A year ago I posted that I had got hooked up with a tree service that dropped a half dozen logs off at my house when they were in the area. A week ago the foremen stopped at my house and told me they got the job to remove all of the trees on the right away for a street widening project in the town I work in. He said that it will take his crew most of the summer to complete this job. They have a place to haul all of the brush and limbs that is right on my way home from work. It is on private property so it is not open to anyone to cut on. He gave me permission to cut any thing that I wanted off of the piles with the only condition being that if a grapple truck comes in to dump I can't be in the way. I toured the street that is having all of this work done on and would guess about 75% ash with 3 good size oak trees. Just thinking in the back of my mind how much wood I could pile up before fall stopping when ever I can and throw a few on. It would be great to be 3 or 4 years ahead on my wood supply like some of the members of this board. Now my biggest concern is to get a lot better on using a file to sharpen my chain on the saw. I have read most all of the post on this board on chain sharpening and have watched a good number of UTube videos of people showing how it is done. I would like to go on record and say that it is not as easy as the people in the videos make it look. Not sure what I am doing wrong but I don't see a noticeable difference from before to after I file it. Practice makes perfect so I will keep plugging away and as of right now the only way is up.
Another Wood Story
- Thread starter Dogsout
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Dan_IN_MN
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yep....using a file to sharpen is a learned skill! Go over to the chainsaw forum and find the Iowa GTG thread. There is a GTG coming up soon. IMO learning how to file is best learned by doing and then have someone look at it.
If you can't make it to the GTG, post up a few clear pics of your cutters on your chain....we can take a look at them.....
zogger
Tree Freak
Dang, all that easy free wood...keep trying to learn to sharpen better, but just buy a half dozen or so loops of good quality pro chain and keep half of them rotated through the local sawshop for sharpening, and make sure they do the rakers depth gauge as well, or find some place that will. That's cheap man for unlimited free wood like that.
You can practice your filing at night, but when it's time to cut, go cut, and use sharp chain, no matter how it gets and stays sharp!
You can practice your filing at night, but when it's time to cut, go cut, and use sharp chain, no matter how it gets and stays sharp!
Hedgerow
HACK
Do you have a good bench vise?
Swamp Yankee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Congrats on the wood score.
As to the sharpening with a file when I started out in logging on a pulp cutting crew 35+ something years ago, I was the "apprentice" (aka GoFor), to a crusty old gent that for whatever reason took a liking to me. When I asked him to teach me to sharpen a chain I started with all same questions I read here on the forums, what file, what angle, how deep, how many swipes, etc. etc. His reply which made a huge amount of sense, and one that I have never seen posted though I may have missed it, was simply, "learn what a sharp chain looks like and how it feels in the cut and the rest will come." He then gave me a chain he had sharpened and told me to study it, and refer to it as I sharpened. Look at the differences between what I was doing and what he had done, and after a fashion I would be able to sharpen not based upon angles and depths but by eye and the knowledge what a sharp file maintained chain is supposed to look like.
The point of this long winded story is simply this, it matters not how much you practice filing until you know what the end result of the sharpened cutting tooth is supposed to look like. Without this knowledge, you're simply randomly removing metal. So the first thing I suggest is ask the foreman of that tree crew, assuming he is capable, if he would hand file a chain for you so you can take it home and use it as a reference while you practice. A jig such as a Granberg may make it easier for you to be consistent and teach your hands the feel developing muscle memory of sharpening.
I have always found that employing a simple file holder is a great help too. It just makes hanging onto the file in a consistent manner easier and keeps your hands from cramping up especially on the long chains.
Take Care
As to the sharpening with a file when I started out in logging on a pulp cutting crew 35+ something years ago, I was the "apprentice" (aka GoFor), to a crusty old gent that for whatever reason took a liking to me. When I asked him to teach me to sharpen a chain I started with all same questions I read here on the forums, what file, what angle, how deep, how many swipes, etc. etc. His reply which made a huge amount of sense, and one that I have never seen posted though I may have missed it, was simply, "learn what a sharp chain looks like and how it feels in the cut and the rest will come." He then gave me a chain he had sharpened and told me to study it, and refer to it as I sharpened. Look at the differences between what I was doing and what he had done, and after a fashion I would be able to sharpen not based upon angles and depths but by eye and the knowledge what a sharp file maintained chain is supposed to look like.
