Another woodstove in a fireplace question

[woodchopper]

My BIL just gave me a "Warner" woodstove with a blower that he had installed in his fireplace. I'm not sure if I can use the accessories that came with it. I don't want to disable {cut out} the current damper assembly just in case we ever want to go back to using the fireplace. Here's a picture. I know it's a little dirty but I'll worry about that later. The pieces on top are to enclose the long piece in the next picture. The rest of the mounting hardware is in the plastic bag.

Here's a picture of some of the mounting hardware. The long flexible piece standing up would work perfectly if I was willing to cut out the damper assembly. I'm thinking now that I might use one of those flexible {round} sleeves that goes all the way to the top of the chimney from the back of the stove. Only problem is where the current damper is it's only 5" and I'm not sure how securely it's in there. My BIL says part of it will lift off giving me more room. If I have enough room for the flexible sleeve I should be all set. If I'm short 1/2" to 1 1/2" can I buy a reducer or adapter to make this work? I'd really like to improve what I have now. Anything is more efficient than a fireplace. Any suggestions ? What would you do ??

Here's a picture of my Hearthstone "Heritage" which I plan to install in this fireplace next year if this stove doesn't work out. Should heat well but I don't even know if it'll fit yet.

 

[Mike Van]

The damper plate should just lift right out of the fireplace? Yours won't? The latch/catch on the bottom just has a pin through it, then lift the plate & cock it sideways, it should come down through the steel frame. Or is the frame too small?

 

[trek5900]

I have used a fireplace insert for over 10 years. It came with the house when I bought it in 1998. The insert heats 1776 square feet very well until the outside temp drops below 20 degrees.

I did replace the insert that came with the house. When I took out the old insert to replace it with the newer insert I noticed the damper had been broken out.
I had professionals install the newer insert along with the stainless liner that had been used with the older insert. It did not cost very much for them to do that and I had peace of mind. The insert and stainless liner have been working very well for the last 9 years.

Wish you the best with this project.

My wife and I have enjoyed the warmth our insert has provided us over the years.

 

[coog]

My BIL just gave me a "Warner" woodstove with a blower that he had installed in his fireplace. I'm not sure if I can use the accessories that came with it. I don't want to disable {cut out} the current damper assembly just in case we ever want to go back to using the fireplace. Here's a picture. I know it's a little dirty but I'll worry about that later. The pieces on top are to enclose the long piece in the next picture. The rest of the mounting hardware is in the plastic bag.

Here's a picture of some of the mounting hardware. The long flexible piece standing up would work perfectly if I was willing to cut out the damper assembly. I'm thinking now that I might use one of those flexible {round} sleeves that goes all the way to the top of the chimney from the back of the stove. Only problem is where the current damper is it's only 5" and I'm not sure how securely it's in there. My BIL says part of it will lift off giving me more room. If I have enough room for the flexible sleeve I should be all set. If I'm short 1/2" to 1 1/2" can I buy a reducer or adapter to make this work? I'd really like to improve what I have now. Anything is more efficient than a fireplace. Any suggestions ? What would you do ??

Here's a picture of my Hearthstone "Heritage" which I plan to install in this fireplace next year if this stove doesn't work out. Should heat well but I don't even know if it'll fit yet.

You are on the right track, now.I think if you follow Mike's advise the damper will come right out.The liner you are looking for will "ovalize" enough to fit through the 5" opening and continue through the rest of the chimney.That piece that you have really does you no good.Pretty as that Hearthstone is (and ugly as that Warner is) I'd put it front and center and put the hard-working Warner in the other location.

 

[woodchopper]

Thanks everybody for taking the time to help me out. This new Warner just became the fifth woodstove I own. I honestly know very little about woodstove applications within a fireplace. My BIL came over yesterday and looked up at my damper assembly. He seems to think that after you lift the damper assembly and pull it out there will still be something in the way that needs to be cut away. Unfortunately because of my lack of knowledge of these installations I'm not sure what that part is called. It has to something to do with the control that opens and closes the damper. Might be the same thing Mike said was held together by a pin ?
coog, you said the piece I should have will ovalize enough to fit through a 5" opening. The piece I have is 6" and ovalized and it looks like it'll fit once we remove the damper assembly. My BIL said it won't come straight down because something needs to be cut out of the way. It will however come down off to the side but then we'd have mounting to the stove problems. What would you suggest we use instead coog ? I'm more than willing to listen because all this is new to me.
We won't be able to tell anything until we pull that damper out and take a better measurement. I really hope I don't have to go the flexible pipe all the way up the chimney route. I noticed this morning that when the chimney was built they mortared the cap into place. That'll be another thing to mess with if we have to go that route.
As far as the Hearthstone we'd like to go that route in the spring but as you can see in the picture it exhaust from the top. Not sure if it'll fit into the fireplace as it's pretty tall. Plus it has a side and a front door for feeding wood. If we have to slide it in the fireplace it looks like we might lose the use of the side door which we use the most.
One way or another I'm really hoping I can get this stove up and running in the very near future. Getting this stove operational will give me another excuse to cut more wood a year. Thanks for all the help and if you think of anything else I should know about please let me know.

