any cord king owners here?

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Steel,

When I was logging I had a CTR slasher hooked to the yard crane. It used the same 3/4 pitch 11BC chain as I now use with the Multitek. When I was in pine I could go as much as 100,000 BF before I needed sharpening. I didn't need any convincing as to the ability of the chain to handle the conditions.
But if your wood has caked on dry, gravel or frozen dirt then there is little doubt a carbide saw is the way to go. Plus, if thats the machine you have then that's what you get!
I was under the impression there was a lot of logging and pulp wood operations going on in Mich. But then if you have to buy the wood it may drive you out of the local market. I have to compete against that " free wood" thing myself. Just cover a much bigger delivery area and target certain residential areas to offset the lost sales from the back yard wood dealers.

Well, off to the wood pile. Have to start working up 250 cord for the fall sales. Couple weeks work if I set my mind to it.
 
computers and child proff pill caps are alota like,..they can be hard to figure out until you ask the kidds to help, go figure,.. pill caps,.I would love to get CLEAN FREE WOOD,...problem where I live not much loggin goin on but some free wood If you look for it ,... no gurantees and no promisses and NO clean wood,.. for the most part,.. I have had so called clean wood and still seamed like 2 much chain maintence for so called clean wood,..And I know there aint no such thing as a maintence free cutter,..replacable carbide tipped saw blades are not cheep but vary long lasting,. the cord king uses a die grinder,/ hand held air tool, to keep there edges sharp,..Iam impressed/ jellious, that your chains are lasting that long,.. Thanks Eric, Am I doing somthing wrong?...
steel,the cord king costs more but when you get all your wood winter cut+clean that machine is so cheap to run its great, i have not sharpened the new carbide blade i just put on'er and i'm just passing the 500+ cords of 16" wood.sound like multi-teck & cord king are the best made its a toss up i guess on witch one to go with


william
 
I have seen a couple of multiteks in operation first hand. They are great machines, no doubt about it. Of all the processors, cord king and multitek are by far the leaders. It's basically just a matter of circular vs. bar, and also a matter of infeed method. The grapple system on the multiteks work awesome even on crooked logs. By the way how does the cord king do with crooked logs A100HVA? You said you got that machine in the 80's????
 
I have seen a couple of multiteks in operation first hand. They are great machines, no doubt about it. Of all the processors, cord king and multitek are by far the leaders. It's basically just a matter of circular vs. bar, and also a matter of infeed method. The grapple system on the multiteks work awesome even on crooked logs. By the way how does the cord king do with crooked logs A100HVA? You said you got that machine in the 80's????
Hi ben, i found that if i load 1 crooked log at a time directly into the infeed it works great,not on the deck 'cause it sometimes does not land in the correct position for travel or sawing. and yup i got'er in 1986....still going strong too!
worth every penny!!!!!
 
Cord King

A 100,..Wood you tell me about your last post,? Iam wondering about the I juct changed the blade,?.. do you mean the whole blade or the insertes,?..If you change the whole blade what was wrong with the orignal,?.. Iam thinkin circular is the way to go for me , Iam lookin for a blade with carbide insertes, can you give me any advise as to what I should look for, stay away from , costs , after 20 plus years of running a cord king wood you change anything about the design/the way you opperate it,... good and bad ,....How much horse power is your machine,? I wood appreciate any tips , as Iam drawing plans to build one, Thanks Eric
 
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A 100,..Wood you tell me about your last post,? Iam wondering about the I juct changed the blade,?.. do you mean the whole blade or the insertes,?..If you change the whole blade what was wrong with the orignal,?.. Iam thinkin circular is the way to go for me , Iam lookin for a blade with carbide insertes, can you give me any advise as to what I should look for, stay away from , costs , after 20 plus years of running a cord king wood you change anything about the design/the way you opperate it,... good and bad ,....How much horse power is your machine,? I wood appreciate any tips , as Iam drawing plans to build one, Thanks Eric
steel,the original blade had tool steel inserts and needed sharpening at about every15-20 cords plus they were a pita to change so after about 20 years of that, the mfg sold me a new blade.i have not sharpened it yet. i like my style machine compared to new machines in that mine has no seat,no cage around operator,and is electric over hydraulic controls.which i guess they don't make anymore.the new ones have joy stick control with trigger,seat,cage.if you use the seat they supply,of course you sit but really you should stand 'cause you will be upright to turn wood that is sawed off but lands wrong.if sitting you will not correct the problem. i found i was always gettin' up to correct wood so i removed the seat 'cause it was in the way and then noticed i had a lot less jam-ups and more room to move.
the motor is a JD 4239.i think the basic design of the machine is good. i guess that maybe some of the long term owners like my self have modified their machines to over come inherited flaws that the mfg don't know or think about which i have done to mine.but when you get your machine set up right on the right surface like i did and get all the bugs out, and know how to load the wood correctly with the right wood. i now can saw 2-300 cords and just change the oil- no sharpenin'-and greasing every 40hrs. its just a real economical machine to own. but it took a long time to figure out and get there,about 3000hrs!now its:rockn:
 
