Another woodworking Q

[Haywire Haywood]

I'm know I'm treating this milling forum like a woodworking forum, but it's sorta kinda on topic.... isn't it?

How can I extend the fence on my router table to help it function better as a jointer? It's a whopping 28" at the moment. Something easily detachable would be best as I'm a bit cramped for space. I thought about bolting some 1x boards to it but I would think they would flex. What do ya think? --Ian

 

[dustytools]

I'm know I'm treating this milling forum like a woodworking forum, but it's sorta kinda on topic.... isn't it?

How can I extend the fence on my router table to help it function better as a jointer? It's a whopping 28" at the moment. Something easily detachable would be best as I'm a bit cramped for space. I thought about bolting some 1x boards to it but I would think they would flex. What do ya think? --Ian

Ian, I could round up some more of the aluminum frames that my milling rails are made from. It should be easy enough to fasten to your existing fence, heck you might even be able to figure out a way to make a replacement fence out of it to use on the longer applications.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Yea, that just might work. See what you can come up with. I might have to make a trip up your way pretty soon.

Ian

 

[dustytools]

Yea, that just might work. See what you can come up with. I might have to make a trip up your way pretty soon.

Ian

Ill be in Florence working tomorrow and the glass crew will be there as well. Ill see if they can hook me up.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Thanks -- Ian

 

[zopi]

I would also look at an extension table..infeed and outfeed..

 

[woodshop]

I'm know I'm treating this milling forum like a woodworking forum, but it's sorta kinda on topic.... isn't it?...

Hey, we're talkin' wood here... so yup, IMHO, it is indeed "kinda" on topic.

I solved a similar problem a while back with a solid 6/4 hunk of quartersawn yellow pine. It's hard, very strait and stays that way. It won't twist up or move with the weather. When I need a longer fence I just clamp it to the existing fence. As was said though, building a longer infeed/outfeed table is also needed for more control of your wood on that little table.

 

[stonykill]

Hey, we're talkin' wood here... so yup, IMHO, it is indeed "kinda" on topic.

I solved a similar problem a while back with a solid 6/4 hunk of quartersawn yellow pine. It's hard, very strait and stays that way. It won't twist up or move with the weather. When I need a longer fence I just clamp it to the existing fence. As was said though, building a longer infeed/outfeed table is also needed for more control of your wood on that little table.

did the same some time ago with a straight piece of birch. Also if you have a good tablesaw( thinking you don't yet) the best router tables are built as an extention of the tablesaw. Then you just use the tablesaw fence as your router table fence.

 

[jdboy9]

I made up a jig to run boards through my planer and it actually works really well. I have the the dewalt lugabout and it leaves a really nice finish. The hardest part was building a jig that held the boards perpendicular to the blades, had a problem at first with them tilting causing an angled edge. I haven't tried it on my larger planer but I would imagine it would work on that too.

 

[woodshop]

I made up a jig to run boards through my planer and it actually works really well. I have the the dewalt lugabout and it leaves a really nice finish. The hardest part was building a jig that held the boards perpendicular to the blades, had a problem at first with them tilting causing an angled edge. I haven't tried it on my larger planer but I would imagine it would work on that too.

If the board is at least 4/4 or 6/4 and reasonabley flat to begin with, you can get a pretty flat finished board without using a jointer first, by running it through the planer, flipping the board over every pass and not taking very much off each pass. However, if the board is twisted, you need one flat side first (jointer), or the planer will just thickness the board, but it will keep that twist throughout the board. Unless you're a big production shop, most woodworking shops only have a 6 or 8" jointer, not a 12 or 16" you would need, thus if that board you milled dries with even a moderate twist, you often end up ripping that nice 14"wide board into an 8 and a 6 inch wide, to fit your jointer for those initial passes to get one flat side. As jboy did though, there are plans out there to make a sled to set your twisted rough milled board on, that will hold the board as you run it through the planer to get that first flat side. American Woodworker mag had plans for one year or so ago. I designed my own, but it's still on graph paper. Then once you have one planned dead flat side, it's ready for the planer to thickness that wide board. That way you are only limited to the size of your planer, usually at least 12 inches.

If you have all day long, and have the skill (I certainly don't) and patience (I certainly don't) you can do it the old fashioned way with a thousand bucks worth of hand planes and a pair of winding sticks.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=53276&cat=1,41182 if you need a reason to spend money you don't have too!
If that's your thing... more power too ya.

 

[stonykill]

If the board is at least 4/4 or 6/4 and reasonabley flat to begin with, you can get a pretty flat finished board without using a jointer first, by running it through the planer, flipping the board over every pass and not taking very much off each pass. However, if the board is twisted, you need one flat side first (jointer), or the planer will just thickness the board, but it will keep that twist throughout the board. Unless you're a big production shop, most woodworking shops only have a 6 or 8" jointer, not a 12 or 16" you would need, thus if that board you milled dries with even a moderate twist, you often end up ripping that nice 14"wide board into an 8 and a 6 inch wide, to fit your jointer for those initial passes to get one flat side. As jboy did though, there are plans out there to make a sled to set your twisted rough milled board on, that will hold the board as you run it through the planer to get that first flat side. American Woodworker mag had plans for one year or so ago. I designed my own, but it's still on graph paper. Then once you have one planned dead flat side, it's ready for the planer to thickness that wide board. That way you are only limited to the size of your planer, usually at least 12 inches.