 

[coog]

I can't visualize what would be left after you remove the damper.It seems any control mechanism would also have a pin for removal, since that is probably how it was installed.Maybe you can get a pic?The top exit may be a problem.My Jotul sit in front of the hearth and not in it, so the side door is accessible.If you decide to use the Warner, you really should try to go with something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Chimney-Liner-Kit-6-Inch-X20-Ft-NEW-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ360122304615QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item360122304615&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

The piece you have will only get the smoke into the area of the chimney where it will cool the fastest and create creosote.I wouldn't worry about the cap as long as you have one.It would be easier to have a removable one for cleaning, but you can do that from the bottom.Hope this helps.A lot of times we end up with a lot of pieces that are hard to turn into a working system.

 

[woodchopper]

coog, I've been looking at those kits today on other sites. If I do use one of those I'll have to rip off the top cap that is there now and redo the mortar unless there's a way to install that kit without removing the cap. Is there a way ? . Can I redo the mortar if it's below freezing ? If you think I can do this below freezing I'm sure it's the safer of the two installs. I don't mind spending an extra $300 because I'll be able to clean everything alot easier. I'll try to get that damper assembly out and I'll get some measurements and snap a picture for you. Thanks for the help.

 

[coog]

Sorry, I hadn't thought about the install.Maybe this would work if you drop a line down the chimney and pull the liner up:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eufa_-YdnD4

That cap will come off easily enough with a hammer and chisel.You could re-affix it temporarily with a little silicon and get it in the Summer.
Keep us posted.

 

[woodchopper]

Sorry, I hadn't thought about the install.Maybe this would work if you drop a line down the chimney and pull the liner up:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eufa_-YdnD4

That cap will come off easily enough with a hammer and chisel.You could re-affix it temporarily with a little silicon and get it in the Summer.
Keep us posted.

The total height of my chimney is 15'. Do I need an insulated SS flexible pipe kit in a chimney that short? I've seen a couple manufactures have you insulate their kits before you install them. I'll measure later to be sure but if my flue is 8" should I get a 7" kit to ease the install? I think I'll take your advice and only temporarily put the cap back on. I can't wait to get started on this project. My wife and I have wanted a woodstove in our house since we got married.

 

[coog]

I've used both insulated and not.The non-insulated was over 30 feet, but I was using an EPA stove and got very little creosote.I can't imagine insulation would cost much, but the bigger question is will you have room.I think that old Warner has an 8" flu.I would think you could reduce it to 6" in light of the fact that it will draw so much better with the liner.Ask one of the liner companies.If you can go from 8" to 7" that would probably be better.You will want a tee at the stove end.

 

[woodchopper]

I wasn't aware having a liner would make it draw better. This is getting more interesting by the minute. One of the companies I found while doing research today included the insulation for the liner for free. Because my chimney is so short I won't worry about it. I'm going to try and either order or buy it locally this weekend and install it sometime next week as long as the temps are above 35. I'll take some pictures. Again, thanks for all the advice.

 

[woodchopper]

Looks like I'll be getting this; http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=251 unless I find another one online that's as good as quality for less money. $350 for just the liner or $440 for the complete kit. I haven't measured the gap where the damper is yet but everybody I've talked with so far has said to stick with an 8" size because that's what the stove is. This place can also get it to my house in only 3 days which even the local shops can't do. I'll post pictures when it's installed.

 

[coog]

Given that you are using it to vent a free stove, you are doing pretty well.
Now get a good coat of paint on that old Warner and snap a couple of pics.Probably a good time to replace the rope gaskets on the doors, too.

 

[woodchopper]

Can't wait to get everything hooked up. Good advice on the paint and rope. Not sure what the wife will think when we fire it up the first time and the new paint stinks. She's happy that we're hooking it up though.

 

[Zodiac45]

I can't visualize what would be left after you remove the damper
http://cgi.ebay.com/Chimney-Liner-Kit-6-Inch-X20-Ft-NEW-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ360122304615QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item360122304615&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

Given that you are using it to vent a free stove, you are doing pretty well.
Now get a good coat of paint on that old Warner and snap a couple of pics.Probably a good time to replace the rope gaskets on the doors, too.

It could be the hitch in the fireplace that allows something too fall down the chimney and not into the hearth?
When I installed my Jotul (flued up the chimney) my BIL (pipe fitter) got me a piece of heavy steel same size as the the old damper plates I removed and cut a hole in the center for the flex flu too fit through. Works great and seals off quite well. You will definately get a better draft with the flex flu kit than you'd have had with the chimney only.
+1 on the paint job. That old Warner is a beast and will look good after a sandblast or equiv and a nice coat of hi temp flat black. They toss some heat! Good Luck.

 

[woodchopper]

+1 on the paint job. That old Warner is a beast and will look good after a sandblast or equiv and a nice coat of hi temp flat black. They toss some heat! Good Luck.

I've got to hit a local stove shop for some replacement fire bricks so I'll buy some stove polish and rope at the same time. I'm going to have to ovaltize the last 3' of that liner to get it through the damper area down to the stove. I'm going to use an old furniture clamp to turn it round again after I get it in place so it'll hook up to the stove. A little work but when I get it done it'll be worth everything I put into it.
I'm wondering if this style Warner will put out as much as the one I have in Maine. I can't run the blower on that one because it'll heat you right out of the house.

 

[coog]

It looks like it will hold about half a rick at a fill. There is no substitute for cubic inches