Are the yellow carving chains as safe as a normal green 1/4?

[user 188535]

Want to make sure when I start my carving it is not a

 

[ZinTrees]

I personally dont notice any difference whatsoever on the kickback between green and yellow chain
dont use the top corner of the bar tip and you will be fine, yellow chain cuts smoother and faster as well, better end result than green on every aspect ive noticed

 

[KostasVolos]

I may be mistaken :

-From what I'm aware of ,carving
chainsaws are lightweight small chainsaws usually around 30cc or less.Kickback from such small engine is not like the kickback from chainsaws with a 60cc engine or bigger.
In real life ,even if it occurs ,
the energy of the kickback from
a 30cc or less chainsaw is counterweighted by the weight of the chainsaw alone .

I use mainly the Stihl MS170 and MS180 for cutting family's firewood from standing trees to nice fat rolls to be splitted.
Some chestnut trees up to 60cm (24")diameter ,some local oak up to 40 (16") cm dia. and plenty of strawberry trees up to 30cm (12") dia.
The same saws are used
at my landscaping business.
Guess ,I treat these cheap chainsaws like they were pro level ones ,that's why they usually last about 2-3 years each.I use 3/8" LP 0.50 semi chisel ( carlton and stihl chains ) and quite a few times had kickback occurring !
But, the inertia from the chainsaw alone absorbed most of the energy in all cases.
The brake did not engage even once.The bars used ( 14" & 16" ) lifted just few inches and that was the whole kickback thing ,from 30cc chainsaws.

-Carving bars are pretty short most of times and usually with a really small radius tip.
Both variables are counteracting kickbacks.

-A 1/4" chain has a lot less potential to "bite" ,than say a .325" or a 3/8" chain.

...Now ,if you're carving with your face just few inches behind the bar,all of the above mean absolutely nothin'...

 

[satotaltreeservice]

Green chains slower cutting speed that that reduce the risk. But yellow chains are also made with safety considerations. So, it is safe as green chain.

 

[capetrees]

Green chains slower cutting speed that that reduce the risk. But yellow chains are also made with safety considerations. So, it is safe as green chain.

From the Stihl website;

"ANSI B175.1 Chain Saw Kickback Standard
STIHL’s green and yellow color code system serves to identify STIHL bars and chains with different kickback reduction characteristics. Green (go) marks those products which are designed to reduce the risk of kickback injury and comply with the ANSI B175.1 kickback standard. STIHL’s low-kickback chain features a green tie strap that identifies each loop as “low-kickback” chain that meets the ANSI standard. Recommended for both the experienced and inexperienced chainsaw user. Yellow (caution) marks products with increased risk of kickback injury. They are for use only by persons with extraordinary cutting needs and experience and specialized training in dealing with kickback conditions."

14 and probably not that strong in the arms just yet (not poking at you, just saying), stay with the green for now and keep it sharp.

 

[user 188535]

From the Stihl website;

"ANSI B175.1 Chain Saw Kickback Standard
STIHL’s green and yellow color code system serves to identify STIHL bars and chains with different kickback reduction characteristics. Green (go) marks those products which are designed to reduce the risk of kickback injury and comply with the ANSI B175.1 kickback standard. STIHL’s low-kickback chain features a green tie strap that identifies each loop as “low-kickback” chain that meets the ANSI standard. Recommended for both the experienced and inexperienced chainsaw user. Yellow (caution) marks products with increased risk of kickback injury. They are for use only by persons with extraordinary cutting needs and experience and specialized training in dealing with kickback conditions."

14 and probably not that strong in the arms just yet (not poking at you, just saying), stay with the green for now and keep it sharp.

This is an old thread, I bought the 1/4 Picco carving bar and chain for my MS 194 C-E rear handle carving saw. I will also be putting a 10-inch 1/4 Picco bar and chain on it to get rid of the crappy Oregon setup.

 

[Franny K]

This is an old thread, I bought the 1/4 Picco carving bar and chain for my MS 194 C-E rear handle carving saw. I will also be putting a 10-inch 1/4 Picco bar and chain on it to get rid of the crappy Oregon setup.

Let's make sure you are using the term Picco correctly.

It is my impression that Stihl carving chain is similar to the 13RM but with clipped tails of the cutter so it does not rub the wood going around a dime nose bar. (this is the rms you picture in post 1 code 3661 as of the date the attachment is from) Picco Stihl in 1/4" pitch is 71 class not 13 class all I see is a single rivet nose bar on the farther saw in the picture. If you study Stihl literature you will kind of come to the conclusion that just like 3/8 normal vs 3/8 picco the 1/4 13class uses different sprockets than the 71 class which is designated picco. There is a 9 tooth 1/4 inch (drive) sprocket for that saw from Makita and an 8 tooth one from Husky that will work with a shim but these are for the 13 class Stihl and 25 class Oregon. 0.050 gauge. Husky and Oregon have mini .325 chain types where Stihl has the 71 class mini 1/4. 0.043

Edit the sprocket comments pertain to the single battery one and may or may not also pertain to the double battery one.

 

[user 188535]

Let's make sure you are using the term Picco correctly.

It is my impression that Stihl carving chain is similar to the 13RM but with clipped tails of the cutter so it does not rub the wood going around a dime nose bar. (this is the rms you picture in post 1 code 3661 as of the date the attachment is from) Picco Stihl in 1/4" pitch is 71 class not 13 class all I see is a single rivet nose bar on the farther saw in the picture. If you study Stihl literature you will kind of come to the conclusion that just like 3/8 normal vs 3/8 picco the 1/4 13class uses different sprockets than the 71 class which is designated picco. There is a 9 tooth 1/4 inch (drive) sprocket for that saw from Makita and an 8 tooth one from Husky that will work with a shim but these are for the 13 class Stihl and 25 class Oregon. 0.050 gauge. Husky and Oregon have mini .325 chain types where Stihl has the 71 class mini 1/4. 0.043

Edit the sprocket comments pertain to the single battery one and may or may not also pertain to the double battery one.

The Makita will NOT be for carving.