The point of this long winded story is simply this, it matters not how much you practice filing until you know what the end result of the sharpened cutting tooth is supposed to look like. Without this knowledge, you're simply randomly removing metal. So the first thing I suggest is ask the foreman of that tree crew, assuming he is capable, if he would hand file a chain for you so you can take it home and use it as a reference while you practice. A jig such as a Granberg may make it easier for you to be consistent and teach your hands the feel developing muscle memory of sharpening.
I have always found that employing a simple file holder is a great help too. It just makes hanging onto the file in a consistent manner easier and keeps your hands from cramping up especially on the long chains.
Take Care
Hedge yes I have a vise in my shop. I have a person that does an excellent job of sharpening my chains now so I in fact do have a good reference to look at. Sounds like a great idea and I will try that the next time I give it a go, thank you. Here is what I think my problem is right or wrong. I see in the videos most of the people sharping from the tail gate of their pickup. Looks simple enough but when I try it the saw moves, I stop in mid stroke because I think that my bevel is off (Tentative), or I just flat don't put the right bevel on it. I know it take time and PRACTICE to be able to do this quick and good! But it is something that I need to learn if I intend to keep feeding my ODW. I can tell you that the file that I bought (Oregon) I quit using the guide right away because I couldn't see the file and that freaked me out. I admit that I am not that good but right now I am down to just the wood handle file which I am sure is for way more experienced cutters then me. My goal if I can figure this out is to use the advice of several board members and touch it up every tank full.
Frank Boyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
You may consider a grinder for the amount of work that you will be doing. Once the chain cuts right it is much easier to touch up when you fuel.
branchbuzzer
Undiagnosed
Filing is pretty simple once you figure out what NOT to do.
Here's what has helped me. I'm not an expert, but I'm a whole lot better than I used to be.
1. Always use a vise, either a bench vise or a stump vise. You need to maintain a straight stroke all the way through, and it's tough to do if the saw rocks around or flexes the bar. Using a vise improved my results dramatically
2. The guide helps keep the file at the proper depth under the cutter, so that you don't square off the front edge or get it too pointy. Make sure the guide's metal is sitting on the top of the cutter - this may mean on a rocked or very dull chain that the file will not even be touching the cutting edge until the base is cut back some. Make sure you are using a guide that matches the file size.
3. Don't try to pull the file too fast. A few slow, straight, level strokes are better than a bunch of fast, wild strokes that round off the corners.
4. Always use sharp files! They are cheap and make the whole process smoother - cut quick and even, no slips, etc. With sharp files, even rocked chains aren't that hard to do.
5. Remember that you not only need to keep the file at the correct angle (L-R) but also level (Up-Down) during the stroke.
6. Use two hands to hold the file. Don't try and "eye it up" from the side, do it from the front of the bar, looking down/over the cutter.
7. As the edge begins to sharpen up, you will feel more resistance in the file as the rough edges/base get removed and the file is in constant contact with the metal of the cutter - i.e. the full curve of the file is in contact.(Hope that makes sense the way I described it). I also look down on the edge and watch the "shiny" dull edge get removed as it nears sharp - a forehead light helps to see the edge.
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Fuzly
ArboristSite Operative
Good advice here, but I do it a little differently than most. I tried it at the recommendation of the instructor at a GOL basic class I took several years back. I put a leather glove on my left hand and hold the saw straight up sitting on it's rear handle with the bar up. I liked it because, as others have said, seeing what you are doing is important. And, to sharpen the other side, I simply flip the saw around. That way I sharpen both sides with my dominant right hand. That really improved my consistency, and on a good day I can noodle on the crosscut.
EXCALIBER
ArboristSite Guru
Hmm... how far is Iowa from Nebraska??? Can't be that far I'm thinking!
timbrjackrussel
ArboristSite Guru
That much wood!! I think it would justify a new saw, at least a MS660 or similar. You will be short of time not wood.
Manyhobies has a great idea--come to an Iowa GTG. Look up Iowa Spring GTG II on the chainsaw forum and try to come. There will be a lot of ideas on sharpening that you can learn and overall they are a great time. Our farm where the GTG will be is located between Marshalltown and Cedar Rapids, would sure like you to make it , Dogsout. Any question-feel free to ask. Where in Iowa are you?
