I will touch up and resharpen mine as often as every tank of fuel...

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

For the 5020 I would get some oregon LGX or stihl RS.

Little top handle. You can get used echo's with AV = very important to me. $50 to $150


adding info. Come to think about it I have a poulan 1800 needs carb rebuilt and a poulan 2300cva needs carb rebuilt you could even use. I dont mess with these anymore.
Draw backs 1800 no AV. 2300cva little heavy for top handle but not bad.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

File guide I like. http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/filing-tools/fileguide/

Guys that cant get a hang of it might be better off with this. http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201b/201b01/201b0105.html

or this http://www.pferdusa.com/products/201b/201b01/201b0106P.html