Another stove recommendation thread

[unclemoustache]

Got a big drafty victorian house, so I need some serious BTU's - 70K or above.

What are your thoughts on cast iron vs. steel vs. soapstone vs. whatever?

Would also like:
- good fire control. Stove needs to be tight, and dampers work well.
- outside combustion air. Don't want to suck out the warm air from the room.
- easy ash removal. I like my old 'Charter Oak' stove out in my shop - it's got a coal grate which allows/clinkers for the ashes to drop down below, where I can open another door to scoop out the ashes. Stove can be going full blast while emptying out ashes.
- Top or side loading as well as front.


I can't seem to find a stove with ALL of those features. The old-fashioned parlor and pot-bellied stoves don't have outside combustion air control, and don't seem to be very tight, but they do have the easy ash removal, and some are large enough.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Wife'nHubby]

No a specific recommendation necessarily but we stayed away from steel because (we heard) while it put off heat quickly it also cooled down as quickly, but that should carry a caveat "depends on brand" - plus I didn't particularly like the looks of the steel stoves we looked at. As far as steel stoves go, the Englander 30 gets rave reviews.

I love the looks of soapstone, would have gone for it but doing a hearth mount it wouldn't have worked. I hear the soapstone models get rave reviews for their 'gentle, long lasting heat', not sure if any soapstone has an ash pan.

As far as cast - that's what we have, heating a not so well insulated/older windows 1950's ranch and we are doing well.

One more caveat: Our stove guy said, given where we live (Wisconsin), to deduct 25% off manufacturer sq. ft. heating claims. Our Olso is rated for 2,000 sq.ft. We are only heating about 1500 sq. ft. of our 1700 sq.ft. home (why heat extra bedrooms when they are not being used?). 25% off 2,000 sq. ft. puts us right in the ball park for effectively heating in 1,500 sq.ft. We have temp fluctuations of only 2-4 degrees from one end of our house to the other as long as we have a small fan in the bedroom hallway blowing cooler air towards the room the stove is in.

A good place for stove reviews is: http://**********/econtent/index.php/ratings/

Shari

 

[promac850]

I couldn't say for sure, but a Vogelzang cast iron potbelly stove puts out 200,000 BTU's per hour, which should be more than enough. If you do get one of the potbelly stoves, beware, you may be cooked alive if you seal up that old house. It'll get hot in there.

A Lopi Liberty puts out 74,300 BTU's per hour. Good stove, but I don't know if it has the features that you want.

My Lopi Answer puts out a max of 66,800 BTU's per hour. I will let you know that Lopi's burn times are exaggerated, as I could not get 8 hours like they claim. With hardwood too. It was more like 4-5 hours at best.

Edit: look at lopistoves.com, and try northerntool.com Northern Tool sells some great stoves, and there are reviews on most of them. The Lopi site gives definite sizes, heat outputs, and I think pricing too. (beware, Lopi's are extremely expensive when bought new, we ended up buying ours used) You have to buy the stove and door seperately when buying a Lopi new.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Vogelzang

Just make sure if you look at this brand that it is EPA rated as only a few of their models are EPA rated.

I will let you know that Lopi's burn times are exaggerated, as I could not get 8 hours like they claim. With hardwood too. It was more like 4-5 hours at best.

Wood stove burns times are subjective - it seems 'burn time' equates 'enough coals left to start a new fire', which in our cast with our Oslo means our stove temp is around 200 after 8 hours but not putting out effective at that low a temp. Six hours is good for our Oslo - depends on the type and seasoned status of the wood being burned.

I think the soapstone stoves (Woodstock and Hearthstone) have long burn/heat times and also the (EDIT) Blaze King stoves seem to be knocking the socks off people for their long burn/heat times.

NOTE: The $1,500 tax credit expires end of this month.... I've heard next year the credit will only be $500.

Shari

 

[climberjones]

magnolia 2015 any body?

Ijust bought a magnolia 2015 free standing wood stove does any body have one or know the burn time with that model i havnt had time to hook it up yet any input would be nice!!

 

[Ambull]

One more caveat: Our stove guy said, given where we live (Wisconsin), to deduct 25% off manufacturer sq. ft. heating claims.

Yes the square foot heating claims are just a guideline. Most houses can not be heated to the claim, regardless of location. The funny thing is that you are really heating cubic feet, not square feet.

In general I would oversize as much as possible. You can always throttle it back. Plus the bigger stoves will burn overnight much better.

