B&S engine and mill questions

[clintb]

Plan on building a band mill and BIL has an old B&S 18hp I/C engine for $200. Anyone here running the old L-head twin engines, if so how would it compare to the new chinese 16hp engines for $300. For band blade tracking, how often do you adjust it? Can it be set by shimming the pillow block bearings on the drive end? On blade tension, would an old car air shock work to set the tension?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Plan on building a band mill and BIL has an old B&S 18hp I/C engine for $200. Anyone here running the old L-head twin engines, if so how would it compare to the new chinese 16hp engines for $300

In this case i think i'd take the Briggs... Those models aren't the greatest engines, but at least you have a "chance" to get parts for it later. I have heard that some of the old designs are getting harder to get parts for though...

DM

 

[sredlin]

I would definitely go with the Briggs

 

[infomet]

Look at pictures, buy some plans.
There is usually a plate that can move, adjusted by some bolts and locknuts.
There is lots of manufacturer literature and there are plans on ebay.

One of the AS members is developing plans and recently posted pics of his home made mill.

 

[Railomatic]

Look at pictures, buy some plans.
There is usually a plate that can move, adjusted by some bolts and locknuts.
There is lots of manufacturer literature and there are plans on ebay.

One of the AS members is developing plans and recently posted pics of his home made mill.

Myself and Gene1605 have been doing some plans of making a band mill, the first stage of those plans are almost done, you can see a snip of them here
at http://www.alaskabandsawmills.com/step_by_step_bandsaw_mill_plans.htm
I'm also thinking of doing some plans of my own CSM's too, if anyone is interested.

 

[Stevensam]

The plan offering from Railomatic and Gene will have some clever ideas built into the mill. I built a stock standard Bill Rakes Simplesaw and if I was going to do it again I would add improvements to the design. That's the best thing about do it yourself. Maybe that's another reason for me to build a new bandmill

I would look at as many websites for homemade plans and buy one or couple of the better ones (there sure are a few out there now).

Also while talking about homemade mills whats the speed and ease of cut of a 4 stroke CSM compared to a larger CSM (90cc+). I have a vertical shaft 17hp briggs to play with.

 

[flht01]

...On blade tension, would an old car air shock work to set the tension?

I just completed a modification to my mill, a Logmaster LM-1, adding a "spring pack" to the tensioning system. Since the thread took place on another site, i'm a little reluctant to link to it. let me know if you have any interest in my particular approach to this manual tensioning system and I'll post a few pictures.

 

[infomet]

Steven and flht, please post links and pics...love 'em!

Air shock should work, but will jump out to full length if blade breaks.
Be sure to relieve pressure before working with blade!\
Design so the shock is near full extension when blade is tight.
Now that I think of it, the shock may not supply enough force.
Check the capacity of the shock against the tension required to make the blade run true...I'm thinking the blade runs at something like 1-2000 lb.
A small hydraulic cylinder pushed by a bolt might be better...like the commercial mills.

 

[redprospector]

When I built my band mill I used a 1600cc VW engine. They are inexpensive, reliable, simple, and parts are available everywhere. That's not to mention the extra HP (har, har, har). I think I wound up with a little over 400 bucks in mine ready to roll.

Andy

 

[infomet]

Do you have a picture showing how you mounted your pulley to the flywheel?

 

[redprospector]

I'll try to get one as soon as I get out to the mill.
Basicly I cut 1/4" plate round to fit the flywheel, had a machine shop mount a shaft centered, bolts up just like a clutch. I had the shaft made long (12" I think) so I could run multiple pullies, so I had to put a carrier bearing on the end of it.

Andy