A 100

THANK YOU FOR YOUR REPLY,... you said It took along time to figure out ,...do you mean to run, or modify some of the opperation,.or your thoughts about the design, Also you said you liked the electric over hydraulic valves do you mean,. as opposed to manual,..thats a good thing as I have 10 times more elec over hyd than manual,..I did a test tonight on tool steel and found out the given,.. when I took a file to a dril bit did;nt hardly scratch the surface,... my chain saw blades file quite easily,.. as you know you cant touch carbide If you dont have a green wheel or diamond cutter ,.thank you for all the imput,...Eric
 
well for a 48" carbide insert blade it is around $2500-$2800 depending on the number of teeth and the tips. when I specc'd out my 36" blade 32 teeth with 0.404 Hollow point inserts it was $1880 before tax and another set of tips was like $350 for just the carbide tips!! I am going to wait a little while til I can modify my current configuration and go from a 28" blade to a 36" so I can handle 14" logs instead of the 10" right now on my saw
 
THANK YOU FOR YOUR REPLY,... you said It took along time to figure out ,...do you mean to run, or modify some of the opperation,.or your thoughts about the design, Also you said you liked the electric over hydraulic valves do you mean,. as opposed to manual,..thats a good thing as I have 10 times more elec over hyd than manual,..I did a test tonight on tool steel and found out the given,.. when I took a file to a dril bit did;nt hardly scratch the surface,... my chain saw blades file quite easily,.. as you know you cant touch carbide If you dont have a green wheel or diamond cutter ,.thank you for all the imput,...Eric
it took long time run,not too long to modify,long time to figure out how to modify.electric over hyd. better than manual,switches easier to change than valve handles and are more comfortable
 
Mr FireWood

Can You give me a price on a 48 in / 60 in Dia blade I want 2 build a 20 in plus processor,...I appreciacte your help,..Iam assuming these blades have replaciable tips,?...Thank you for your reply,...Eric
 
Mr FireWood

Can You give me a price on a 48 in-60 in Dia blade I want 2 build a 20 in plus processor,...I appreciacte your help,..Iam assuming these blades have replaciable tips,?...Thank you for your reply,...Eric
 
bump in thread about cordking owners: how "we" doin' out there?

just passed the 1,476 cord mark on new carbide blade , no sharpen yet! did change original bits at 1,100+ mark due to hitting bolt in tree.so total now 2,576

wood getting harder and harder to find every year. pulp mills rule. then it's the firewood guy,when the mill pulls the carpet on'em
 
How many gallons of fuel do you burn per cord?

Couple guys around here run the Cord Kings and they say 7-10 gals an hr. That sound about right?
 
I was sort of wondering just to compare to a bar saw machine.
My Blockbuster burns about a gallon a cord.

One thing I have wondered, what is the kerf of the circle saw?
 
I know I am inferior for owning a CRD but I bought my machine this past new years eve and have put around 100 cords through it so far. I am lagging because of supply as well. I love the slasher saw blade! It does make a pretty big cut but you cannot beat the speed and no need to sharpen if you stay away from mud, rock, an steel. I am still trying to get a good figure on "fuel mileage". I am getting roughly 2 tri-axles (12-13 full cords) through the machine on 20 gallons. I may sound stupid but it is much much easier to run it now that the weather is above freezing. I suppose everything has to be a struggle when its 10 below....loco 4.jpeg
 
I know I am inferior for owning a CRD but I bought my machine this past new years eve and have put around 100 cords through it so far. I am lagging because of supply as well. I love the slasher saw blade! It does make a pretty big cut but you cannot beat the speed and no need to sharpen if you stay away from mud, rock, an steel. I am still trying to get a good figure on "fuel mileage". I am getting roughly 2 tri-axles (12-13 full cords) through the machine on 20 gallons. I may sound stupid but it is much much easier to run it now that the weather is above freezing. I suppose everything has to be a struggle when its 10 below....View attachment 424273

shamusturbo, nice machine you got there! the first winter i got my machine i ran it daily stockpiling split wood.by the next winter i had learned not to stockpile wood,and when the first snow comes shut'er down and wait 'till spring to get'er going again.
got any more pic's of your operation?
 
I hear ya! I will definitely stop producing this coming winter. I am trying like heck to get my stockpile up now so there is plenty of wood to go around.....


wood lot.jpg driveway.jpg
wood lot 2.jpg wood crates.jpg
 
I run year round.

Some folks might think it's nuts to work outside all day when it's -15* but it's not bad if you dress decently.

I put a 1500w heating pad on the hydraulic tank, plus 1" foam all around it.

Not too much trouble getting logs, but we do the logging, hauling, and firewood.
 

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