Ron
Ron
Ron I check out your thread in the chainsaw forum and it looks to be a really good time. Unfortunately the date is right in the middle of the spring down at the place I work at. (It last 3 weeks and all 10 to 12 hour days.) I live north of Iowa Falls and work at the soybean crush plant in town. I appreciate all of the suggestions and have a couple that I will try. Who ever posted about turning the saw so that you can use your dominant hand on both sides made a very good point. Anyway I will keep plugging away and the only way is up. Thanks again.
I learned to file a chain while out in the woods--no vise, no file guide and usually with the saw on the ground.
Your practice makes perfect is the right idea. To file on the tailgate, viseless, I put my bar pad/scabbard under the bar. The scabbard is a sleeping pad cut and ductaped to the right size. The best non-vise was a rotted out in the center wheel chock block. Anyway, those will keep the chain from moving while filing.
I don't know if my chains are done correctly. I do know that afterwards, chunks are being thrown in my face and the saw is cutting well.
I use the logger suggested method for rakers. I "hit" them a couple times with a flat file on every third chain sharpening. The trouble is remembering if it is the third time or not.
Your practice makes perfect is the right idea. To file on the tailgate, viseless, I put my bar pad/scabbard under the bar. The scabbard is a sleeping pad cut and ductaped to the right size. The best non-vise was a rotted out in the center wheel chock block. Anyway, those will keep the chain from moving while filing.
I don't know if my chains are done correctly. I do know that afterwards, chunks are being thrown in my face and the saw is cutting well.
I use the logger suggested method for rakers. I "hit" them a couple times with a flat file on every third chain sharpening. The trouble is remembering if it is the third time or not.
Preston
Addicted to ArboristSite
After reading this thread now I'm lead to believe the marks on the file holder may or may not be right. Is that so? That's what I've always gone by. For years I've filed my chains down to almost 3/16 tooth left and filed by those lines. Now what. How about studying a new chain. I supposed they would have to be correct. That depth guide is something I know nothing about.
owbguy
ArboristSite Operative
out of curiosity, anyone have a good power grinder they recommend? Baileys has a bunch. I've never used one, but often wondered whether I should. Check here: Bailey's - Chainsaw Chain Grinders
Sharpening Tools
Sorry to hear you can't make it to the GTG, but I understand, you have to work when they beckon. I can recommend two different sharpeners that I have experience with. One is the Husqvarna roller guide. The instructions that are with it leave something to be desired, but I think there are videos of it in use on Husqvarna's website or youtube. The other one is a File-O-Plate. I think the File-O-Plate is made by Carlton and is simple to use once you understand it. Both of these guides allow you to see your file while working, a feature I like better than the Oregon-type guides that clamp on your file. The File-O-Plates I have work only on non-safety chains -- not sure if they make models that will work with safety chains. You probably can find vids of both of these in action through google or some other search engine. Good luck on the sharpening.
Ron
Sorry to hear you can't make it to the GTG, but I understand, you have to work when they beckon. I can recommend two different sharpeners that I have experience with. One is the Husqvarna roller guide. The instructions that are with it leave something to be desired, but I think there are videos of it in use on Husqvarna's website or youtube. The other one is a File-O-Plate. I think the File-O-Plate is made by Carlton and is simple to use once you understand it. Both of these guides allow you to see your file while working, a feature I like better than the Oregon-type guides that clamp on your file. The File-O-Plates I have work only on non-safety chains -- not sure if they make models that will work with safety chains. You probably can find vids of both of these in action through google or some other search engine. Good luck on the sharpening.
Ron
Thought I was the only idiot who couldn't figure out the damn Husky file!
Eecho
ArboristSite Operative
Just pick up a granberg
They take all the guess work out . You can see what the files doing , they are hard to beat . I use mine on brand new chains they work that good . When you set the depth of the file in the chain theres a dial that raises it for perfect cutting across a tooth . Just set the file bottom to where it barely brushes the top of the tie straps while pushing the file and it brings chain out to razor sharp.
They take all the guess work out . You can see what the files doing , they are hard to beat . I use mine on brand new chains they work that good . When you set the depth of the file in the chain theres a dial that raises it for perfect cutting across a tooth . Just set the file bottom to where it barely brushes the top of the tie straps while pushing the file and it brings chain out to razor sharp.
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