xander9727
The Silverback
It may look cool but it still has all of the limitations of a small carbide large pocket set up. You can see through it but it won't cut much faster.
Any Way to Improve Stump Grinder Performance?
- Thread starter beaverb01
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jonseredbred
ArboristSite Operative
what are those limitations?
xander9727
The Silverback
Parasitic drag due to the large cross section of the pockets compared to the the relatively small cross section of the cutter. The thin small carbide that is easily destroyed or rendered useless by obstacles. The increased difficulty associated with changing pocket style cutters. Increased mass which makes recovery times slower and impact damage to cutters greater. To name a few.
I have a few more but I don't want to appear like a dinosaur hater.
I have a few more but I don't want to appear like a dinosaur hater.
stumpy66
ArboristSite Operative
It looks ok if you just wanted to pimp your grinder.....i could imagine the wheel in chrome with anodised red teeth..... the 352 in a candy pearl......with strip lights underneath.......and mean 5 spoke black alloys for rims..........
( i need to get out more!!)
( i need to get out more!!)
stevieb
ArboristSite Operative
I just tried for the first time a diamond wheel for my 115mm grinder. Allow's me to sharpen the teeth on the machine. Works just fine and takes about 20 mins at the end of the day just to put an edge back on. This should keep my teeth sharper and extend there life. Better then a green wheel!!!
stihlgotwood
ArboristSite Lurker
Good Question
I am seeking the same answers as Duffer. I have a Rayco 1631 (31hp Vangaurd) I use rayco superteeth now and when replacing whole set costs about $380 all said and done (canadian) I think to switch to green teeth would be close to same at first but would pay off in end with only having to buy the teeth after and no pockets. Didn't see to much talk of these....or am i blind.
Maybee you can give me some info-how long are teeth lasting,what were you using before, is it more cost effective,performance with rocks.
Duffer just want to let you know, somewhere in this section there was talk of this company (Demott-tool.com) who resharpens teeth for very fair price-i thought. Hope info is correct.
thanx for all the help
I am seeking the same answers as Duffer. I have a Rayco 1631 (31hp Vangaurd) I use rayco superteeth now and when replacing whole set costs about $380 all said and done (canadian) I think to switch to green teeth would be close to same at first but would pay off in end with only having to buy the teeth after and no pockets. Didn't see to much talk of these....or am i blind.
Maybee you can give me some info-how long are teeth lasting,what were you using before, is it more cost effective,performance with rocks.
Duffer just want to let you know, somewhere in this section there was talk of this company (Demott-tool.com) who resharpens teeth for very fair price-i thought. Hope info is correct.
thanx for all the help
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Tim Krause
ArboristSite Member
green teeth on small machine
we have a carlton 2500-4. we put green teeth on it and it made a big difference. much easier to change and have three cutting edges. grinds alot faster than stock.
we have a carlton 2500-4. we put green teeth on it and it made a big difference. much easier to change and have three cutting edges. grinds alot faster than stock.
Duradisk
I put a duradisk on my old Carlton 2300 and have been very pleased with the performance improvement. So far, I have cut about 40 stumps (pine and gum) without seeing any need for sharpening. Plus, the disk will take bites of up to about 2 inches at a time. These improvements plus the time saved on grinding should pay for the wheel in a short time. The cost was $1400 with spare teeth and pockets, including shipping. The teeth can be turned to provide a fresh edge, and can probably be sharpened on the machine when the time comes for that. I have found that my machine seems to run better (not work so hard) with the new disk and the vibration is probably half or less than stock.
Beaver
I put a duradisk on my old Carlton 2300 and have been very pleased with the performance improvement. So far, I have cut about 40 stumps (pine and gum) without seeing any need for sharpening. Plus, the disk will take bites of up to about 2 inches at a time. These improvements plus the time saved on grinding should pay for the wheel in a short time. The cost was $1400 with spare teeth and pockets, including shipping. The teeth can be turned to provide a fresh edge, and can probably be sharpened on the machine when the time comes for that. I have found that my machine seems to run better (not work so hard) with the new disk and the vibration is probably half or less than stock.
Beaver
stihlgotwood
ArboristSite Lurker
what kind of hp do these carltons have
Just wondering how big these carlton machines are-2500-4 and 2300. Are they self propelled? My Rayco is self-prop. and 31 hp.
Just wondering how big these carlton machines are-2500-4 and 2300. Are they self propelled? My Rayco is self-prop. and 31 hp.
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Carlton 2300
This machine is four wheeled and self propelled, only 23 hp. It was owned by a landscaper/irrigation service prior to my purchase. The guy thought the teeth on the cutter wheel were supposed to all be at the same height (distance) from the edge of the wheel rather than set up based on distance from the pocket to the edge of the cutter. This combined with several other engine tuning problems made it a real dog to grind with. I still am looking forward to fitting this frame with a larger engine, maybe a Briggs 35hp. Briggs is not my first choice, but seems to be the highest torque/hp rating I can locate that will bolt to the chassis without major pita.
Anyone have any experience with the Briggs 35's???
Beaver
This machine is four wheeled and self propelled, only 23 hp. It was owned by a landscaper/irrigation service prior to my purchase. The guy thought the teeth on the cutter wheel were supposed to all be at the same height (distance) from the edge of the wheel rather than set up based on distance from the pocket to the edge of the cutter. This combined with several other engine tuning problems made it a real dog to grind with. I still am looking forward to fitting this frame with a larger engine, maybe a Briggs 35hp. Briggs is not my first choice, but seems to be the highest torque/hp rating I can locate that will bolt to the chassis without major pita.
Anyone have any experience with the Briggs 35's???
Beaver
