Any ideas for this splitter???

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rider93hawg

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I reposted this here at someone's suggestion because it was in Homeowner's Forum where I did get some great help but, would like any other input before I start the tear down/rebuild :

First off Hello! and wish I would've found this site BEFORE I started to rebuild an old wood splitter but, now it is too late. I am in for around a grand so there is no turning back. I got the thing splitting after all new parts only to have the blade slide break off. (Cylinder, valve, pump, and hoses.) Now I want to build a MONSTER SPLITTER if I can't sell it. I was thinking about switching out the 3" I-Beam for 6" and then buying a blade with attached slide all one unit type. Also toying with the idea of putting a 10 HP engine on it. I burn wood full on all winter because of my love for the utility company. Actually, I do run around and clean up their cutting jobs. I am splitting wood that can be 12-20" across. Any ideas about how to go about this would be appreciated beyond telling me to quit while I am ahead and go buy a new one. I already know that! Thanks.
 
Take it to a good welding shop

I would just beef it up a bit and use it til it breaks something major..
Then cut your losses and buy a new one for under 1k
 
If you are thinking about getting one of the northern tool splitter kits and a 6" beam to make a nice splitter go for it. You could make a new slide if you want, just make sure it is long enough to guide well on the beam.

What size cylinder did you buy? With the size of wood you are talking I would think a 4" cylinder would be plenty. You have to use some strategy to split some nasty pieces but I split a lot of wood with a ~16ton splitter with a 45° triangle wedge (no compound).

Good luck in getting it going.

Don
 
got a question, where is the hydraulic fluid tank?

got a comment, you may need to replace a few fittings. From the pics it appears that you're using regular black or galvanized pipe fittings on the suction and pressure lines. They will be fine on the suction lines but somebody is going to get hurt if you leave them on the pressure lines.

Now, head to the scrap yard and pick up a new beam. You've already got the expensive components, no reason to quit now.
 
Thanks for the replies. I got a 4" cylinder with 24" Stroke. The hydraulic tank is in the axle as I think it is an old tractor set up of some sort. I will get the hydraulic fittings. The local farm supply sells a blade w/attached welded slide for about $160. This seems kind of high to me since Northern Tool sells the blade itself for $40 shipping included. I already have the blade but, don't want another crazy weld break accident waiting to happen either. What do you think? I'll take some more pics so you will have a better understanding. One more question for now and that is when I pull the rope on the Briggs it does not catch at all any more-what do I need to do? Spring and rope are new and so is fly wheel key.
 
I built my splitter on a 6-inch I beam and I can tell you they aren't all the same. Had some bugs to work out at first like a bypassing cylinder, but now the weak link seems to be my I beam. After I really get mine in a bind a few times, I have to beat it back flat as it tries to roll the outside edges upward. Honestly, that beam could have been in a fire at some time and it does have some minor pitting. Whatever, I have it's replacement that will go on the next rainy day I have off, and it's a lot beefier than the first one. I think the one I'm having trouble with is a little less than or right at 1/4 inch. So dont skimp on the I beam. Perhaps someone reading your post could steer you toward what is considered to be the minimum gauge of the metal. By the way, I like that flywheel. I almost used a smaller one on the front of my log pusher. Good luck!
 
pressure regulator,

I cant tell from the photos, Hopefully its on the back side, But if your control valve dosent have a bypass valve built in you should put one in the system, Before all HELL breakes loose, If you dont stall the engine somthings gonna break, Maybe, the pump,.
 
By pass valve is on the back. Pelhamjeff go over to the homeowner's section and check out the pics Rowan posted on what to use for a rail instead of an
I-beam. I got me a year old 20 Ton Yardmachines splitter w/5 HP Briggs yesterday. I had to drive 2 hours to buy it but after I got there the guy said since the drive was so long he would only charge me $600 instead of the $650 we had agreed on. What a blessing! Now I only have 2k in 3 splitter investments and one works great. Got two days of 45 and sunny before the super cold comes again, so I have to get to work >ing.
 
It is hard to tell from the pics what the dimensions are for the wedge and slide. The wedge looks a bit tall while the slide looks short. The longer the slide is compared to the height of the wedge or cylinder mounted push plate the less strain on the slide and the beam due to binding forces.
 
The beam may only be 3 inches wide but it looks to be a least 6 inches tall and has thick flanges . The beam should be adequate for a 4 inch cylinder.

What is needed is a longer slide and welds that have some penetration. All fittings on the high pressure sides of the pump,valve, and cylinder have to be 3000# rated hydraulic fittings. Black or galvanized pipe fittings are rated for less than 300# max.. The use of improper fittings can lead to rupture causing serious injury or death.
 
Is it safe to use a 4-way when the blade is on the ram end?

NO!

Make sure your 4 way wedge can be removed easily. A lot of wood does not split easily 4 way. Mine is from Northern and is about 15 years old. It lifts off to convert to two way and I do remove it quite often when splitting big rounds that had limb attachments.

Correct, the 4 way is only used on some wood. Even if it is most of the time, its not all the time, but it should never be on the ram end.

Now, why do you have it set up that way? You only put the wedge on the ram end when you are splitting Vertical & Horizontal. Since your going to do some welding anyway, Switch that! You will put less pressure on the beam edges and ram as well. Now, once you get the wedge on the back of the beam where it belongs, you should find splitting easier and you can add a simple slide over 4 way wedge. Best to have it in advance before you put a wedge on that won't work with the 4 way.

Next thing is a table grate and then log lift and your all set. I see no reason changing out the beam unless you bent it. Once it bends, upgrade then.
 
I layed awake last night till 4am scheming plans for a super wedge to put on the end of my splitter. A foot or so high and 6-8" wide at the back. Rebar skeleton with heavy guage steel for the skin. I have no idea if it would even work but, that never stop me before as you can see from my first splitter pic. This site has ruined me.
 
Someone just offered me $400 cash for the thing, should I take it? I already have two boats, Harley, and two crazy Labs. Yes, I am still married!
 
Someone just offered me $400 cash for the thing, should I take it? I already have two boats, Harley, and two crazy Labs. Yes, I am still married!

She must love you for the Harley, the dogs she could win in a divorce!

Here's my ride
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I wrote back and said I would take $500 as I spent that last week in parts. If he doesn't want it for that, then I'll just add it to the projects list. Could use the $ but, also am starting to love the idea of building SPLITENSTEIN. The 21 Ton YM I bought For $600 is killer as I split a cord yesterday with it. Busted stuff 20" across by 24" tall no problem! LNG if the wife boots me, she will make sure "YOUR" dogs go with me!
 
NO KIDDING. I had more trouble with my three Labs this divorce than I had with the kids in the first one. BUT,Got to keep the saw and the wood burner no questions either time?????
 

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