If you have all day long, and have the skill (I certainly don't) and patience (I certainly don't) you can do it the old fashioned way with a thousand bucks worth of hand planes and a pair of winding sticks.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=53276&cat=1,41182 if you need a reason to spend money you don't have too!
If that's your thing... more power too ya.

yes, that will work if the wood meets the requirements woodshop stated. I do it all the time on wood I've milled and dried myself. The best I mill for this process is birch. If milled flat, it drys flat, everytime. I should meantion I never mill wood thinner that 1 1/4.

$1000 of hand planes.....nahhh. Tag sales. I've got all the planes I need for less than $200. You can substitute good straight hardwood (maple, birch, mahogany all good choices) for winding sticks.


If I have a twisted board, I'll usually quickly handplane out the twist, then run it through the planer. I've found that its usually quicker to break out a handplane and do a little manual labor than it is too set up a jig, set the router up right, flatten the board, then set it up all over again for the next board. I also find it quicker to use an antique moulding plane for a short piece of moulding than it is to set up the router, and router table, make multiple passes, ahhhhhhhhhh. Give me hand tools for that stuff. With just a little practice, a handplane can save you hours of jig building, setting up your jointer, wear on expensive router bits, not to meantion that god awful belt sanding. Pass me the hand plane

 

[Haywire Haywood]

LOL... my hand plane is the best chinese steel that Harbor Freight carries. I played with it a couple times and then put it back in the box. It's probably a block of rust by now.

Ian

 

[stonykill]

LOL... my hand plane is the best chinese steel that Harbor Freight carries. I played with it a couple times and then put it back in the box. It's probably a block of rust by now.

Ian

well there is your problem right there. Cheap crap, not built to be used. Not sure what you paid, but used planes around here, even in an antique shop are rarely more than $25.

 

[woodshop]

Don't get me wrong... I own several hand planes and use them often, especially my handy little STANLEY Block Plane No. 9-1/2, good more most general cleaning up work like sides and edges of small drawers etc. Unlike stonykill though, I don't have the skill or patience for even rough hand planing a twisted board. Thus I'm going to build my version of that sled that will give me that dead flat initial side on long wide boards. I know it's a pain in the butt to set up, but I guess we each have our levels of what we are willing to tolerate in the interests of avoiding other things.

Yes winding sticks are as simple as any two strait pieces of scrap wood, they don't even have to be the exact same thickness or width. I actually use a couple of 1 inch aluminum angle pieces when I want to check how flat a board is. They are light and stay true.

 

[stonykill]

Don't get me wrong... I own several hand planes and use them often, especially my handy little STANLEY Block Plane No. 9-1/2, good more most general cleaning up work like sides and edges of small drawers etc. Unlike stonykill though, I don't have the skill or patience for even rough hand planing a twisted board. Thus I'm going to build my version of that sled that will give me that dead flat initial side on long wide boards. I know it's a pain in the butt to set up, but I guess we each have our levels of what we are willing to tolerate in the interests of avoiding other things.

Yes winding sticks are as simple as any two strait pieces of scrap wood, they don't even have to be the exact same thickness or width. I actually use a couple of 1 inch aluminum angle pieces when I want to check how flat a board is. They are light and stay true.

afterall you are the "Jig"guy.

As I've stated before, talk to 6 different woodworkers, and you'll get 6 different answers as to how to do the same job.

When I need to get something done, I look around the shop as to what tools are available, and figure out the fastest, SAFEST, way to do it. As I'm sure, or hope (the safe part) we all do

 

[BobL]

As I've stated before, talk to 6 different woodworkers, and you'll get 6 different answers as to how to do the same job.

When I need to get something done, I look around the shop as to what tools are available, and figure out the fastest, SAFEST, way to do it. As I'm sure, or hope (the safe part) we all do

For me it's also time of day and day in the week. With neighbours on 3 sides just yards away from my shed, after 7 pm and on sunday mornings, except for the drill press, I restrict myself to hand tools. Sometimes I wait till the next day and use power tools but I sometimes thicknessed small boards or blocks using hand planes. My fave working hand plane is this one.

 

[woodshop]

LOL... my hand plane is the best chinese steel that Harbor Freight carries. I played with it a couple times and then put it back in the box. It's probably a block of rust by now.
Ian

Two blocks planes... one is $4.99, the other is $44.99... you can get both razor sharp but one fits your hand like a glove and will clean up dovetails all day long... the other looks and feels like it was designed by an 8 year old and it gets dull as soon as you hit a little tough grain. I don't need to tell you which one is which.

 

[woodshop]

For me it's also time of day and day in the week. With neighbours on 3 sides just yards away from my shed, after 7 pm and on sunday mornings, except for the drill press, I restrict myself to hand tools. Sometimes I wait till the next day and use power tools but I sometimes thicknessed small boards or blocks using hand planes. My fave working hand plane is this one.

I also try not to make too much noise OUTSIDE of the house certain times of day... no milling at 3AM. Even in my shop (basement of house) I have a few restrictions certain times on how much noise I can make.

That's a beautiful looking jack plane in that link... notice they show it planing down some serious curly maple. Reminds me of these truck commercials where they have their vehicle climbing mount Everest or some such nonsense.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Something tells me that AS needs a woodworking sub-forum to Milling & Saw Mills.

Ian

 

[zopi]

Something tells me that AS needs a woodworking sub-forum to Milling & Saw Mills.

Ian

dah. and maybe timberframing....