In an old house with many air leaks, I don't think that an outside air kit will make any difference at all. Your house will be letting in cold air anyway. If you look at specifications, there is no difference with the outside air kit.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

sorry - I edited my post #4.

Shari

 

[coog]

yes the square foot heating claims are just a guideline. Most houses can not be heated to the claim, regardless of location. The funny thing is that you are really heating cubic feet, not square feet.

In general i would oversize as much as possible. You can always throttle it back. Plus the bigger stoves will burn overnight much better.

In an old house with many air leaks, i don't think that an outside air kit will make any difference at all. Your house will be letting in cold air anyway. If you look at specifications, there is no difference with the outside air kit.

+1

 

[Rickochet]

Uncle 'Stash--- As you well know, advice on the site is typically biased toward whatever particular brand we own. We all like to justify and promote our rationale for our purchases. Now with that said, I did a tremendous amount of research for stoves available in our locale.

I talked to 7 different dealers, some selling identical manufacturers and also some selling differing mfgs. The reason why I bought the Napoleon 1900 pedestal stove for my application is a result of the information I received from the dealers and also people who have it in use.

The majority of dealers concurred that the Napoleon 1900 had the best chance of meeting my needs. I am heating a tight, well insulated, reasonably new home with about 2,000 feet on the main floor, and a full basement. This is a completely different situation than yours.

My stove is a steel stove lined with fire brick. It is very tight, has an outside combustion air option, provides 85,000 BTU's and heats 3,500 plus square feet. I get awesome burn times. I can load my large 3 cubic foot fire box with a full load of large hickory splits on a nice bed of coals and it will still be heating in 12 hours. All I have to do is pull the coals to the front toward the glass door, add some splits and presto, we are quickly burning again.

The burn time really depends upon the quality of the wood. Toss a full box of some marginal elm in and maybe 6 to 8 hours is all it will do. Fortunately I have a wonderful supply of Shagbark Hickory that burns very well, therefore my stove really rocks in the burn time stats.

The 1900 also has a very nice large ash pan that is user friendly. It has a hinged lid that folds neatly over the ashes, providing full encapsulation as you walk through the house to dump the ashes on the garden. My wife really likes that feature---less dust!

For the loading features, the 1900 only is a front loader. A deep fire box that will take a 22" log works well for me. My research from actual owners of Harmon stoves with top load capabilities revealed that the stove often smokes badly when opening the top. A side load feature can also be a hindrance unless the stove has plenty of clearance on the side. If you have a very open area, it may work well in your application.

The 1900 also has a very efficient infinitely adjustable blower that distributes the heat very quietly. I would highly recommend the blower on any stove!

Now I have highlighted the attributes of the Napoleon 1900. The downsides..... really very few. We have had the stove burning 24-7 throughout the Indiana heating season for going on 4 years. The vermiculite baffles in the heating chamber will probably need replaced next year at a cost of $60. The door seal is holding up very well, as is the easy to operate air control.

There is my review of the Napoleon 1900 which I believe is just what I wanted and if something arose to place me a situation to buy a new stove, the Napoleon 1900 would be at the top of my list. However, I would certainly research any new options as the stove manufacturers are always making improvements! Good luck at keep us posted with your decision!

And Merry Christmas!!!!

 

[logbutcher]

Got a big drafty victorian house, so I need some serious BTU's - 70K or above.

What are your thoughts on cast iron vs. steel vs. soapstone vs. whatever?

Would also like:
- good fire control. Stove needs to be tight, and dampers work well.
- outside combustion air. Don't want to suck out the warm air from the room.
- easy ash removal. I like my old 'Charter Oak' stove out in my shop - it's got a coal grate which allows/clinkers for the ashes to drop down below, where I can open another door to scoop out the ashes. Stove can be going full blast while emptying out ashes.
- Top or side loading as well as front.


I can't seem to find a stove with ALL of those features. The old-fashioned parlor and pot-bellied stoves don't have outside combustion air control, and don't seem to be very tight, but they do have the easy ash removal, and some are large enough.

Thanks in advance!

You, U.M., are one tough demanding cookie.

1. Forget the stove material, the so-called "heat holding" ability is overrated.

2. Look for a reliable, proven maker that has a track record with owners. Customer service and QC are vital. Ask around.

3. Diddle ( you know how ? :hmm3grin2orange with stoves at dealers. This will be a long time companion, you got to enjoy the controls.

