Any help installing a wood burning stove would be appreciated

[anymanusa]

Comments, prices/ing, or concerns would be appreciated.

I've owned my home for almost two years and wanted wood burning capability for the whole time, in fact I almost didn't buy the house because the lack of a fireplace, but the deal was great, so I bought it.

Now it's time to make some plans for installing stovepipe. I've been to websites that go over planning and whats needed, but no prices where shown, and I haven't been able to locate a dealer anywhere close yet.

Here's what I have; 14' ceiling, following the pitch of the roof. It's angled, but not too steep. I don't know the pitch yet. I have hardwood floors in the main room that I want to install the stove.

I'm mainly interested in details about going through the ceiling/roof, and how much my stovepipe and installation will cost. I will do the work.

Thanks.

Here is a pic of the interior room where I'll place the stove. Ceiling is flat in the middle and on the sides it is right against the roofline.

 

[HeX0rz]

Well, just the other day I was at a local store checking on prices for pipe. Depending on budget, you can get into it deep very quickly just on pipe.

Internet MAY be a better deal, but I have not checked. Anyways, local store here was selling double wall pipe 6" diameter and 36" long at about $100 a pop. Needless to say, I'm gonna hate having to bite the bullet when I put my wood stove in.

You will need a hearth for the floor and something for the wall as well. Depending on your stove you need to maintain clearances to combustibles.

Going through walls or ceilings requires thimbles and when you get to the roof you need to be a certain height above the roof. Proper bracings, etc.

Make sure that wherever the exhaust goes, you have an adequate distance from trees and the likes or you will be having a nice time heating the outside of your house as well.

For just the pipe and things of the like I would put money on it you will be looking at about $1500 in pipe and the likes. Hearths and whatnot vary.

 

[anymanusa]

thanks. I've been reading that the piping would be expensive. I'm just dreading the whole "make a hole in your roof" part. I just want to make sure I get it right.

 

[HeX0rz]

Making the hole in the ceiling is not so bad as it is when you get into the attic and play around with all your insulation!

If you have ANY construction background or of the likes, it should not be such a hassle for you to be able to center up your pipe with your stoves exhaust to the ceiling.

IF you absolutely have no idea how to figure that out, go out to your local hardware store and buy a laser level.(Like this one: http://www.contractor-books.com/CB/David_White/Mark4PB.htm)

You can get your hole DEAD on with that puppy.

 

[Toddppm]

When I bought my woodstove it came with specific directions on how to install including going through the roof. Pretty easy to do. Search som manuf. sites and you should find something or your local building inspectors office might have something. You should only need single wall pipe until you get to the ceiling.

 

[gpsman007]

my set up is not that different than yours

Here is a pic
<a href="http://s496.photobucket.com/albums/rr330/stonehunter007/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_0551.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr330/stonehunter007/IMG_0551.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[sachsmo]

Menards had the SuperVent double wall stainless @ $61 for 6"x36".

They have pretty much everything else to complete the installation, caps,cathedral ceiling box, etc., etc.

Me thinks more like $400-$500 for your pipe, could be less.

mo

 

[anymanusa]

When I bought my woodstove it came with specific directions on how to install including going through the roof. Pretty easy to do. Search som manuf. sites and you should find something or your local building inspectors office might have something. You should only need single wall pipe until you get to the ceiling.

thanks for bringing that to my attention! I didn't think about that.

 

[anymanusa]

Making the hole in the ceiling is not so bad as it is when you get into the attic and play around with all your insulation!

If you have ANY construction background or of the likes, it should not be such a hassle for you to be able to center up your pipe with your stoves exhaust to the ceiling.

IF you absolutely have no idea how to figure that out, go out to your local hardware store and buy a laser level.(Like this one: http://www.contractor-books.com/CB/David_White/Mark4PB.htm)

You can get your hole DEAD on with that puppy.

the ceiling isn't what I'm worried about, nor the attic, it's messing with the shingles on the roof. Thanks for the reply.

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

You should only need single wall pipe until you get to the ceiling.

thanks for bringing that to my attention! I didn't think about that.

You'll gain a lot of heat for your house from the single-wall chimney. You WANT that heat loss from the flue inside your house. You want double wall to keep the heat IN the flue to protect your attic and keep the flue hot once the chimney leaves the heated interior and goes into the cold attic and outdoors. This is to prevent creosote buildup.


Chimney is not the place to cut corners! Neither is heat shielding for your interior walls and floor.



Enjoy!

 

[pook]

the ceiling isn't what I'm worried about, nor the attic, it's messing with the shingles on the roof. Thanks for the reply.

if u have a plumbing vent on the roof, lokk at it= the mounts of both plumbing & chimni "boots" will interact similarly with the shingles.

 

[logbutcher]

As others have said, plan the install first, and never do it on the cheap for the flue. A simple plumb bob from the ceiling sets the exact pipe location. Check the framing and roof first. You'll need to "box in" the flue support.

Single walled pipe is fine .But, that very slight extra heat from a single wall, uninsulated pipe is wasted, with or without a ceiling fan. You want the flue to stay hot.

I've always had good installs with Selkirk Metalbestos systems. We did a 2 story "cathedral" through the roof with their Roof Support Package, standard double walled SS insulated pipe, and, to the stove, their double "telescoping" pipe that makes a vertical install simple. Cuts back considerably on your combustable distances. It is pricey, but worth the piece of mind. Since we built ourselves, the local lumber/hardware dealer gave us an contactor/internet price on the flue system. Check it out.

The SS Selkirk looks elegant in and out.

