Axe restoration thread

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Lol
I've got a couple dozen heads (or more) that I have to haft , lots of db's .
They're not all pretty but almost a dozen were given to me .
With life and so many other projects on the go eating up any spare time I think that I've done 1 hatchet since September .

Soon ...
 
I've seen a few really nice axes at my honey whole auction, but another collector has been out bidding me on every thing. I talked to him when he out bid me on a beautiful Kelly. He said he bought out a big collection back in the summer, 1200 axes for $10,000. He said that they have kept him busy selling them, so I guess he's a flipper, not a collector. I passed this little Norlund last week because it was in the last row of the last building, my dog gets fed at 4, and it was 430, and they don't start the last building till 7. So, I just let it go.
 
I have been working on putting a handle on one of my Jersey pattern heads. It seemed to have a larger (longer) eye than most of the handles available in stores, big box and hardware, locally, but I found one sitting around the place that my son apparently left. I'm not sure what it came off of, but it looked like it might fit the eye of this Jersey better. After fitting it, no, it doesn't fill the eye any better, but I'll go with it for now. I don't do pictures often enough to remember how to post them; maybe it's easier from the phone directly.

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Okay, these are the pictures. I have to put in a wedge and sharpen the axe and add more boiled linseed oil. I might have given the other Jersey to my son; maybe it's still around. I had been looking at a handle meant for a brush axe as having a longer eye profile to fit this Jersey.
 
I guess I'll go ahead and throw this in. Couple days ago.

I carved a little piece of ash and pounded it into the head to fill a gap that was my fault on a rough handle I like. Not only does it fill the gap, it is tapered, and I drove it from the bottom side with the idea there's now two wedges working against each other. No idea how long it'll last. Right now it has an hour of chopping and hasn't moved.


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I've never seen them at a gun show, but have seen lots in antique shops. Usually when some one takes the time and money to set up a table they want way more than I'd pay. But, I'm super cheap, I seldom go over 5-10 bucks with a good handle and a name in the steel. Most antique shops want 25-100 bucks for an ax I'd get at a farm sale for 1-2 bucks. I would definitely look them over if i did see them, never know when you get a deal.
 
I can get axe handles with longer than normal eye portions, it must be a reasonably common british size. I still haven't got round to hanging the 6lb Wetterlings I picked up though as it had a wide eye, about 28mm or 1 and 1/8" and I've not found a handle for it despite a lot of searching. I have however just bought a maul handle (well 3 actually) with a rectangular eye bit, that IS wide enough, although a bit short....half inch or more short. I'm going to try and glue a piece of hardwood on to the back side before I shave it down to fit. How well that works will likely depend on the quality of my woodwork in planning the surfaces flat....it won't work then, hmm...maybe I should screw it.
 
I can get axe handles with longer than normal eye portions, it must be a reasonably common british size. I still haven't got round to hanging the 6lb Wetterlings I picked up though as it had a wide eye, about 28mm or 1 and 1/8" and I've not found a handle for it despite a lot of searching. I have however just bought a maul handle (well 3 actually) with a rectangular eye bit, that IS wide enough, although a bit short....half inch or more short. I'm going to try and glue a piece of hardwood on to the back side before I shave it down to fit. How well that works will likely depend on the quality of my woodwork in planning the surfaces flat....it won't work then, hmm...maybe I should screw it.



Once you glue the piece are you going to cut a kerf through it and then wedge as normal?
 
For shaping the wood on my axe handles to make it fit the head, I just use my bench grinder. It's real easy to remove a little wood and try the fit and then remove a little more till it fits right. A rasp is too time consuming.

Didn't know it was a race but I have been known to use a belt sander once or twice lol
 
I got a little in a hurry today and played with sharpening with a lanskey puck. I really like the handle and the feel of it but the head it pulled up on the handle. How do I reset it? what's the best way to to clean it up? And when sharpening with a puck do I use oil or water or anything on the stone. Sorry for the 20 questions I'm new. Thank you
 
Welcome to the world of firewood. One of the guys that’s smarter than I will come and set ya straight. I have a few of my gramps tools and love using them simply for the relationship factor. Once upon a time, Grandpa used this and now I am too!!CDB42104-B3CC-4AB6-9F08-12503809BB67.jpeg
 
I got a little in a hurry today and played with sharpening with a lanskey puck. I really like the handle and the feel of it but the head it pulled up on the handle. How do I reset it? what's the best way to to clean it up? And when sharpening with a puck do I use oil or water or anything on the stone. Sorry for the 20 questions I'm new. Thank you

I use water and simple green on my stones and a sharp knife at 90* will clean up a haft in a hurry .
 

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