4. Don't look at price alone. A few hundred $$$ will amortize in a couple of years anyhow---like a good vehicle.

5. The wood stove will be furniture where you spend the most time. Get a pretty one.

6. Like the man said: forget outside air. Search the experiences and science of it, especially in your leaky Victorian.

Now for the not-opinionated-opinions:

Don't dismiss cat stoves, they run long, run well, run clean, save wood OVER non-cat stoves. (We know, we got one of each heating the place ! ). Yes, there is ONE (count 'em: "1" ) extra step in the burn cycle.

Yes, the cat needs cleaning, maintenance, and replacement every +/- 12,000 hours of burning, ~ 2-3 years. BUT- saving close to 1/3 of your wood for the same BTU output of a non-cat will make it up.

Cat stoves can be damped way down AND still burn clean and efficiently unlike non cats.

Look carefully at Woodstock Soapstone Stoves in N.H. According to users: great quality, service, care. Pretty.

JMNSHO

 

[sunfish]

Was me, I'd get a big Jotul and never look back.

 

[coog]

Maybe stick with the Victorian theme?

 

[GeeVee]

Im only posting cause its a free world?

Seriously, only to add to what others have said.

Forget the tax credit thing.... Long term it will wash out. I spill more golden sodas (dumb dogs) in a month than a tax credit for a home improvement in the short run is worth.

With a drafty house, your victorian, one stove has work to do to begin with and will be a monger, but I doubt you have to worry about make-up air.

I prolly couldn't be convinced that an old school antique box stove can't do what you want, and can shun modern.

You're going to buy on your own instinct, so don't torture yourself over the vagarities of "experience" from all over the globe's fetch that provide some conflict between the extolled vitures between, just becasue the internet is such a information black hole.

I'd be on some cast iron, half as big as a safe, and find ways to pull the heat around the multiple floors.

You don't have a ducted HVAC do you.....

Really, for me, I see it as a architectural issue versus a choice of heaters issue. You're working with challenges of mulitple foors, drafts, a full belly button of lint for insulation, it ain't happening that there is a lightning bolt cure.

Buy what you want and enjoy that. It will be enough.

 

[Richard_]

- 70K or above.

not quite 70k

http://blazeking.com/wood-king.html

 

[Richard_]

http://www.pacificenergy.net/product_summit.php

I have a Pacific Insert and it works really nice , this one posted is rated for up to 3000 sq. ft.

 

[Ambull]

Maybe stick with the Victorian theme?

You need the ones with the ash pans, like mine. I heat 5000 square feet exclusively with these two stoves. It is currently about 20 degF outside, and it is 75 in my living room.

Downside is that I have already burned three cords this year.

 

[coog]

It was your stove I had in mind when I posted. As far as your burn rate, beauty is seldom cheap. I love your stove and the beautiful post and beam in which it resides.

 

[Ambull]

It was your stove I had in mind when I posted. As far as your burn rate, beauty is seldom cheap. I love your stove and the beautiful post and beam in which it resides.

Thanks. There are actually two of them. I got the lower one, and I was so happy with it, that I sold my Jotul firelight and bought the top one. Great heaters. I just checked all the thermostats, and I was off a bit. It is 76 in the living room, 72 in the basement, 70 in the master bedroom, 80 in the upstairs bedrooms, and 55 in the garage. I leave the garage door to the house open, and they stoves heat that too. All the thermostats are set at least 10 degrees below current temps. I haven't had to use the heating system yet this year. My love of wood stoves combined with my CAD has taken care of my heating bill.

 

[unclemoustache]

My Lopi Answer puts out a max of 66,800 BTU's per hour. I will let you know that Lopi's burn times are exaggerated, as I could not get 8 hours like they claim. With hardwood too. It was more like 4-5 hours at best. (beware, Lopi's are extremely expensive when bought new, we ended up buying ours used) You have to buy the stove and door seperately when buying a Lopi new.

I currently have a Lopi. Not terribly happy with it, and I bought it new. Ugh. I made the mistake of believing the literature the company wrote about their product. But then, as logbutcher says:

You, U.M., are one tough demanding cookie.

Perhaps I ought to start my own stove company? But then the EPA would be down my throat and up my rear 24/7 I suppose. Never mind.

You need the ones with the ash pans, like mine. I heat 5000 square feet exclusively with these two stoves. It is currently about 20 degF outside, and it is 75 in my living room.

Downside is that I have already burned three cords this year.

Now that's nice. I think you posted on another thread about this stove that you hooked up your own external supply air vent.

 

[Rudedog]

Was me, I'd get a big Jotul and never look back.

Yup.