 

[cassandrasdaddy]

looks like about a 12/12c pitch to roof for a homeowner i recommend these
http://www.google.com/products/cata...og_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CDsQ8wIwAg#
on a section of ladder to let you work safely

where in the south? i did mine way back and just made sure to pull a permit and get inspected to keep insurance happy

 

[Axe Man]

Depending on where you go through the ceiling ( on the angle or the flat ) you can buy kits for flat or vaulted ceilings. Here in New Brunswick they run about $160 for the kit. The straight pipe here is $85 for 3 feet of 6" double walled pipe. You will need an attic insulation shield for $45 and roof flashing for where the pipe exits the roof. I think thats about $45 too.Installation instructions are included with all these products. Also you will need to know the side, front and rear clearances for your stove, so you might want to pick up a stove first so you can plan your hearth to accomodate it. I just finished doing mine so if I can do it anyone can. Good Luck!

 

[CrappieKeith]

As others have said, plan the install first, and never do it on the cheap for the flue. A simple plumb bob from the ceiling sets the exact pipe location. Check the framing and roof first. You'll need to "box in" the flue support.

Single walled pipe is fine .But, that very slight extra heat from a single wall, uninsulated pipe is wasted, with or without a ceiling fan. You want the flue to stay hot.

I've always had good installs with Selkirk Metalbestos systems. We did a 2 story "cathedral" through the roof with their Roof Support Package, standard double walled SS insulated pipe, and, to the stove, their double "telescoping" pipe that makes a vertical install simple. Cuts back considerably on your combustable distances. It is pricey, but worth the piece of mind. Since we built ourselves, the local lumber/hardware dealer gave us an contactor/internet price on the flue system. Check it out.

The SS Selkirk looks elegant in and out.

I've got agree....the heat from the flue is minimal especially if you have a decent stove.Saftey should come 1st.
Any of the better flue compainies have exactly what you'll need like LogButcher says.
Selkirk,Hart & Cooley or Simpson's Dura Vent would be who I'd shop out.
We offer Simpson's at 30% off of retail if that helps any.

The flue is truely the engine that drives the wood burner.
Done correctly and you'll really reap on your investment for many years to come.

 

[anymanusa]

thanks for the replies. North Alabama Cassandrasdaddy.

I'm going to look at a wood stove fireplace insert tom. at noon. I'm thinking now that I'm just going to build a sheetmetal box around the insert, leaving two 6 or 8" duct flanges out the backside, and brick it up all around and leave this device on my patio.

That way I'll just block in a window and have a 'hot air circulator'. Two ducts going from the window to the heat recovery box. No going up through the chimney, no double wall anything, I'll just use a fan to get a little heat off the insert, and have everything out on the patio out back. This will be sufficient, I think. I'll waste a lot of the heat to the outdoors, but this is what I'm going to do this season, I'll see how well it works out.

 

[anymanusa]

Hell man you should have started this thread in the 'Joke and funny picture' forum!

lol!

there won't be anything funny about the installation. Just a well preserved new house without a hole in the ceiling if I decide to sell in a few years.:angry2:

 

[rmihalek]

thanks for the replies. North Alabama Cassandrasdaddy.

I'm going to look at a wood stove fireplace insert tom. at noon. I'm thinking now that I'm just going to build a sheetmetal box around the insert, leaving two 6 or 8" duct flanges out the backside, and brick it up all around and leave this device on my patio.

That way I'll just block in a window and have a 'hot air circulator'. Two ducts going from the window to the heat recovery box. No going up through the chimney, no double wall anything, I'll just use a fan to get a little heat off the insert, and have everything out on the patio out back. This will be sufficient, I think. I'll waste a lot of the heat to the outdoors, but this is what I'm going to do this season, I'll see how well it works out.

You'll lose probably 80 or 90% of the heat to the outdoors that way, plus if it's cold and raining at night will you want to go out and load the stove if it's out on the patio? What about the ambiance of the fire itself? You probably won't be inclined to pull up a nice chair near the heat ducts, grab a book and do some reading. With the stove in the house, it can become a focal point for relaxing, not to mention drying wet boots, gloves, jackets, etc.

As you said, you almost didn't buy the house because there was no stove. A major reason I wanted to buy my house was a previous owner built a nice brick hearth and did a great installation on the stove- it was a big positive for me when my wife and I were searching for a home.

 

[anymanusa]

You'll lose probably 80 or 90% of the heat to the outdoors that way, plus if it's cold and raining at night will you want to go out and load the stove if it's out on the patio? What about the ambiance of the fire itself? You probably won't be inclined to pull up a nice chair near the heat ducts, grab a book and do some reading. With the stove in the house, it can become a focal point for relaxing, not to mention drying wet boots, gloves, jackets, etc.

As you said, you almost didn't buy the house because there was no stove. A major reason I wanted to buy my house was a previous owner built a nice brick hearth and did a great installation on the stove- it was a big positive for me when my wife and I were searching for a home.

I don't think it will be 80-90% loss, remember, I'm going to build a box around the stove, and pull heat from all the exterior, except the flue. Yeah, I know about the 'ambiance' and whatnot, I'm just thinking I'll take it one step at a time right now. I've got access to metric tons of free wood, and I spend a lot of time on the patio anyway, which I'm making plans to cover right now too. It won't hurt my feelings to have a firebox on the back patio. It'll be several steps closer and much more functional than my fire pit currently is.

Thanks

 

[anymanusa]

So I went and picked this sweet little deal up from a craiglist posting yesterday. Now im back to an inside installation. I think im going to make a steel pipe stool about four feet tall for it. Its a fireplace insert. A 1980 model Buck stove. I think its beautiful.